Chickenman

You may be able to take the breather tube to a Muffler shop and have them expand the tube slightly with a Tapered pipe expander. Problem is finding one small enough.

The following link from " The510Realm " where we were discussing Weber set-ups, but got into Ignition advance set-ups for cammed engines. Covers some of the things I've learnt from Vizard's books and others on Ignition curve tuning. Might be worth a read: http://the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=28635

David Vizard's " Performance with Economy " has an excellent section on Vacuum advance tuning. It is especially important for fuel mileage on a street driven car. Triples make things harder to run Vacuum advance, because of the induction pulsing associated with Independent runners. However, the factory SU's will benefit ( mileage wise ) on the street with a functioning and properly tuned Vacuum advance.

BTW. do physically check the actual stamping numbers on the Centrifugal advance plate . Reman distributors are often a mix and match of parts. You can't trust that they have the proper advance curves ( both mechanical and Vacuum ) for the stamped number on the dizzy. Use a Dizzy testing machine or a dial back timing light on the engine to check the actual figures. Edit: Link to Jason Grays dizzy advance curve page. Has full specs of most Datsun 4 and 6 cylinder Dizzy's from 1968 to 1984: http://web.archive.org/web/20031006100309/http://home.att.net/~jason510/dizzy_specs.htm

I'd keep the current dizzy and just set it up how I want. You can readily adjsut the mechanical adnavce mechanisms and vacuum advance to your engines specific needs. Read Jason Gray's Distributor article. Most Nissan electronic distributors have a fully adjustable Vacuum advance Canister. If it has an Epoxy plug on the end of the vacuum can, you can fully adjust the Vacuum advance. Under the epoxy plug at the end of the Vacuum diaphragm you will find an inner and outer threaded collar that adjusts spring tension and vacuum arm travel length. Shorten the travel until you have about 20 degrees Vacuum advance. Use a Mighty Vac and a Dial Back timing light to adjust. Edit: Link to archive of Jason Gray's dizzy FAQ page: http://web.archive.org/web/20031006095409/http://home.att.net/~jason510/Dizzy_FAQ.htm

Double No..

Here's a picture of the CTS and Thermo Time Bullet connectors. It's easy to swap these around. Car will run pig rich. Bullet connectors must be clean. No corrosion, as must connections at the sensors them selves. Some De-oxit works wonders.

It happens to us all. You get tired, working late and night and you do something goofy. Brush it off and have a good laugh. A wise man once told me. " Mistakes are caused by inexperience. You gain experience by making mistakes ".

Yep, AC Delco Friction Modified trans oil that's what I'm using in both my Audi and my 280Z 5 speed ( 83 ZX NA 5 speed ). Both cars shift like butter now. The AC Delco stuff saved me a rebuild on my Audi transmission. 2nd gear synchro was slightly damaged due to a failed pressure plate. Notchy shifting into 2nd after clutch repleced. Redline MTL, MT90 and Amsoil Manual Trans oil all failed to solve the notchy shifting. The AC Delco stuff did the trick. Solved some notchy shifting on a friends Infinity G35. he couldn't believe the difference it made. Good stuff IMHO.

I just got off the phone with Byron Mestin from " The510Realm ". He's one of our local fabricators and mentioned the same issue. You'll get binding in the suspension on most cars with a Tension Rod located LCA. GM's use a two pivot location method on their LCA's, so it doesn't have that issue. Was just going to post up that it was a bad idea, but you beat me to it. BNIB Beck Arnley front LCA bushings are only $5.67 each from RA, so I've ordered those. Should be good enough for my purposes. JM also mentioned this at the thread on Hybrid Z . So not such a " Hot " idea after all.

Yep. Just pressed in. I'm not sure if it really matters if the Delrin center sleeve spins. The grease groove is 360 degrees. Been a long time ( 1999 ) since I installed them in my Camaro and I sold the car back in 2006. Was a daily driver for me. New owner still has them in with zero issues. Greases them once a year.

Couldn't find them on the site for some reason.

Jai. Just a note on the clutch job. Before installation, compare the height of the old pressure plate and the new one. Datsun uses several different PP heights and the appropriate length clutch bearing collar has to go with the PP. Can't remember if the Exedy kit comes with collar and TO bearing or TP bearing only. Sometimes the aftermarket PP will be a different height but the TO Brg collar is longer/shorter to compensate. It is the overall stack height that matters. I prefer re-using the Nissan collars if possible, as they are originally made out of steel, and most replacements these days are plastic. Don't allow your mechanic to throw out the old metal TO Brg sleeve. Save it for future generations!!. Assuming that the above is OK, you " may " run into a hard to shift problem when you replace the clutch kit. Fear not, This is a quite common problem. If the clutch Master Cylinder is old, it may start bypassing fluid by the internal seals after replacing a clutch kit. The reason being is the the old PP springs get weak over time and as the disc wears. The new PP springs are usually a bit stronger and just the leverage difference with a new disc can put more pressure on the hydraulics. The Clutch Master cylinder then leaks internally past the worn seal lips. The slave cylinders are usually OK. They are originally made out of cast iron and with stand pitting and wear from contamination better than the aluminium Clutch Master Cylinder. Your mechanic should flush the old clutch hydraulic fluid ( Brake fluid ) when he does the clutch job.

I love this style of bushings. Have been using them since the mid-90's on all of my Camaro autocross/hillclimb cars. Many of my competitors also use them These really are a superior bushing for the street. Poly deflects too much and has other issues. Monoballs are fine for dedicated track cars, but tend to transmit too much noise on the street. Plus they do wear out over time. The Del-A-Lum bushings ( Ground Control has them for Domestics and Bimmers ) use a thin Delrin liner which is greasable. Delrin is much stiffer than Poly and is self lubricating. I just got off the phone with a buddy of mine. He just pulled the Del-A-Lum bushings out of his 1981 Trans-Am ( Hillclimb/Autocross/ Track Day car ) . 200,000 km on them and they look like new. Never any issues with squeaking. I've gone from Poly LCA bushings to Del-Alum and the difference in stiffness was noticable. Plus no binding at all in the LCA. Might be a market for these if someone made them for Z cars and 510's. Relatively easy to machine up. I'd certainly buy a set.

Does anyone know who makes Del-A-Lum LCA bushings for Datsun front LCA's. Specifically 240Z-280Z? Not looking for Poly and not looking for Mono-Ball. Specifically want the Del-A-lum style. These are for Third Gen Camaro's, but I want a similar product.

They are calibrated for different flow rates for different engines. But I don't think it really matters a lot on modified cars. Just as long as you are reasonably close. Carbed cars can easily adjust the idle mixture to compensate for a little more or little less flow. PCV operation at idle speed has the most affect on vacuum flow. 280Z/ZX EFI cars sometimes need a bit of tweaking at the air bypass screw on the AFM if a different flowing PCV valve is installed . Modern feed back EFI systems with WB O2 sensors adjust on the Fly. Edit: Different calibrations probably have more to do with emissions control figures than anything else. Those have to be bang on. Just an FYI. A number of big boost Audi and VW engines, at Vortex/VW forum, are now experimenting using Datsun 280ZX Turbo PCV valves. The factory Audi/VW 1.8T OCV system post 2000 is overly complicated with a lot of plastic parts in the PCV system. Including the PCV valve itself. These plastic parts often crack and fail with heat. The 280ZX Turbo PCV valve is nearly indestructible. It can be plumbed into a modified system and works much better than stock. The Turbo PCV valve also has a silicone " flapper seal ". The silicone seal is needed on boosted cars , so as to not pressurize the cranckcase under boost. Under boost, a secondary venting system ( utilizing factory design ) is used that bypasses the PCV valve. So far the 280ZX Turbo PCV valve has worked very well.

Exedy is a good brand of clutch. They are an OEM supplier to many car brands. Daiken is the parent company, have been around for a long time and they make very good products. When my engine was rebuilt the engine builder put in an Exedy OEM clutch kit. I was very pleased when I saw the Daiken manufacturing stamps. You should have no worries there. Edit: Daiken/Exedy clutch plates are a nice upgrade from the factory disc. Ventilated and with better materials than the stock disc. fair amount of metallic particles in the disc. This is good for longevity and they will take a lot of abuse.

The original hose on the 280Z is covered in a type mof heat reflective paint as well. I think the hose may be made os silicone as well, but I'm not sure. I replaced mine with some Hi-Temp re-inforced silicone hose that I got from SiliconeIntakes.com. I use the same type of hose on my Audi 1.8 Turbo engine to replace the PCV hoses that run near the Turbo. Original are rubber and they get brittle and crack. The silicone withstands high temps much better.

A couple of my buddies are buying up used 20 ft and 40 ft shipping containers at Auctions. . Cheaper than renting them...

That's a good place for some of those new " Cold Shock " penetrating sprays. They cool the part down to around -30F, shrinking it breaking the corrosion crystals. Then a very thin wicking penetrate fluid soaks in. CRC makes some. I've had very good success with these products.

Very nice CO. If you do any more of these you may want to try JB Plastic Weld. It's specially formulated for plastics. We use it for slot car chassis repair and making models. It sticks to most plastics much better than regular JB Weld. Haven't tried it on Delrin though... http://www.jbweld.com/products/plasticweld-syringe

The Crane 6300 is a very nice ignition box at a reasonable price. However, it does require some sort of electronic module to drive it. A 123 Ignition internal module will work fine, So will the original 260z/280Z TIU or the Matchbox dizzy module. Points will require an Optical conversion, which can be purchased from Crane and others. . The 6300 box will not trigger directly off a Magnetic Reluctor or Hall Reluctor or Points. A couple of things to clarify. It's not really a low RPM box, It's rated at 8,000 RPM for 6 cylinder engines and 10,000 RPM for 4 cylinders. Crane is very conservative with their ratings, including RPM capability and Compression ratio ratings. The Multi Spark feature is at low RPM's ( below approx 3,000 rpm ) then it changes to a long inductive spark above that. More than enough for most normally aspirated street driven cars IMHO. Big boost Forced induction engines should probably go with the Crane HI-6 6400 CD box. HI-6S 6300 instructions and Tech sheet from Crane http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-6320_.pdf

That lokks awesome. For some reason I think 15's look better on a Z than 16's. What tires are those? You may have just cost me a lot of money!!!

Apparently the P30 engines came with valve reliefs for some reason. Maxima L24's had them: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72440-are-these-parts-stock/ You should be OK though with a stock cam. Valve reliefs aren't needed with a stock cam and some mild cams. However, if a large duration and lift camshaft was put in the owner you may need valve reliefs. My 280Z with F54 Flat Tops and N47 head does not require valve reliefs. It has a .480" lift 280 duration cam... or so I've been told. Don't trust that though. Cam timing figures make a big difference. Stock cam...you should be good. Modded cam... measure twice cut once. Valve reliefs can be machined into the piston if needed. Here is a picture of the factory Ampco FT pistons out of a P30:

Very nice. Be sure to post lots of pictures!!