Chickenman

Was just tuning a Customers car in Portland last night.AFR started going lean for some reason. Race car with Fuel cell and Holley Hydra-Mat. There was like NO fuel showing in the fuel Cell. Just what was absorbed in the Hydra-Mat. Amazing!!!

PS: I can also Remote Tune Haltech.

Jim, although I tune a lot of MS systems. I would seriously suggest you take a good hard look at the Haltech Elite 750. Specifically designed for 6 cylinder motors with 6 Logic coil drivers and 6 Injector drivers capable of driving high or low impedance injectors. You can have Full sequential injection with Direct Fire COP with that Fancy Smancy dizzy thingy. Note: The advertising makes it look like it can only drive low impedance injectors. ( I found that very strange ) , but when you look at the full specs you can see that it also will drive High impedance injectors. That makes more sense, as Hi-Z injectors draw much less current than Low-Z injectors. Overview of Elire 750: https://www.haltech.com/overview-elite-750/ Full specs: HT-150600_PS.pdf

Yep. Fairly common on other cars as well. I believe it has to do with Road Cambers and the fact that the majority of the time the car is only operated by the driver. Then again, I could be wrong with that theory.

Could be something as simple as the Ignition curve that makes the difference. Hard to quantify.

Not going to happen. In reality the damper ( shock ) should never extend fast enough for the spring to come unseated. If you are catching enough air for a long enough period for that to happen.... popping a spring is the last thing you have to worry about. Dukes of Hazard style!! Yeeee Haaawww !!! And a simple and dirt cheap fix. Drill a couple of small holes in the outer lip of the lower spring seat. Use some Heavy Duty Zip Ties to secure the lower coil of the spring to the spring seat. Now it will remain on place and be centered.... always. Used to do this on my Race cars. Not for fear of having a spring jump out of it;s seat over bumps, but for ease of dis-assembly when pulling the suspension apart . About the only way you could Pop a spring is if you are Rallying the car on Race springs. Or trying to play Steve McQueen in Bullitt down the Yumps of San Francisco. That being said. I do not know the MOT standards in France. They may require an Inspection for this type of modification.

Go to any decent Audio shop. They'll probably throw a Filter Capacitor inline with your CB Radio. Ground Loops can be an issue as well.

I'll be in Monterey at the Rolex Vintage races then. So won't be going to the monthly meet. A small group of us are driving down in our Z's. My Z is off the road right now with a bad case of " upgradeitest ". Don't know if I'll have it back together in time. So there may be an Audi interloper in the group. Heading down to the underground parking to work on Z now. It's 5:00 AM and cooler. Frack it's been hot lately. PM me your contact details and I'll do the same.

Elliot000: Are you part of the BC Z Registry? Local Z Club. We meet at Ian's Automotive every third Thursday of the month. We're on Face Book. Lots of Z members locally. Richard Boyk

If it's Pre 1974 get it insured as a " Modified Collector " car much more lenient with when and where you can drive it. The Provincial inspection may also allow for some more leeway in modifications. Check with your chosen Provincial Inspector. He's the one who signs the document and puts his Job License on the line.

Actually, the marker lite delete could be a bigger issue than the heim joints. I had my inspection dome in BC on a car I bought from Ontario. So I know all of the exact details. Be aware . Do NOT take it to Canadian Tire what ever you do. They are idiots. Particularly the one in Port Coquitlam. Take it to a private shop that does Provincial inspections and understands Vintage cars. Unfortunately my guy left. But I used the Petrocan shop off of Austin and Blue Mountain in Coquitlam. Get on some of the racing forums, like SCCBC and REC Scene. and you can find some intelligent inspectors. VCMC forum might be a good spot to check as well. That's where I found my guy. You are always better off dealing with an inspector who is an enthusiast. On VCMC forum. Send " Crazy Canadian " a PM . He may be able to help you. He was the guys who inspected my Modded 280Z and he did a very thorough but fair assessment. His new job site apparently doesn't do Provincial inspections anymore, but he may be able to recommend a good Inspection Facility. Tell him " Chickenman" recommended you to him. Be aware that the Side Marker light delete will get you a fail. Some " other " peoples advice. Do it after the Provincial inspection. The Provincial Inspection is only done once. Again. Avoid Canadian Tire at all costs!!

All I can say is... " Welcome to my nightmare " . LOL. I talked to my local Parts supplier and he says that the problem of Calipers with mismatched parts is becoming worse and worse. He had to order six sets of calipers from four different Vendors to get the correct ones for a Chrysler PT Cruiser. Good Luck keep at it. I'm still farting about with my E-Brake brackets. I'll report back on those once I get caught up on the other big projects that I decided to do all at once.

I ran my 1976 280Z with no AC pressure switch for over a year with no issues. Just jumpered the harness terminals.

What AP racing has to say about Silicone brake fluids. http://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?InfoID=49&ProductID=3717

Motul RBF 600 is an excellent brake fluid for track days or Road racing. Probably over kill for the street. I use WilWood 570 in my street cars. mainly because a local supplier sells it dirt cheap, and it's more than sufficient for Track days. Note that DOT 5.1 ( Synthetic ) is completely different from DOT 5.0 ( Silicone ). In fact, DOT really messed up with their naming convention. Synthetics should have been in a class all by them selves. DOT 6.0 for example. Silicones are good for Vintage cars or cars in storage for a long time. They are NOT good for cars used in any competition. They are more viscous than DOT 3,4 and 5.1. This causes them to form air bubbles under repeated hard applications. And the bubbles will not disperse easily. Silicone fluids cannot be used in cars with ABS because of the thicker viscosity and the pumping action of the ABS Hydraulics will cause air bubbles to form. Stop Tech has a good article on Brake Fluids: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid And a large number of Technical White Papers on Braking systems in general. Well worth a read: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers Edit: Stop Tech used to have a good article on the differences between DOT 5.0 and DOT 5.1. But I can't seem to find it now. However, here is a quick reference chart: http://www.advancepetro.com/differentbrakefluid.htm

I'll see what I can do . Mind you, at the pace I move it may be another 3 to 4 years till I get around to it. Bedroom parts stash got too big and I finally had to start installing things..

^ Yeah. I sent Z-Car depot an e-mail on these E-brake bracket issues about a week ago. So far have received no reply from them . I also purchased the original Caliper conversion brackets from Z-CarDepot. To there credit. Z-Car depot gave me a heads up on the Maxima caliper issues. After I called them via phone due to fitment issues. Turns out the adapter brackets are the same for both the 256mm and 289 mm conversion adapters. It's the Maxima caliper frames that are different. No where is this information readily available. That information would have been help full from the start. They mentioned that they had been running into this issue more and more often in the last 6 months or so. Seems there is a shortage of the cores with the large frames, and the Remanufacturers are just throwing anything they have on them. Nice quality control. Full disclosure. If I had bought there complete kit I would likely have had no issues, with the Caliper mounting brackets. ( E-Brake brackets would still have been an issue ) . But I purchased the Rotors and Calipers separately, thinking I could save some money. And initially I did. Turns out that plan back fired with the caliper frame problems. Personally, I think it's time to switch to a different make of caliper and conversion bracket design, that is easier to get and less problematic. The Ford rear calipers are plentiful. As are GM PBR aluminium calipers. These are super easy to get, have a better Pad selection and include a built in park brake. They also are designed for bigger rotors. The larger pads last longer and cover the complete surface of the rotor. . I will probably be switching to GM PBR calipers a little later down the road. I'll get my machinist friend ( Byron Maston ) to modify these conversion brackets or make new ones.

Also consider. In 40+ years head gasket technology has changed a lot. Bottom line. Go with what the Head gasket manufacturer recommends.

I bought the Silvermaine SS lines for my conversion. They will make pretty much anything your need.

And here is a picture of yet another large frame Maxima caliper. This one looks like a re-cast bracket. Note the flatter appearnce than the OEM large frame bracket. No casting numbers either.

Found the dimensions of the Large frame Maxima caliper bolt spacing. I knew I'd saved it somewhere: 1.93" Edit: Note there are at least two different Large Frame castings that I know of. Both have the same bolt spacing, but the connecting bridge appears a bit different. This looks like an original Nissan casting with 75N cast in. I have seen other large frame brackets that look " flatter " and have no casting number. Those are probably re-cast Chinea brackets???

Here is the Centric Part number for the small frame Maxima rear Caliper ( Right rear ). Note it has the Bracket casting number of K53R

IHere is the Centric Part number for the Large frame Caliper ( Right Rear )

I did have the dimensions of the bolt spacing written down somewhere. On one of the 97 " sticky notes " covering my work desk. If I find the dimensions again I'll post them. It's really kind of silly that pretty much all the Vendors for these Caliper brackets use a Caliper from a mid-1980's car. They could have chosen something much modern. But they all copied each others design. I believe Silvermine does offer a Stage 4 design that uses a late Model Ford design. Much easier to find, no issues with two different caliper frames like on the Maxima, and wonder of wonders, the brake pad actually covers the whole rotor surface, instead of half of it like the Maxima rear caliper. This is the 1986 Large frame Maxima Caliper mounted on the large 289 mm rotor. Now this will work as far as swept area , but it would be nice if the whole rotor area was covered. This is how all the Large rotor have the Maxima rear caliper positioned. The smaller Z31 256mm rotor with the Maxima calipers has most of the rotor area covered. Z31 289 mm rear rotor with 1986 Maxima Caliper ( Large offset frame )

This is the small bracket. Notice the smaller offset for the mounting lugs. Edit: Don't be confused by " Parallelism ". Pictures were shot at different angles. Look only at the difference of the Lug length form Caliper sliding bolt to caliper mounting bolt.