Chickenman

The Mobile 1 75W-90 GL-5 should be fine for the diff. The Redline MT-90 Synthetic should be fine for your transmission. But, if you find any of the gears a bit " scratchy " with the MT-90, you may find that the GM Friction Modified fluid is even better. My Audi A4 Quattro with Brass sychros shifts much easier on the GM fluid than Redline MT-90 ( or Amsoil MT Fluid ). As does my 83 280ZX 5 speed ( brass synchros ) and my friends 2006 Infinity G35 Coupe with 6 speed manual. He was astounded at how much better the GM FM fluid was over the Nissan Factory fill. Just saying from personal experience...

The stroke and Bore won't change spark plug heat range much . But the Turbo sure as heck will. ( Stock Heat range is a 6. 7's are one range colder ) Go to BPR7ES at .028 to .030 for up to 8 to 10 lbs boost. Over 10 lbs boost use BPR8ES... but you'll need a better than stock Trignition system to keep the plugs clean with 8's. 280ZX matchbox will have enough grunt to 18 psi ( Gap at .026" ) as will a Crane Hi-6 CDI or MSD . Or GM LS-2 Yukon COP. You should have a Wide Band AFR meter in that car. You don't want to run lean with a Turbo. How much boost you pulling. What's the Compression ratio and what sort of Tune/ECU Fuel system do you have? Please tell us more about the motor specs. If you don't have a WB AFR meter on the car, put on on. And keep the boost low, timing conservative and the best darned Pump Fuel that you can find. 93 or 94 Octane minimum. For Turbo engines 10% Ethanol in fuel is good. Knocks down combustion temps but does not require a re-tune. E85 on Turbo engines is awesome, but you need way bigger injectors and an E85 tune to go with it. And that means a stand alone ECU like Megasquirt, AEM or Haltec. ( DD since 2006 is an Audi A4 Quattro with APR 93 Octane tune and pushing 18 lbs daily . Still on original Turbo and engine at 250,000 KM) Edit: And run a 160 F thermostat. Important for Turbo cars in Hot Climates. Especially L series motors. Reduces chance of detonation.

I'm not sure if it actually would hit the strut once installed. It would be bloody close though. Because of the geometry of the front suspension, the front sway bar contributes to anti-dive and anti- lift. So the front wheels won't droop as far with the sway bar attached, as with it disconnected. Pretty sure mine was OK once I got the danged thing in. Regardless, it would be a good idea to round off the ends.

It fits, but it's tight. Put one in my 280Z ( with Eibach springs ) and had the same issue when installing. Different kit number ( 23-4102 ) as the rear bar is shaped different, but I believe the front bar is exactly the same part. MSA does need to address this issue. It makes it a PITA to install. Poor design. The problem is if you jack up the front end and support the frame on jack stands, the wheels go into full droop. Because of the location of the sway bar end links, they occupy an area between the Macpherson strut and lower control arm. This forms an acute angle V.... sort of like this /_ When the wheels go Full Droop, the angle gets more acute and you run out of space to install the bar. The ends of the bar hit the Mac Strut wich leans inward. It hits about 6" up from the control arm. It's a bad design and MSA needs to shorten the bar a bit. In reality the wheels will never droop that far when the bar is installed, or under any other normal circumstances. Solution is to install the front bar with the front wheels loaded on a Ramp hoist, or if you have it on Jack Stands, lift both control arms with a jack under the ball joint area. This will change the strut angle and give you more room. Like this I_ I find it much easier to install the front bar with out the front wheels on. You can also grind the outer end of the bar where it contacts the Mac Strut. It's got a square end and if you grind it down on a bench grinder or with a big angle grinder you gain a considerable amount of room. I didn't have to do this on mine, but if it comes off again I will modify it. OP knows where it hits. Edit: This all being said. You may have one that is slightly longer than normal. They should check there stock to see if you got one abnormally wrong. They also need to round off those ends. Can easily be done in production. I'm going to write them some feedback as well and point it to this thread.

Ya gotta be careful with making those " Cocktails ) Different additives in gear and Transmission oils can cause incompatibility issues and even make protection worse. Not something that I would choose to do, nor is it recommended by any Gear Lubricant manufacturers. Particularly those with High Pressure additives. Mix the wrong stuff and you can kiss your Tranny or Transaxle goodbye. You're usually OK mixing different weights between the same manufacturer. And such things as using some NS Diff oil with regular Diff oils to adjust posi slip. But be wary of mixing gear oils from different manufactures. Just my .02c.. FWIW

Who is Bob? Bob Winters. Started the Forum back in 2002 to attract Technical minded people to participate and provide FACTUAL information to enthusiasts. http://www.amsoil.lube-direct.com/2013/11/bobistheoilguy-review/ The more research you do into BITOG the more you should appreciate it's value to the Automotive Community. BITOG has regular sessions where Engineers will participate on the forum and they even host Chat Sessions. I tend to trust engineers with degrees over some " Fan Site ". You get to know who is spouting BS after a while. That doesn't happen too often on Forums where engineers frequent. Misinformation gets corrected in a hurry. Just my .02c http://synthetics.pennzoil.com/bitog-qanda-with-shell-technical-team/

Start reading BITOG a bit more thoroughly and regularly. Credentials are self evident when you start reading and researching enough. BITOG is probably the MOST respected oil forum on the Internet. Lots of sources to it and references It's regular contributing members are active and retired Chemical, Mechanical, Aircraft and oil engineers. from Shell, Mobile, Chevron. Amsoil, Pennzoil to name just a few. As well a independent Labs such as Blackstone who regularly submit articles to the Tech pages as well as being active in forums.

You have be carefull with Scoobies. They use special formulations for the Transaxle and Transfer case. Best to cheek with Scoobie forums on what's best to use.

This picture of a FS5W71 should make it a bit clearer. Gear on Input shaft #15 drives Constant mesh gear #45 on counter-shaft. Countershaft can be at 1 to 1 ratio of mainshaft, under-driven or over driven, depending on design criteria. On most transmissions, the Countershaft is over driven so that mainshaft gears are smaller in diameter. That means less weight and less inertia to spin them up when Synchro's are engaged by sliding coupler.

I don't think your Mechanic counted the constant mesh gearing ( Main drive gear) from the Input shaft to the Countershaft. Count those gears and you will probably find that the ratio works out to be 1.408xxx. Countershaft will always be rotating at 1.408 ( or whatever the ratio works out to be ) times the speed of the Input shaft. So that figure has to be multiplied across all the gear Teeth count for 1st through 5th. I'd double check all his teeth count and go from there.

This has been covered before, but GM Synchromesh Friction Modified Transmission Fluid also works very well in Nissan transmissions with Brass synchros. There's a thread on here somewhere and lots of info on the Internet. Really great stuff from personal experience. Both my Audi A4 and 1976 280Z with a 83 ZX 5 speed had crunchy second gear synchros. I'd tried various fluids in the Audi, including Redline MTL and Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission fluid. Nothing seemed to cure it. Then I heard about the GM Friction Modified fluid. Gave that a try in the Audi and with in a day it was shifting like butter. Same thing on the ZX 5 speed. Went from crunchy and hard to shift ( particularly when cold ) to literally a 1 finger shift. Seems to work well with any brass synchro ring transmission and is certified as being Yellow Metal safe.

Just to clarify John , would that would have been Brass synchros in your 4 speed that the Swepco ruined? Not Porsche type steel synchros?

I realize that you are worried about flooding the engine during cranking, but think you've unnecessary scared your self a bit. There are lots of people on MS forums that have done this swap and can provide you with base maps for Normally Aspirated L28's cammed L28's, Strokers and Turbo . They also have a ton of support on their forums. Really, if you have Megasquirt, why would you even consider using the Thermotime switch and Cold Start injector? They are an archaic design with no tunabilty. And they really only come into play at fairly cool temperatures. A lot of guys in Southern state physically remove the complete CSI and Thermotime switch with Stock ECU's, as it's troublesome and not really needed in warm climates With the MS you can provide full start enrichment very accurately through the main injectors. You just start off with low values and work your way up. I'm going to be installing a Haltech system on my 1976 280Z this spring, and I can't wait to get rid of the archaic systems that Datsun uses, such as the CSV,TTS and AAR. They worked " OK " in there day, for what they were. But full digital and programmable control is the only way to go IMHO. BTW, and excellant book for installing and tuning DIY Fuel Injection systems is " Performance Fuel Injection Systems " by HP Books. ISBN 978-1-55788-557-9 . Authors Matt Cramer and Jerry Hoffman, both from Megasquirt This book walks you step by step on how to set up stand alone EFI systems. It's purpose is to take some of the " anxiety factor " many DIY's have when entering the world of Electronic Fuel Injection. And it does that in plain English with easy to understand explanations and step by step instructions that the layman can understand. It is a Gold Mine of information.

It is important to understand that GL-4 and GL-5 are pressure standards for gear oils. GL-5 is formulated to handle much higher pressures than GL-4. It is the high pressure additive packages ( Sulphor and Phosphates ) added to conventional ( Dino oil ) GL-5 oils and "most " Synthetic oils that damage " Yellow Metals " susch as Brass synchro rings. You can make a gear oil that is both GL-4 and GL-5 compatible. The Swepco that ZH mentioned is one brand. Motul 300 75w-90 is another. It is also $29.95 a liter. These combination oils are typically used in Trans-axles that require both Yellow Metal compatibility and the High pressure shear strength for Hypoid differential gears. They can do this with using extremely high quality Ester Synthetic oils. Ester Synthetics are superior to normal synthetics, but they are not cheap. The important thing to note is that is a GL-5 oil that is made to be used in Manual Transmissions or Trans-axles with " Yellow Metal " components will categorically state that it is safe for " Yellow Metals". And they will be expensive. http://motul.speclube.com/products/all-products/gear-300-75w90-1l/ Mobile 1 Syn Gear 75w-90 LS is a Hydrocarbon base oil... not Ester based. And it does NOT state that it is safe for " Yellow Metal" components. Seems pretty clear. Edit: Sorry for the Novel. Insomnia again... so i get " wordy "

Further research from BobIsTheOilGuy.com. Answer from Mobile about using Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75w-90 in manual transmissions with Yellow metals. Specifically Brass and Bronze synchros: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3062144

Direct from Mobile 1 Product Data. No mention of this being recommended as a manual transmission fluid. It is recommended as a Rear end differential oil only. No mention of it being " Yellow Metal " compatible.... and that is the important part.

That White paper ( By Amsoil ) is a test of Gear Oils for Differentials. Not Transmissions. It's stated throughout the whole article. All Hypoid gear differentials require extreme pressures additives and that is GL-5 spec. It is those higher concentrations of additives ( mainly Sulfur and Phosphor ) that attack yellow metals. Specifically Brass and Bronze. GL-4 is the recommended fluid for most manual Transmissions because you do not require the extra high pressure additives that Hypoid gears require. The Datsun FSM recommends GL-4 Fluid for the manual Transmission for a very good reason. Just as it recommends GL-5 for the differential. The OP seems to be confusing the standard ASTM-130 Corrosive test of Copper strips as " proof " that GL-5 is safe for " Yellow Metals " in Transmissions. That is a flawed conclusion and not what the test is designed to illustrate. ZH also mentioned this. Copper is not Brass or Bronze. Differentials rarely have any components made out of Brass, Bronze or even Copper. And certainly not the same alloys as Synchro rings. GL-4 corrosion tests allow far LESS percentage of the " Yellow Metal " corrosive High Pressure additives and the Test standards are entirely different than GL-5. Amsoil themselves recommend GL-4 Transmission Oil for our cars. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=1980+NISSAN/DATSUN+280ZX+K http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA Mobile 1 doesn't even make a GL-4 compatible transmission oil.

x2 for the Sil-Glyde. The grease doesn't seem to dry out like the spray. Sil-Glyde is also good on the hatch seal w/strip. That squeaking can drive you nuts.

Just an FYI and please draw your own conclusions, but.... K&N filters are one of the biggest marketing Hype jobs ever made. Like everyone else I bought into that Hype until I was warned by a couple of Diesel and Industrial engine builders of the short comings of K&N style filters. I started reading articles ( other than the Paid Marketing Hype in Hot Rod and Super Chevy )..... and the truth started to come out. K&N filters ( and all similar Cotten Gauze air filters ) are great on Race cars. Not so good on Daily Drivers. They flow a lot of air compared to paper Element filters but K&N filters do not Filter air as well as Paper Element filters. Cotton Gauze style filters tend to catch the big stuff, but cannot stop the very fine particulate matter. I found this out for myself in the early 1990's when I noticed fine particulate dust gathered on the inside of my Moroso open element air cleaner, after a trip through a dusty desert region . The air cleaner flanges were sealed with K&N grease and the filter was properly oiled. So the dust was only getting in one way. This was confirmed by my engine builder when we pulled the engine down for a " Freshen ". We found evidence of very fine particulate dirt lightly scoring the bores and bearings. My engine builder advised me to run a Paper element filter on the Street and only use the K&N for racing. You will NEVER find a Big Rig or Bus Diesel engine equipped with K&N style filters from the manufacturer. EVER. Big Diesel engines use Paper Element filters and are monitored with a flow gauge that tell you when the Filter is getting clogged. Obviously, operation on a dry dusty Logging road is going to vastly different from a Hwy hauler. I've been driving Big Rig Fleet machinery since 1992... and have talked to Detroit and Cummins mechanics about this very subject. They all recommend Paper Element filters for the Big Diesels. Factory air filters are very good for what they are designed for. And the Nissan Air ( and Oil filters ) are very good. Here is one of the best Independent papers available on Air filter medians. Very good reading and no BS. Edit: Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons. http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-gmc-diesel-tech-articles/16611-duramax-air-filter-testing.html

The Z 5 speed Comp boxes already had slip yokes. Flange output is the link for that red 510 looks like a conversion type or Roadster type. It's a bit hard to tell from the picture...

Google SCCA Forums. They have classified for Race Parts and Cars and you will reach the widest interested buying group that way. And people with $$$. If you advertise on E-bay, make sure that you put a ( high ) minimum reserve on it. Other wise you could end up selling it for $180.... Ouch!!!

The size of the engine has nothing to do with Spark Plug Wire selection. Any good quality spiral core wire will work fine on a Normally aspirated engine. NGK, MSD, Magnacore are always good choices. Hard to beat NGK NE61 for value and quality. Plus they smell good!!

Get the R's. Period. As for the engine hesitating at 16 to 1 at Cruise? All engines are different ( just like wives ) There's a golden rule with engines...( also like wives ). Give the engine what it wants to be happy. If it wants more fuel.. give it more. If it's happy on less fuel... give it less. Same with timing. And the only way to achieve this is to try different combinations. For maximum Fuel economy at cruise, give the engine the least amount of fuel that it''s " Happy " with. Try 15.7 and see if the hesitation goes away. Or 15.5 or maybe 15.2. Eventually you'll hit the " sweet " spot and that's what you want. A Load Cell Chassis Dyno is the best way... but you can sort things on the Road. Just be careful and obey the Law. Best to have a passenger to monitor things while you concentrate on driving. You can do a lot with a WB AFR meter and a Vacuum gauge. But they are only instruments. You have to determine if the engine is responding properly. Now.... once you have spent years developing the skills necessary to to tell if an engine is contented and running efficiently... try that with women. Good luck with that!!!

There is also speculation that Datsun 2000 roadster Servo rings may work as these are the Porsche design and made of steel. To me that makes a lot of sense because the Production of the 2000 Roadster and early 240Z's overlapped in 1970. Nissan would have had all the tooling and parts to use in the non-USA 5 speeds. Datsun 2000 Roadster rings may be easier or harder to find than the Porsche ones. Or they could be the exact same part!!

JMortensen is a Datsun Guru on HybridZ. He mentioned the Porsche type 915 tranny rings... but also in a different he mentions Porsche type 901 rings. Best to physically take the parts down to a Porsche Transmission expert to match. Maybe give JM a Private Message about these boxes. Here's a link where he mentions the 915 and 901 Porsche boxes: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92246-to-people-with-experience-with-the-datsun-comp-5-speed-need-parts-for-one/ Edit: I would NOT order any parts from E-Bay until you have taken a Servo apart and have them identified positively by experts (Porsche) . There's a lot of guess work back and forth even by the experts on what parts fit and what don't on the Nissan Comp boxes.