Chickenman

Run the stock Datsun PCV system. It works, very, very well. The crankcase breather Tube connects to the PCV Valve at the bottom of the Intake manifold. It has a built in oil baffle and screen inside the block. It is very effective at catching and separating oil droplets. The Vent on top of the Valve cover goes to the stock Air cleaner. The hose to the Air Cleaner plays a more important part than people often realise. The Arrington CCV Bible article explains why. You should always run an operational PCV system on a street car. Failure to do so will cause fairly quick contamination of the oil via ring blowby, acid accumulation in the oil due to water condensation not being removed effectively by Vent To Atmosphere systems. Increased oil leaks from seals and gaskets due to the fact that you will be running a higher positive crankcase pressure with out a PCV valve. And often over looked. You get increased Ring seal by running a PCV system compared to a VTA system. If you like, you can run a closed Catch can system between the Block breather hose and the PCV Valve. But it must be a sealed or " recirculating " Catch Can system. That means no Vent on top of the Catch can. Doing so renders the PCV system virtually inoperative and you are back to a VTA system. Which should not be run on a Daily Driver.. Race cars are a different deal for several reasons: 1: The oil is changed much more regularly than a street car. Professional Road Race cars may change oil after every race. Contaminants would never have a chance to build up as in a street car. 2: Race cars, particularly Circuit racers, run long enough and hot enough to burn off any water condensation that will forms acids and sludge in the oil. Short drives to the 7/11 on a Daily driver don't get hot enough to burn off the water condensation. That is the job of the PCV system. 3: Circuit race cars usually run a Dry Sump system for oiling. The scavenge pumps create a negative pressure in the even at High RPM. This is very effective at increasing ring seal. Nascar engines have seen HP gains all the way up to 20 in/hg vacuum in the block. This CCV article from Arrington Performance explains the functions and benefits of proper Cranck case Ventilation. Which on street cars is provided by the PCV system: Arrington CCV Bible.pdf

And our Air Care program went by the original Emissions specs for the car year. My 1986 Camaro only had to meet the Manufacturers specs for 1986. But Cali isn't that way is it?

Do you have a modern Catalytic converter on it? If not buy a universal 3 way Cat. It's amazing how clean you can get an engine with a Cat. My Hillclimb/Autocross 1986 Camaro put out 425 bhp. 355 CI SBC, 10.5 CR , SBC running a 750 DP Holley ( Mind you a very HEAVILY modified Holley ) I could easily pass our Emissions testing when we had them. In fact it ran cleaner than a 1992 EFI spec 305. 1986 Canadian Camaro's came with a Quadrajet. Our Aircare originally did visual inspections. But in later years thye dropped them becuase: 1: The hired staff they had did not have a clue what thye were looking at. 2: All that really mattered was what came out the tailpipe. As long as that met specs they couldn't care less what was under the hood!! But a new ( only used 1 Day per year ) Catalytic converter really, really cleans things up. V-Bands make things easy...

You are indeed correct. Ballast resistor used up until and including 1977. 1978 had a totally different Ignition Box design than other years. Missed that...

Show us pictures of the Ballst resistor wiring. The Crank and Run signals are on separate circuits from the Ignition switch. There are 4 terminals on the Ballast resistor Note that you MUST have both the Cranking circuit and the Run circuit going to the Coil positive side. The two circuits are separate in the Ignition switch. #4 is closest to firewall and Connects to Negative side of Coil. Blue wire from Ballast resistor goes to Tach resistor, Tachometer and RPM signal for ECU. #3 Terminal is at the end of the Ballast resistance wire and connects to the coil Positive terminal. #2 Terminal is the " Cranking " power feed. It has minimal resistance drop and is only on when cranking. #1 Terminal is the " Run " power feed. It reduces the Voltage to the coil and current draw on the Trignition coil drivers via the Ballast resistance wire. . Some aftermarket Ignition Boxes or the Matchbox 280ZX dizzy have a coil driver that can handle a lot more current. So you do not need to reduce the Volatge and current draw to the coil. In those situations you connect Terminals #1 and #2 directly to Terminal #3... bypassing the resistor wire. Schematic of Trignition wiring for Federal and California models. Federal models have two pickup coils. An advanced coil for cold running and then it switches to the other Pickup coil and normal advance at around 150 F.

Oh...I'm pretty darned sure it's on Purpose. Identity Theft and Credit Card info is the most common reason.

If you decide to go MS... do your self a favor and go MS3. Much better firmware than MS2. Don't even think about MS1.

Batch fire requires a slightly richer idle than sequential. 13.8 to 14.0 for a stock Cam. Cams with more overlap require a richer Mixture yet 13.5 range usually works well. Bigger cams also require more ignition timing at idle. This is due to the EGR caused by the larger overlap. EGR contaminates the idle mixture with exhaust gases and the Air/Fuel mix burns slower. So more timing required. Cruise AFR's leaner than 15.0 can be difficult unless you have a very strong ignition system. ( Edit The stock 280Z Trignition Boxes are too weak to run that lean. You need big spark gaps and lots of current. The 280ZX matchbox distributor is very good on Normally Aspirated engines. With that and plugs gaps of around .042" to .045" you can run 15.0 or leaner at cruise. 16.0 to 1 at Cruise will normally require a CDI ignition Box such as Fast ( Crane Fireball H_6 ) or MSD digital 6. I do not like recommending MSD 6AL boxes ( Analog box ) due to reliability issues. MSD = My Spark Disappeared This chart from MS is not bad as a reference point. Obviously for Normally Apirated only. I like to run the 1500 rpm's a bit richer than Stoich, as it helps with light throttle transitions ( Tip-in ) Scott Clarke has a You Tube video on Tuning Acceleration Transitions . So does Andy Wyatt from Adaptronics and Andy Whittle at MS . Both Andy's have excellent Tuning channels on You Tube.

Use just about anything but Innovate. Horrible quality control. They go through 4.9LSU sensors like crazy. PLX and Zeitronics are is very good,. So is 14PointSeven. Aem is pretty good, especially the new X series. http://speed.academy/aem-x-series-wideband-afr-controller-tested-fastest-responding-wideband-confirmed/

Hardware drivers for the cables and such are easy peasy. Windows 7 usually has generic ones ready to go, or you can download them from Microsoft or a reputable manufacturer. I use the include CD's as Coffee coasters Other than asking me to remove the Negative feedback, because they're actually " really nice guys ", they haven't done anything. Just sent the same download link with instructions to disable all Virus Scanner s before installing... LOL.

Well, I've received the programmer. Waiting on a Parallel to USB adapter cable as I don't have a LPT port on either my Laptop nor my Desktop.. Some notes. 1: You receive software via an E-mail Weblink. Now I always scan any downloaded software with my AV Program before running it. Sure enough, my AV software ( Avira ) immediately picked up a Trojan . TR/Rogue.1137821. I've used Avira for over 10 years, and it very seldom detects False Positives. Interestingly the instruction in the E-mail tell you to turn off your Ant-Virus scanner before Unzippinf ( RAR compressed file. Uh... no freakin' way. There should be nothing in any legit program that requires your AV to be disabled. Also interesting is that the download file is in a standard RAR ( WinRar ) format. I've used Zip Genius for years as a compression and unzipping program. It handle RAR files with no problem. However, when I tried to unzip the files ZG immediately flashed a warning about an unrecognised format. At the same time my AV scanner activated. I was eventually able to unzip the folder using a Trail copy of WinRar... after cleaning by my AV program. Another interesting thing. Folder contained a old version of WinRAR ( Version 3.X ) in executable form. Now why would they include an old copy of WinRar, in a zipped folder, when you need Winrar in the first place to unzip the file? My suspicious answer is that it's a good place to hide a Trojan. The actual executable for the Eprom Burner software turned out to be clean. I scanned it several times and it was OK. The software program is for a Willems 5.0 ( PCB ) EPROM burner. Easily found in numerous locations on the net. This version seems to be Legit and is version " setup_98d11.exe ". I can send you the AV scanned executable by itself if you like. Software from China often contains Trojans. So I'm used to scanning the hell out of the files before I run them. Sometimes I'll just get the executable version number. Then go to the hardware Manufacturers site to download the " Safe " software. BTW, Willems does have a site where you can download the software for this EPROM burner ( Version 5.0 PCB ). Based on the Trojan that was detected in the software. And the fact that the Zipped file could not be deleted. It had altered " Permissions " that prevented deletion, even with Fill administrator privileges. Even a File Deletion program ( File Shredder 32 ) could not delete the file. I finally got it removed by some advanced " Brute Force " methods. But that sucker definitely did not want to be removed. I left Negative feedback on the Product based on the embedded Trojan in the software and let the Vendor know. Thet fairly quickly e-mailed back, basically begging that I remove the Negative comment, and to re-install with My AV program disabled. Hinting all along that it was a problem with my AV scanner. Sorry.... not going to happen. I've been building and repairing PC's since 1992. I know when a False positive is detected and why. 2: Now, on to the product itself. Haven't been able to actually test the burner, as it comes with a Parallel to Parallel LPT cable ( Nice addition ) But modern Desktops and laptops seldom come with LPT ports any more. I'm waiting for a USB adapter4 to come from E-bay. Overall, assembly looks well made, with clean solder joints. However, there were a couple of Jumper headers that were installed like the leaning tower of Pizza. This prevented the correct setting of jumpers for the Chips I wanted to burn. A few minutes with some Jewelers Needle Nose pliers and that was fixed. But it was a bit sloppy. I've seen worse though. 3: Testing the software resulted in an IO/SYS error dialog box popping up. However, you could click " OK " and software would load. It would not exit though. You had to use Task Manager to kill the process. No this may be due to the fact that the burner was not actually plugged in to my Computer. I was running the software off line. To be fair, I tested an earlier version of the software downloaded directly from the manufacturer ( It scanned clean with my AV program ) . This software did the same thing. So I suspect it is just a problem with running the program in Off Line mode. As soon as my USB adapter arrives I'll test further. Is it worth $50? If it works I'd say Yes. But I would not download the Chinese vendors software. I would download the software direct from Willem. 098D9 seems to be the latets version from Kees Electronics. ( A more trustworthy site IMHO . 1 setup zipped file and it scans clean with Avira AV, SuperAntiSpyware and MalwareBytes) http://keeelectronics.com/files/setup.zip

I'm actually kind of glad your didn't sell it Jim. I think you'd regret it. Bring it out to some more Cruise's out West. Have you advertised it on BC Datsun ( Face Book ). I have a feeling it would sell out in BC. Not at this time of year, but in the Spring. Merry Christmas!!

I always put a dab of Medium Strength Loctite ( 242 Blue ) on any small bolts like that. Don't use the High strength or Stud Lock. You may never get the bolt out in one piece again.

Should be a nice combo. A 274 would be a nice Auto cross and street cam. Good torque at low range but added HP and RPM range up top. With an L28 you could use a 280 - 290 duration,. Some people will tell you you need more camshaft, but the worst thing you can do on a street car is to over cam the engine. An early L24 ( 6/71 ) should have Flat Tops and an E31.head. So decent CR in the 9.0 to 9.2 range. That will work nicely with that cam.

It will be a while before it gets here. Literally slow boar from China. Yeah, I'm going to use my tiniest Drewel grinding wheel and a sharp Xacto to expose some of the Lead In. Then solder some spare legs off of a donor chip. Should work.

There are some different shifter levers that will help this issue as Jim mentioned. I'll try and find the link a bit later. But a 71 will likely need a bit of trimming for the Tunnel hole. Even the later style F4W71B transmission from 1972 onwards requires the shifter hole to be trimmed a bit. The 1971's and earlier vhad the F4W71A transmission with the " Monkey Motion " linkage. The transmission linkage sits further back on those and the transmission tunnel hole is further back on 71 and earlier models. Part of the solution is using a 5 speed shift lever out of a 280Z 5 speed rather than a ZX. See Post #73 in the first link below ( Page 3 ) Edit: Found two of the links. Usual Photobucket mess unfortunately. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23128-5-speed-in-a-4-speed-question/?page=3 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51950-280z-5-speed-shifter-question/

Trying to hack my spare G**C 440cc chipped ECU and pull the . Bin file off it. Buddy was trying to read it on his burner. He got clumsy and broke three pins off the chip. Trying to do some really delicate surgery and recover data. Then I can burn a fresh chip.

I've only got 29F200BB 70ns. I ordered a strip of 5 from China and they cost me about $1.00 each. I ordered the Deluxe ones 70ns . I think you want a minimum speed of 70ns or less. E-bay links: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=AMD+AM29F400BB&_sop=15

I just bought this. Will supposedly work with 29F200, 29F400, and 29F800 chips and many others.: https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetails?transid=1864721395002&itemid=122016189087&qu=1&ul_noapp=true

I'd just buy the appropriate injectors from Motor Man or Injector Rehab. I got a set of re-man Standard Blue Streak FJ3's for $165 a couple of years back. But it looks like the supplier has run out of them. The FJ3's work just dandy. They are the stock 188cc re-man's. Edit: 280Z and 280ZX ( NA ) have the exact same injector.

^ As NZ linked to. Original injectors for Nissan were a JECS. JECS was a subsidiary of Hitachi that worked in co-operation with Bosch so that Bosch could access the Japanese market... according to Wiki.

Ah...it was the bright white paint that was throwing me off. Didn't look like a stock fan color.

Jeremy. Is that the stock fan on the engine. Can you get a better picture of the fan. Something looks a little " Off "

The other thing is that Coolant reservoir. It should be a minimum of 1/2 full when cold. You may have an air lock in the system. Can happen after a fresh fill of Coolant if proper procedures aren't followed. After installing fresh coolant. 1: Make sure the coolant reservoir is at least half full. Warm the engine up fully with the rad cap removed. Have the heater valve turned to full hot. Fan must be on with Auto Climate control. Watch the water level. When the stat opens the fluid level should drop. 2: Add coolant as necessary. Revv engine to around 2,000 to 2,500 RPM. Coolant level should drop further. While maintaining Revs , fill the radiator to the absolute Brim with coolant. Quickly install the Rad cap. Reduce revs. The idea of revving the engine is to pressurise the engine block and head and eliminate any Voids where air can be trapped. It will also ensure that the coolant recovery bottle pulls a solid siphon when you shut the engine off. You can repeat the above procedures if you think you have an air lock. Might be a good idea.

Here's a thought. Have you actually measured the water Temp in the radiator with a Temperature probe? Could be a faulty gauge, sensor or even a bad ground. You can go to your local Parts supplier and get one of those Radiator temp testers for very cheap. I use a digital Candy/Meat thermometer that can immersed in liquids. $15.