blitzkraig

Good luck, State Farm insisted on totaling my car unless I could find an almost exact duplicate selling for higher than what they thought or I pay 300 bucks to have it appraised. And my car was in it's prime when it got rear ended! Farmer's Insurance (the other guy's insurance), ended up agreeing to cough up the cash once I sent them copies of thousands in reciepts from restoring the car. If you're not concerned about having a salvage title you could buy the car back from the insurance company at a low cost.

The paint code for the Monte Carlo Blue is B66P. Unfortunately most of the money from selling this will go into paying off my 2004 Civic I bought in September for daily driving (gotta pretty kickin deal on ebay for it). The rest of the money will go towards paying off credit cards and into my 56 Ford pickup project. Someday I shall get another Z project, and as far as quality goes it will blow this one out of the water. Craig 71 240z http://www.evil-wheels.com (shop I work at)

Oh yeah, here's the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4619261417&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 durh

I've decided it is time for me to part ways with my beloved 240z :sleepy: . I've listed it on ebay and I figured I'd let you guys here know. I would love to see it go to a fellow Z fan. It was the car of the month back in April of 2004 if I remember right. Good night and good luck.

I got rear ended about 2 months ago and now after finally winning the battle with the insurance company I'm finally getting around to fixing my baby. So I ordered a new rear panel from motorsport. I tore out the old body panel and held the new one in place only to discover the new panel is complete crap. It has the stamping for the bumper mounts, the exhaust cutout, and the imprint in the middle , but it does not have nearly enough curve going down or any side to side! I can make it fit, but it will be a lot of work, and it won't look very nice. I can't believe I paid $250 for this pile of crap! So now I'm looking for a used rear panel from a junk Z. If anyone has one that will fit a 71 240 please contact me! 831-419-9736

So I got rear ended in traffic last week, no biggie for me really, I can fix it all myself. But my insurance is trying to say the car is technically totaled, since it's over 5k in damages. But here's the rub, me n my pops decided to have the car insured at 10k after I finished restoring it 2 years ago, but the insurance company apparently didn't do that and never told us. So now they want proof saying the car is worth more than the value of the damages. I've got receipts for 12k worth of new parts from the resto, but they want resale value. I figure in the condition my car was in before the accident I should be able to get 7k easy. I was wondering what you guys have seen Zs like mine go for in the past few years (check the gallery to see what I've done to mine). This is all just a big headache that I don't have a lot of spare time to deal with so any help would be greatly appreciated!

I know what's wrong with it, that's not the original radio!

Hey guys, haven't been around in a while. Things have been hectic lately. I know this is a little off topic but I figured I'd get a good answer here. My dad requested a bottle of nice single malt scotch for xmas. I'm more of a beer nut myself so I'm clueless on scotch. I figure there's a diverse enough population on this forum that someone will have a good recommendation. Thanks oh btw, tryin to keep it under $50 Thanks

Just wanted to let ya guys know there's a series one 240 at the moss landing pick n pull. The body is pretty rotted but the interior plastic panels are CHERRY! I would have taken the door panels but the driver's door was taken. I think the engine is gone, and the seats are torn up, but I figured someone should snag that plastic. Z on!

There is actually an inspection type plate that unbolts from wheel well in front of the gas tank. It's held in by 3 or 4 phillips head screws. get that off and it's easy street to the bumper bolt.

Get rid of all rust from the surface before you apply anything over the metal. It may take a while but the rust will break through eventually.

If you can, tint your primer/sealer close to the final color you plan on painting your car. It will save you paint cuz you won't need as much color to cover the primer. With darker colors it may actually be better to spray a dark gray primer/sealer.

The best thing you can do is take off as many parts as you can. Take off the hood, doors, hatch, cowl, everything. Jamb the back sides of those parts you took off and then paint the outside of the parts, car, and the jambs on the car all at once. This way you don't get any masking lines in your jambs.

Time to go hunt down that taurus electric fan swap

Can't these morons just admit they fuked up bad and replace the car? Seems like the owner should be able to take legal action against the dealership if they don't! How the hell do you drop a car off a lift?

pic of crossmember cutup and mockup

Pic of shifter setup

Pic of finished crossmember

The stock 4 speed manual in the 240z is a great transmission, but I kept catching myself almost trying to shift into a nonexistent 5th gear. After my transmission locked up in a Kragen parking lot I decided to swap in a 5 speed. The late model 280z 5 speeds are easy bolt ins, but their gear ratios are not as good as the 4 speed, and their 5th isn't that high either. Seeing as I didn't want to swap out a differential with the transmission to make up for the different ratios, I did some research and found the T5 from an 81-83 280ZX Turbo has similar ratios to the stock 4 speed, and a greater overdrive 5th to beat! The only shortcoming here is the work needed to get this transmission into an early 240! I figured since I've done my share of custom work on my 56 Ford, I could easily get this transmission in. As it turned out, it really wasn't all that hard. There are 3 major obstacles to overcome in order to accomplish this swap • Transmission crossmember • Driveshaft • Shifter The following is a description of what I've done to make the T-5 work in my '71 240z Transmission Crossmember Some websites have described using L brackets to adapt the crossmember from the T5 to the mounting holes in the tranny tunnel, but I didn't think this was quite as sturdy as a real crossmember setup. After eyeing the tranny position when mocked up into place, I decided to try chopping up the stock and T5 crossmembers to make one custom piece. So what I've done here is cut off the ends of both crossmembers, and welded the ends of the stock crossmember to the center section of the T5 crossmember. VERY IMPORTANT! Remember to position the transmission output shaft at the same angle as the differential input shaft for proper driveshaft angle. Also, use a NEW rubber transmission mount! I used the old one since I didn't have a new one on hand yet, and found out the old bushing was quite compressed (so the new rubber mount changed the driveshaft angle). Since this is such a critical support, be sure the welding is of good quality. Driveshaft The Z Garage website says that in order for the swap to work, you need to use a shortened T5 driveshaft and swap on the differential flange from a T5 equipped car. After going to a junkyard and getting said flange, I found out that it won't bolt onto the stock R180 differential. After much swearing and hitting of the punching bag, I figured that I could probably have the front assembly from the T5 driveshaft welded onto the stock driveshaft in place of the stock front assembly when I get it resized. When I took the driveshafts to get worked on, the guy told me he could actually swap on a new input spline into the stock driveshaft that would allow it to work with the T5 and still have replaceable U-joints (After a certain year, the U-joints became permanent). So a potential problem turned out to have a rather simple solution. Shifter This aspect of the swap is one of the nastiest obstacles to tackle. The shifter position of the T5 is about an inch forward of the shifter hole. So you either A: Cut the hole and the center console so a regular shifter will fit, or B: make a custom shifter. Since I wanted a clean looking swap I opted for the custom shifter route. To start off I purchased a shifter for a late model mustang T5 from ebay, thinking this would bring me pretty close to where I wanted. Unfortunately since the transmission is about an inch below the top of the tranny tunnel and the mustang shifter sticks straight up 3 inches before bending back, I had to do some creative cutting and welding. Basically I cut the base rod of the shifter almost near the plate, and welded a thick bolt at an angle to clear the shifter hole opening. Then I cut the other part of the shifter and welded it to the end of the bolt. It doesn't fit perfect, so I still had to open the tranny tunnel hole and the center console a little more in the front for the forward shifts, but not by much (shifter boot will cover it all). Also the shifter had to be heated and bent a little despite the new custom geometry (shifted forward fine, but hit the console in back shifts). The inner rubber shifter boot doesn't fit in place any more, but with a new leather shifter boot the only way you can tell there's a new tranny in the car is the knob! And that's pretty much it, the major parts of the swap are finished. The rest of it is pretty simple. Use the stock flywheel and clutch parts. Swap out the T5 throwout bearing on the input shaft with the one from the four speed along with the clutch fork so you can use the stock clutch slave cylinder (and keep it adjustable!). Don't forget to fill it up with Dexron 3/Mercon ATF (as recommended by Z Garage). Enjoy that smooth shift into 5th on the highway! If there's any questions (I know my write up is crappy, I'll redo it at some point) just email me! blitzkraig@hotmail.com

I put one of those in my 71 240. I used the old wheel as a reference to check how far out the roll pins should stick, so my turn signals work fine. But I have the same problem as you do as far as the horn is concerned. The kit came with a little spring and contact but the instructions say it's for a 280.....so not sure what's going on there. Lemme know what you find out.

I think the convertible conversion looks better on a 2+2......and a 2+2 looks better as a convertible :cheeky:

At the body shop I work at I have never seen a door skin welded on (except for a 65 ferrari I'm restoring). All doorskins are folded around the edge and then seam sealed just as yer friend said. The POR-15 trick sounds like a very good idea to prevent rust as well.