blitzkraig

How important is that exhaust clamp looking thing on the steering rack of my Z? I tore it off when i was refinishing the rack, thinking some half assed mechanic put it there for whatever reason but I found it mentioned in my restoration book......oops:dead:

Ok, thanks. I'll take a look at that stuff in the morning. Just got all my front suspension together today. Just another quick question since you guys brought up heater hoses. I got new hoses for the passenger side of the block and plugged them in where they seemed to want to go but I looked at a picture I had taken and written on referencing to the two hoses, and I think I may have hooked them up wrong. The hose that runs from the water inlet, down the length of the block and into the firewall goes into the heater? And the hose connected directly to the rear of the block is hooked up to a flow switch?

Thank you, thank you. I humbly accept this village idiot award. It's taken so many years of hitting my head on things (like freshly painted struts hanging from the garage cieling) to reach this point. I'd like to thank smirnoff, and all brands of paint thinner. Anyway, thanks for the replies guys. FIrst time dealing with a manual tranny (used to C4s), and never torn a car this far down! Two more weeks til she hits the road again! On a seperate note, has anyone used the silicone based brake fluid? The restoration book I have keeps mentioning it, and I sure would like to spare my paint from any brake line mess ups

Please take pity on the idiot. Is the oil filler nut on the T5 the large square nut on the right side of the tranny? And what type of fluid is used in the clutch lines and differential? Thank Yew

I've got a stock L24 and tore the intakes apart to polish them. I've got them mostly back together and setup but I don't have anything from the hole facing the firewall on the rear intake (opposite the balance tube). Can someone check their manifold and tell me what screws into that side? Thanks

Oops...hehe....I was just lucky with my car then. The spindle pins just slid out with a few hammer hits on mine. The painful procedure described sounded more like the axle stub removal. Sorry

Just out of curiousity. Is it hard to get the spindle and bearing back in the hub? I got the bearings pressed on the spindle but I want to try and hammer in the spindle and the other bearing.

Don't wait for rust to become visible, seek it out and destroy it. HAHA! SEEK AND DESTROY.....love that phrase anyway, when I was researching I came across this company which may have a good electronic system. Check out their info to see why they claim it works better than the standard systems http://www.erps.com.au/index_erps.html

Daniel, that's a good idea. I'll drop by the hardware store and see what I can do with that. I'd try to heat and bend the shifter itself but I'd have to bend it right as it comes out of the plate and I don't know how to remove the rod from it. I'll be workin on it this weekend. Any opinions on the driveshaft?

Well the list of things to do to get my Z back on the road again is starting to get very short. However now I really have to focus on getting the T5 setup to work in my car. I wanted to bring some ideas to this board for some opinions. I have two big problems at this point. First, the differential flange that I believed would be what I needed to make the ZXT driveshaft work doesn't fit on the R180. So I'm thinking when I get the driveshaft resized I can just have the shop cut off the front part of the ZXT driveshaft and weld that on the stock driveshaft. I know the ZXT driveshaft is bigger so the flange will stick out a bit, but it should still work right? My second problem is of course the shifter. As it sits now, the shifter sticking straight up is right at the very front of the shifter opening in the tranny tunnel. There's about 1.5 - 2 inches of space between the top of the tranny and the shifter hole. I got a mustang shifter to go in there but the straight part sticks up too far. Now I thought I would cut the straight part short, drill a large hole down the center of it for a large thick bolt to tap into it (then becoming the shifter), and then bending the large bolt to the appropriate shape so I don't have to butcher my center console. So are these ideas viable? Am I nuts? Are there other ways I could do this? Check the link below for some visual help with my descriptions. http://people.ucsc.edu/~crearly/temp.htm Thanks for any and all replies!:classic:

I was researching this topic a while back. There are a few companies that sell these items for cars that are based on the same system used on boats. However these don't work on cars because one of the main elements that allows it to work on boats, the sea water, is not present on cars. However the E.R.P.S. company system has been modified in such a way that the paint of the car is used to help protect instead of the sea water. It's all very confusing but sounds legit I guess. I'm not sure if I'm going to get it for my Z when I'm done or not yet.

I'm not really sure I'm going to use a late model driveshaft after all. The flange that is supposed to be swapped on the differential apparently doesn't fit on the stock R180

I'll keep an eye out in Santa Cruz in case they come this way.

Cool, I just assumed yes and torqued them down to 16 ftlbs. Engine and tranny are now back in the car! Just a few more weeks......Thank you

Is the pressure plate supposed to be tightened down til it touches the flywheel? I have the torque specs but I have a giant torque wrench that I don't trust below 20 ft lbs. This is on a stock 71 with stock clutch

Great website man. I've been watching your gallery to see more pics of the beautiful car. Nice to finally see some info on it. I plan on spraying a similar honda color on my car soon as well. I think mine will be B65P, Monte Carlo Blue

As said on the Z garage website about a T5 swap I raided an 82 ZXT for it's differential flange. However it doesn't even fit on my stock differential! It won't slide on and the spline opening is larger than the stock flange! What's the big idea??

well, just took a couple angry whacks at the thing this morning and it finally popped out. Thanks for the help. I got the backing plate off with some persuasion from the hammer but now the inner bearing will not even budge. It is supposed to be knocked from the inside towards where the differential would be right? The book I have has the worst wording.

Yeah I got the retainer nut off and removed the flange so it's just the spindle sticking out the inside. I guess I need a better hammer; I'm using an old body hammer.