blitzkraig

I'm tearing down the rear wheel setups for sandblasting and painting (they're already removed from the control arms and springs). I've got the brakes out and the halfshaft flange off, but I can't knock the hub out of the assembly (I'm going off a Z restoration book). Is there anything left that needs to be unbolted before the hub will knock out or do I need a heavier hammer?

Well I'm not too familiar with the replacement roof panels. You should go the route that requires the least amount of welding so you won't be using loads of bondo on the areas that become distorted from the heat. If the replacement panel must be welded all around the roof then don't do it, just replace the rusted metal. Good luck

If it's just a tiny spot then do sheetmetal work. Just cut out the rusted portion and weld in a piece cut to fit. Bondo can help make it look good as new

While we're talking about clutches I was wondering if I could get some advice as well. I'm swapping a T5 into my 71 and was wondering which clutch to use. I have the stock one, the one that came with the T5, or I could get something like that centerforce I clutch. Any opinions?

Now you guys have me scared. I recently bought a cam from MSA (came really quick though). It came in a box labeled schnieder cams and I haven't installed it yet. I've heard of them before so I assume I should be ok?

For any of you living near San Jose there's an 83 280ZX Turbo in the N San Jose Pick n Pull. The engine and tranny look complete but I tore the flange off the differential for my T5 swap. Just a heads up for anyone.

I never really responded to the uneven spraying part. Metallics will show an uneven spray pattern much more than a solid color. Just remember when you're spraying to spray over 50% of your previous run; that should insure an even distribution.

Orange peel has quite a few causes. You might not have been spraying at the right pressure, the materials might not have been reduced (thinned) enough, etc etc. Personally I would go with the base coat/clear coat system and you won't have to worry as much. If there is a lot of orange peel you can sand and buff the clear coat to be smooth as glass. And stick with the new urethane stuff. Acrylic laquer is nice, but just not as durable as the new stuff. I prefer PPG as it's fairly easy to spray. The 6HP compressor can't keep up for spraying an entire car. Unless you plan on using the compressor for other stuff and painting yer car a piece at a time, I'd say rent the 11HP one. HVLP guns? That's all I've ever used really so I can't comment on the other guns. I just know HVLP is always advertised as more efficient with better material savings. Metallics are fairly easy to spray, just don't spray it really wet or the metallic will run and look ugly. Practice on some parts first to get the hang of it. I've never sprayed kandy before (yet) but I've heard it is more difficult (and expensive!). Good luck painting your car!

I'm not too sure about that. This T5 is from the beginning before the 'world class' T5s that are in the later mustangs. I've also heard they don't last too long? But anyway, I chose it because it has similar ratios to the original 4 speed but a greater overdrive gear than the std nissan 5 speeds. So I can enjoy the stock engine's power, and have good cruising rpms.

I'm currently doing this swap on my 71. There's really not much to it. A lot of the swap is parts swapping but some fabrication is involved. The shifter needs to be replaced or modified to fit, and a new trans crossmember must be used. Since I have a little fabrication experience under my belt I've managed to create a new crossmember from parts of the new and original ones, and I'll bend a mustang shifter to fit throught the shifter hole. You need a driveshaft from the donor as well as the flange off the differential. Overall it's really not all that difficult, but I would swap in a regular five speed and get a different differential instead if I had to do it all again. Check out this site for more info. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/borg.html

Just out of curiousity, how much does Rebello charge for a typical rebuild on an original engine? That 2.7 liter rebuild sounds cool, and it sure would give me some peace of mind instead of driving a 160K driven engine

I'm looking for a driveshaft from an 81-83 280zx turbo automatic for a T5 swap into a 240. I've heard these fit in perfect.

Does anyone know where I can get the gaskets that go between the air cleaner and the carbs on a stock 71 240? I tore them off the air cleaner when I painted it to match the car but now I can't find anyone who knows what I'm talking about let alone carry them. Thanks

There will be nothing but premium gas for my baby when she's back on the road, so I would like to squeeze more power out of the little motor. However I just finished up sealing the timing cover this evening so it's a little late now. Check out my gallery to see how the motor turned out

I put the sprocket in the other positions as well to see if it lined up any better and the first position is the closest. Aren't the other two positions for if your timing chain is wearing out?

Well I tore out all the timing stuff and reset the crank at TDC and put it all back together at the 1 mark on the sprocket. The marks are closer now for some reason (I hate it when that happens:tapemouth ). However they don't quite line up. The sprocket mark is just at the right edge of the thrust plate mark. Is this acceptable or should it be dead center matched? Thanks for any replies

I'm currently in the process of reassembling my engine. I purchased a timing chain kit and started to put everything together on the front of the engine, but the cam sprocket timing mark won't line up when the crank is at TDC. When the notch is lined up the crank is two marks from TDC on the harmonic balancer according to the timing pointer. I realize there's three different orientations on the cam sprocket to advance and retard the cam but should everything line up on 1 when I replace all the front end pieces? Any help greatly appreciated

I hate to keep harassing you guys. I've never rebuilt an engine, only torn them down; so I'm being really cautious through this process and I need some advice. I've spent the day tearing the engine down to just the short block. Now I have some questions. When I took the water pump off a thick clear/yellowish substance came out (about the consistency of runny egg white); I'm guessing the water pump took a dump with its fluid into the block but I'm not sure. If it is, can I just back flush the block when I'm getting it ready to go again and wash it all out? 2 freeze plugs seem to have been rusting for a while and leaked coolant down the side of the block causing that to develop some surface rust as well. Should I sand blast the block before I paint it or just go at it with sand paper. I don't plan on rebuilding the entire engine but if I have to I will. Could someone check out the link at the bottom of the post and give an assesment of what I've got going for me? The engine ran fine except for an overheating problem I have yet to track down, and there is no sludge in the oil. I appreciate everyone's help. Thanks Here's the link to engine pics http://people.ucsc.edu/~crearly/temp.htm

So to save money, I'd like to change the cam out myself. I'm pretty good with engines, but I remember when I was ordering my cam from MSA the rep told me there was a peculiar thing about putting in cams on Zs that most people don't know to do and end up ruining it. I can't remember what it was, does this sound familiar? Thanks

Can I spin the oil pump itself with a drill to get some oil spread around? I remember me and a friend doing it on a ford 302 before we got it started. We used a socket that fit the oil pump shaft and an extension then spun it.

Oh and can I use carbuerator cleaner on the engine parts? I'm not having much luck with engine degreaser. Thanks