Nismo37

I flushed it out as best I could in my garage today and got clean water coming out but I didn't do a complete flush through the block drain. I probably need that. I'm just hoping I don't have a head gasket problem.

I changed the oil and it seems fine but the coolant is NASTY! Check out the attached image of the thermostat. I'm assuming it's just really old coolant that's coagulated. If I've got rust issues in there are there any additives to help remedy that or slow it down? Could it be that I have a head gasket problem? Any good flushes besides good old water that anyone would recommend? I'm assuming the previous owner used tap water with the coolant.

I recently picked up a 240z from an old guy that's had it for decades. It's in really great shape but hasn't been driven in awhile. I changed th oil when I got it home and have put a couple hundred miles on it. I noticed that it's leaking coolant in several places, one spot seems to be coming from where the head and block meet but definitely from a couple of the hoses. I started draining the coolant to flush it and found it to be very milky. I've attached a pic. It's not smoking or overheating so if there is something going on with the head gasket it doesn't appear to be severe yet. Anyone have any ideas of what the issue could be?

Hey Guys, I have a 1970 S30 that I'm slowly restoring. It's a pretty straight and rust free car. The body panels are pretty wavy with it being so thin. I'm a ways out from having the money to have it painted and I'm thinking about having a wrap done on it until I have the funds to have a paint job done that will do the car justice. I'm at SEMA this week and I'm happy with how our vehicles turned out with their wraps and I've seen some pretty sweet wraps on other vehicles. Should I do a wrap to make the car look nice until I can get around to painting it? How bad would the imperfections in the body show?

Yes he exists. I've been there personally and have bought several items from him including an engine. I upgraded my cooling system to that of a 280z, mine still had the old metal fan shroud and fan. I have pictures too. Probably 250 z's of various models and years, mostly 240's - 300zx. Lots of 280's. He also has a couple of barns full of parts from body panels to drive train stuff. He doesn't appear to have a website but his name is Kim Blough (208)466-0004. Located in Nampa Idaho. He's mostly retired but if you can pin him down he's a wealth of knowledge. His business is called Idaho Z Car.

My car was built in 1970, the original owner whom I bought it from stated it has the R180 differential so I'm assuming it's the forward mounted diff. The original L24 w/E31 head gave out on me a few months back. I've had the car since May. A loose cam bolt walked a pin loose and bent my valves. I had the clutch replaced and got a used L26 from the guy with all the Z stuff that I'm running until I can get the original engine rebuilt.

There is a local Z guru near my home that has hundreds of old Z cars and a couple barns full of parts. He's the one that pointed out the difference. If you google "240Z drive shaft lenght" you'll see some information on it as well. My u-joints do clunk a little going into gear but there is an annoying growling noise coming from the rear at 30 mph and above.

Hey guys. I've got a series 1 240Z that I'm slowly restoring as I drive it. I've developed an intermittent grinding noise from the rear that I'm fairly certain is the U-joint... possibly wheel bearings. Either way, I know the early Z's have u-joint issues due to the drive shaft length and a popular fix is changing to a 280z drive shaft. What other parts need to be replaced in addition? Are the u-joints on the Z's overly difficult?

OK guys so I've determined that I need to do my clutch. I work for NAPA but the clutch kit for the 240Z is now obsolete and I can't get one through work. So far the options I've found are two kits from Rock Auto ranging from $95 to $125 and one from thezstore.com for $145. Do you guys have any recommendations?

It's an early 1971. Build date of 11/70. I've tried getting involved but I've also found them to be pretty inactive.

By the way. Since you're close by. Are you a member of the ZCCI (Z Car Club of Idaho)? Do they get together at all anymore?

I typically idle in neutral and leave the clutch pedal alone. The noise does repeat at regular intervals and it sounds like it's hitting something. It just recently started making the noise.

Hey Guys, I just drove 240Z home 600 miles last weekend and she ran like a top. Now that I've gotten to know the car a little bit more I've noticed that clutch slips a little in 1st gear when starting from a stop. In the past couple of days there is a loud chatter/bang that comes from the transmission or clutch when I'm idling. The noise mostly goes away when I depress the clutch or get the RPM's up a fair amount. Any ideas?

The highest octane i can find without ethanol in it is 90. I'm also at a higher elevation too which should help.

I drove the car 600 miles home to Boise from California and I'm starting to get more familiar with how the car sounds. I had to fill up with 87 in the middle of nowhere because it was all that was available and I was running low. I think I might be getting a little detonation because the motor has that old school VW beetle sound under load. I'll fill up with highest I can find. If the highest isn't 95 what do you think about Octane boosters? Also do you guys run a lead attitive?