Freez74

I think the throttle issue is related to the bellcrank on the firewall under the hood. On my 74 I noticed the the angle from the bellcrank to the auxiliary throttle shaft was somewhat extreme, so I cut the upper arm off a spare bellcrank and welded it on higher up on the tube. This reduced the angle to the throttle shaft and made it a little easier to control the application. I got this idea looking at an early 240 bellcrank.

Thanks, Captain. The steering seems to work smoothly, just wanted to see if there was anything I could do since the car sat for so long.

According to the drawing Zed provided, it applies only up to July 73 models. I'm referring to the caption at the bottom.

Right, it does seem there is something there, but I was unable to get a picture of that side. But my passenger side is definitely different from JFA's.

The picture JFA posted is on the passenger's side.

I took a look at my rack and there does not appear to be any plug or place for a grease fitting. Must be a 260Z difference. Not sure if I want to try to take the boots off, but that looks like the only way in.

Thanks guys, the location of the plastic plug is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. I could not see any external access to the rack without going through the boots. I'll see if I can locate the plug today and put some oil or grease in there.

Without disassembling it or removing from the car? Hoping there might be a way to put a little oil or grease in there. My car sat for many years without being driven, and the lubricant may be a bit dried up. Thanks

View Advert OEM Wiper Blade Wanted Does anyone have a factory OEM used wiper blade they would like to sell? Wire frame type, for a 260Z. Thanks, Gary Advertiser Freez74 Date 04/04/2024 Price $1 Category Parts Wanted Year 1974 Model 260Z

That's a good idea, I have the same problem with the neck chafing.

Looks like you got it! I've been happy with mine since I got it to fit right. It is much louder than stock exhaust.

I installed one of those systems last year, and it fit poorly. Had to heat and bend the mid pipe to get it to clear the floor, and the rear pipe was too long. I cut a one inch section out of it in the straight part, and put it back together with a 2.5 inch band clamp.

I found that out the hard way, also. I didn't want to take the door panel off after all that trouble.

They are glued on before the door panel is installed, cover the open space between the window frame and door.

The seals look like #1 in the top drawing.

On the window scraper, after removing the original staples I drilled the holes out with a tiny drill bit and secured the retainer with some galvanized wire from the hardware store. I had no way to duplicate the staple, just cut a short piece of wire and bend it flat.

The rubber mounts should help. I think the vibration is mostly caused by the compressor type, I haven't noticed any with the Sanden hard mounted. But, I have some GM cars with R4s and they are very noisy.

That should work, the Volvo looks similar to a Sanden. I used these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322340057943

Looks like a good plan. I did something similar, but used a 14"x18" condenser and a Sanden copy compressor on the driver's side. You sure like to use Volvo parts!

Does the orifice tube repair kit allow you to locate it away from the evaporator?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-69/

Some kind of rubber sealant they used to keep the joints from leaking around the frame. I cleaned it off and duplicated it as best I could with Ultra Black RTV. Seems to work ok.

I have a replacement clutch from Rock Auto and it does not seem to disengage at highway speed. Rather annoying. Not sure what brand it is.

Did the shop replace your fan clutch when they worked on the radiator?

Obviously very different, but I can't find exactly when the change occurred. I have seen those available in a few places also. The 73 model looks like my 74.