Bruce Woolmore

I have a 280Z that has been converted to RHD; nearly crashed the thing this weekend in the rain when the car fogged up; Like you guys I found a blower motor that seems to work, and all sorts of mysterious vacuum-operated flaps that flip and flop but no air from demister vents and bugger all at full fan from the centre dash vents - in short , useless. It doesnt help that the car has been ****ed around with so much (from LHD injected to RHD Mikuni) So I hope you guys can shed some light on how to get it hurling gobs of air about the place.

... hey alfadog I know about the US 280Z, I OWN one! :-) some dumb .. went to the trouble of bringing mine in to NZ and converting to RHD, I finished the job by throwing away those horrible bumpers! So now I have basically a 260Z - except my car is all kitted out for EFI, even though it now has triples on it. (for our US friends - the 280Z was never sold outside the US, we only ever saw the 280ZX) My personal opinion (and yes, I have owned 2 240Zs previously) - and really that is all this thread is about, opinion - is that 240Z = 260Z = 280Z - all S30 bodyshell, same drivetrain, etc - yes the 280Z is heavier , but nothing a bit of engine work cant fix! they handle the same (except my 280Z steering seems quite a lot heavier - club experts, is that normal??) oh yes, my 280Z doors close with a lovely solid clunk unlike the crash and rattle of the 240Z doors - shame I have to carry those big intrusion bars for the privilege! 280ZX is a different car really, although I have to confess to liking the 280ZX coupe, not the 2+2 - but then I never did like the 260 2+2 either! or the Jag E-type 2+ 2! stylists, theres a message there! but I digress ... I really think the Z line ended with the 280Z, despite Nissans badge engineering - I'm sure the 350Z is a great car (have to say that , I've yet to have a blat in one!) but in my eyes it would have had more credibility with a Godzilla engine in it, or a hairy-chested V8 - It is really a 300ZX successor, which itself got a lot of praise (esp the twin turbo version) but you had to wear rose-tinted specs to see any link to the 240Z line. but i'm happy to hear other rationalisation, kids!!

I've noticed a lot of guys referring to their 280ZX's as a 280Z! now what is with that?? do they think there is no difference? or are they embarrassed to admit that they only own a 280ZX? :-) ..and if that doesnt start a flame war, I'll have another try - do you think that history will consider the 350Z to be an extension of the 300ZX line??after all it has that V6, not the nice inline six like the Skyline and proper Z!

think they're Dellorto jets, dude!

Hi Guys, I'm still considering switching from the Mikunis to EFI; has anyone installed this system, and if so how did it go? http://www.racetep.com/weber/weberfi.html

Ferarri 275 GT - notice its resemblance to another car we're fond of??

would prefer R200 but R180 ok too. let me know price and where you are, or can swap 3.7 R200.

have to agree with most of the opinions just voiced - its just an attempt by Nissan to recapture the magic (=sales!) of the 240Z; very flattering , sure, but I think they missed the mark I don't necessarily agree with the "too soft" stuff - I remember when I was in the TR6 club and a member committed the heinous crime of buying a new 240Z - we all agreed it went bloody well, and left the TRs for dead in the corners - but had no character! ..times change! but I feel the 250Z would be more memorable if the performance was a bit above the rest, just like the 240Z's was back then - the V6 has never had any charisma, put a damn Nissan alloy V8 in it, or the Godzilla straight six! But .. I have to agree with the comment that it reminds everyone about the wonderful 240Z!!

find the little sucker (probably still inside your booster!) and reassemble!

The Mk63 set I have also had slight fouling problems with the 14" Enkei mags that I wanted to put on the car, so it may not be worth all the trouble to use with standard rotors - I might just look at going straight to a vented solution. thanks for shedding a bit more light on that, Alan!

I have seen this said a few times, could possibly be your problem? "IMPORTANT: When removing the brake booster, or installing a used one, it is critical that you do not pull out the engine-bay side pushrod of the brake booster. The so-called "reaction disc", which is a solid rubber disc about the diameter of a quarter, can fall off inside the booster. The result will very poor brake feel - you will have a deep spongy pedal and then all of the sudden you will get full braking and the car will stand on its nose."

I have a set of the MK63 calipers, and found the idea intresting that these could be used in a vented rotor application - they seem too narrow ?

I just did a first pass on the dyno for my car, same setup as you but triple Mikunis: so far 114 rwhp, 212fp torque but prob another 10% to come once timing sorted.

cross over to this thread guys, and you'll find out a bit more! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10145&highlight=Throttle+body

just guessing, but it isnt the cam oiler bending against the cam when it heats up, is it? regardless, keep an eye on that solder repair - I've had 2 240Zs, and that crappy oiler clapped out on both of them, and soldering only worked for a while on that "muck metal" - the Nissan repalcement oielr was actually a pressed steel arrangement, so they obviously wised up later! good luck!

since he has left the injector mounts in the manifold, it allows you to use your triple carbs just as throttle bodies (easier tuning etc) and still have the improved flow of the individual runners (vs the original EFI manifold) - might try that meself!

as many of us have learned, its very easy to get this wrong, as a shorter spring can end up riding HIGHER if it is very stiff for a Zwith stock 100mm diameter springs, the formula in Puhn's book "How to make your car handle" can be simplified to: "W^4 * 23438 / N" where W^4 is the wire gauge in mm to the fourth power, and N is the number of active coils (= free coils + .5) e.g. for 11.3mm wire springs, poundage is 918 lb/coil. this will give you the poundage of the spring, so you can work out what the compressed length will be from the cars weight at each corner.

...I very much agree with SteveK, though the TR6 in the non-US maket (Lucas PI) would be a good match for a stock Zed - but like Steve, I got sick of my brit sporties falling to bits. I had a paper weight made up of my TR's broken spider gears, joined on to its stub axle with the sheared keyways, with the split axle flange at the end! three separate incidents! that sums up TRs! but yes, great styling (courtesy Ghia), lovely sounding engine, I'd own them all again , in a flash - for a fine weekend but stick to that wonderfully reliable truck, the Zed, for the serious stuff! I couldn't agree more when they named it the spiritual successor to the Big Healey. Now will history be so kind to the 350Z? can't help feeling they lost something when they didnt put a Skyline straight six in it!

"The engine I have in car now is a L28 completely stock. .. I am using the 44's and an electric fuel pump as fitted to the 73 and 74 USA Z. Mine is a 72." Choke Tube: 34mm Jet Block: OA Air Jet: 180 Fuel Jet: 140 Pilot Jet: 57.5 Fuel pressure regulator set at 3.5 psi "I finally added the regulator this summer and wish I had done it sooner. The engine runs much better and smoother. It is also now more sensitive to tuning changes. Especially the mixture screw on each carb."

feedback from some references: "I'm running 3 x 40PHH-S with 32mm chokes on a Harada inlet manifold, Option 76 Degree cam, larger valves, raised compression and some porting of the ( E88 ) head. Exhaust system starts at an Option manifold running into a full stainless twin-pipe up and over layout. On my current setup the Main Jets are 160s and the Air Corrector / Main Air Bleed are 210s. All other settings and sizes are stock for the 'S' model 40PHH" The stock 44PHH Mikuni jetting for the L-series sixes ( as recommended by Nissan's tech staff ) sold as Sports Option parts was as follows: MAIN VENTURI = 37mm MAIN JET = 160 AIR CORRECTOR JET = 180 PILOT JET = 55 EMULSION TUBE ( "JET BLOCK" ) = 8 f your Emulsion Tubes are marked "OA" or "OB" on top then you would be well advised to seek out a set of six "8" types and install them instead. This will be a great help with driveability and part-throttle response. The OA and OB are best left to racers, and are not as good as the 8 for the street. the Nismo kit (16010-E4620) defaults: Main Jet 175 Air Jet 250 Pilot Jet 55 Venturi 37 Jet Block -?? the factory Mikuni America defaults for the L24/26/28 Main 150 Air Jet 200 Pilot Jet 57.5 Venturi 34 Jet Block OA pump jet 40