NoLeafClover

I'll post a pic when I get home around 7 or so pm of the hose. It leaks coolant when it decides to Spray any flu I'd otherwise it just hisses loudly. The clamps are new but I think the hose may be the wrong size. And as for the fan the one it has on it is electric and is wired to come on as soon as the key turns. The ther most at is brand new and it's a 180 as someone recommended to get. I'm thinking the gas tank may be dirty, because when I pulled the old fuel filter off after ml some clean fuel came out it became red and heavy with what appeared to be rust particulate.

I generally say (with any car) that it hasn't overheated until it's spewed coolant/Antifreeze/water. This zx does that as if it has bulimia.

I have yet to clean the throttle body, and as I look at everything more I realize a few things may be fixed with a proper cleaning. The throttle linkage is a little floppy and sticky at the same time. It wants to stay turned but it also wants to play hopscotch. The tube that leaks air only does it when it overheats, which is still every drive after about 2 miles or 30 minutes of idle with minimal revving to keep it alive. I can see about taking a picture of it but that would be tomorrow. It's underneath the fuel rail towards the front of the block and it's only about 4 or 5 inches of rubber hose with clamps on either side. Oh, and the radiator doesn't fit. It's zip tied onto the front frame. And before I forget I ordered a cold air intake for my other vehicle some time ago, then forgot and bought one at t he local store. May it help with my heat problem?

Sorry it's sideways...

It's been a fee days since I reported back and I apologize, I had to work overtime and literally worked myself sick. I have put in a new thermostat and I have found a few small air leaks in the vacuums. I also replaced the starter unit and solenoid, new gas filter, new battery and terminals, and added heat treatment to the coolant. It still runs hot and blows hot air out of a bad seal but I have the hose on order so there's nothing to do but wait. I've discovered the fan and radiator are off of a 99 toyota Tacoma, the coolant catching reservoir is off of a 2001 honda civic, and the alternator was not even plugged in. I've remedied the alternator issue, but even still with premium gas I'm having issues with rough idle and popping/ bogging under a load. If I try to start it without pressing the gas a little more than I feel should be necessary it stalls and dies. And when I'm test driving when I shift at 4k or higher I have to let it roll until 2 before completing the shift and pressing the gas/ releasing the clutch or it jumps and pops and cuts in and out. I have msd wires/ distributor and a blaster 2 coil on it, I've ordered a new fuel pump as a last resort because I just cannot fathom what else it could be. Also my throttle body is near black inside. Does this mean anything? My phone refuses to post a video but I will post pics of the throttle blackness.

I'll post an idle video

I get ahead of myself, I'll admit. But it's gotten worse after adding oil treatment and fluid to the radiator to seal any leaks. Now it pops loudly about every other second to every 5 seconds. Some smaller and close together and some loud and lonely.

The number one problem I have that scares me is the high revving, that's the correct screw with the arrow and I watched him tighten it as he said it was going to change things.

I checked under the throttle body and I have no spring. Is there a certain type I can purchase at the parts store or is it something I'll have to put on order?

The bolt that's higher than the other one next to it is the one the guy had out more while he drove it and turned it in more and told me that'd make it idle better but I'd lose power.

This is the throttle piece that won't turn back to normal after I press the pedal

This is the tube I meant in the beginning had a tear in it.

The screw on the side of the cover in the s first picture is the one I meant he tightened to alter the idle...

I now realisee I have no clue how to post all these pictures from my mobile...

I will go out and take pictures if the poor beast in a minute, my seven year old misplaced my boots.

Also, I have some various questions jus to make sure I'm not missing anything. How many belts should be coming off the front of the motor? I see two pulleys but only have one belt... should I have to use force to turn it at a slow speed? I have no clue why but I do have to almost entirely manually turn the wheel in low gears or low speeds. Could the massive exhaust tip it has on it be a problem? It's a 4 inch I believe. What can I do to keep it from overheating even with fresh water/ coolant in it? Is it possible the.aftermarket rear end in it is messing up anything like my speedometer or anything at all? Maybe the bogging and popping are from it as well? It says I'm doing 80 in first gear... so I know the speedometer is definitely out of whack.

I got a new belt on the alternator and that worked wonders, thanks for all the info and admittedly yes I was very upset with my new car. I was told it was a good DD, and I had to limp it to the parts store 2 miles from home. The guys there said they didn't know squat about a ZX (sorry if I left that out, it's the 5 speed 79 z model), but one guy said he knew basic mechanics enough to say I had some problems bigger than an air leak. I went over everything with text instructions from my dad, but all I noticed out of whack visibly was the throttle stick thingy doesn't want to turn back to naught after a good pushing, and the screw on the motor that alters the idle was ALL the way down. It's running very hot and popping and bogging down if I lay on the gas or switch gears at anything over 4k rpm. I'm not very knowledgeable on terminology so excuse my childish word floundering. NoLeafClover, 79 model 280zx.

Okay, I just boughat my first Z earlier today. My father owned the same 79 280zx model back when I was a kid and Damn it was awesome. I want to rebuild what he had and restore this one to its full potential but I just can't catch a glimpse of that happening. I've been battling with it since I got it home (I drove it 40 some miles with no more than some minor bumping in the front left tin rod and high revs in neutral and between shifts). I go to inspect my prize and I see chaos. The tube behind the mass air flow module (or what I believe to be) had been wrapped several times with electrical tape. Turns out it had a massive tear. Then I got it going again to test the high revs and it started going up and down between 2 and 3k rpms like it was galloping. Soon after it stalled. I was told it had a leaky exhaust manifold seal but this was not something I know to become of that. I started it back up and it launched the alternator belt clean off. I put it back on after turning the car off and it hasn't stayet running since. I tried puting it on both pulleys coming from the block but neither seems to make a difference. It'll run for five or six minutes and die a slow startling jumpy death. What all am I dealing with here!?!? Have I just thrown 2 grand away??