gacksen

some time ago found a rotten 280zx in a garage they guy was parting out. didn´t want to do any more work on the car so drove there today and started to take the gearbox and diff out. have seldom seen so much rust in total on a car but it seemed it stood outside for a long long time. engine and gearbox were running no prob and diff seems to be ok too. if i remember correctly it should be a 82 NA 280ZX. not sure if there is a difference in gearbox and diff rations on the european cars ? some pictures of the items that got rescued diff was a messy job. all the nuts shot but managed to get it loose. the rear bolts of the diff came out as nuts were shot currently thinking of getting the motor too. N54 block and P90A head. dont realy know what to do with it maybe built a second stroker if my engine goes bang but what ive read nobody uses the P90A head ?

have the vintage ruber ones on the door. of course fitment was easy but doors close hardly. havent tried to softem them up with a heat gun due to bad weather but not that happy for the price...

good news with the wipers. do you know which other car uses the same complete wiper assembly ?

youre right paint should be #110 Red. It has been repainted outside but it is not a full 100 percent match with the interior red. not obvious if you don´t take a real close look. did prep the floorboards with rustbuster. they seemed to be clean but once you apply the stuff it shows different. similar thing here with the interior. in the first place i did not want to switch color. we tried to match color headliner seats and plastic parts. almost no chance. tried to clean the vinyl headliner to see its original color and it´s more kind of cream than white so problem with new plastic parts as they are deeper color as the rest. so we skipped the white and now we get the whole picture in black. interior sparco seats rollbar carpet plastic parts are already finished in black and ready to go. next will be front screen comes out for new headliner and floorpans get painted red again. next will be new wiring of the wideband lambda and the greddy gauge. rest of the gauges will be kept to keep the classic look.

had some time those days and the weather is soso so started working on the car again. removed the stuff that had been on the floorboards to take a closer look if there is any rust before the new interior comes in. nothing major but rust oil and dirt needs to be cleaned up. as the dash needs to come out anyway pulled that too. one of those heater bolts drove me crazy but after some time got that done too. frontscreen will be taken out the next days as a new one comes in and fresh headliner needs to be fitted too.

got the carbs set up the last two days and one of those 123 tune ignition distributors in the car. currently just lot´s of rain so had to prep the car some days prior with loads of fluidfilm to prevent any rust and to soften up the old sealing below the car. around 5L went in all the wholes and under the car. acceleration bog is now gone and car is crisp on thew throttle. wasnt quite cheap but good addy to go to. friendly service and youre allowed to stay in the workshop while the work is done and anything in regards of carbs get´s explained in detail. my carbs had been from 2003 and needed a full refurb. as engine wise anything is almost done i can leave that aside and continue with the interior. in the meanwhile new flywheel and two gearbox rebuilt kit´s have arrived.

as the brakes have been alright now and filled with ATE blue fluid got the geo setup properly today. Thanks to the ACZ components that saved quite some time during the setup. seemed to be a good investment to lower the spring rates on the front and rear and car handles now spot on.

it seems they just put them back and put pressure on the system. as they are now they are spot on. hopefully the weather will be nice tmr and ill give it a go

case closed cleaned the garage of all the brake fluid mess. slept a night over it and gave it a go some hours ago. problem has not been MC or prop valve. it was just air in the rear calipers. didn´t even touch the pressure bleeder or rebleed the MC. jacked thar up and followed the advice with the bleeder at the rear claipers beeing not at the highest point. before that went to the auto store and bought a new can of ATE racing blue brake fluid. pushed the pedal first and went to see if there are any bubbles in the hose. i can tell you there were some. didn´t think the angle would make that much of a difference. next thing the speedbleeders are air tight on the threads. no problem with that. did the other side of the rears without touch the fronts until the fluid went all blue. got the car of the ramps and checked the pressure. it is better than i got it out of the shop and what they did had been a pressure bleed. i want to thank you all for your helpfull advice to solve my problem so i can continue the restoration on the car

first of all absolutely great write up ! after 3 hours i skipped it for today. what i did had been the following : 1. switched back to the old rubber hoses on the rears just in case. 2. bled the master. first reservoir next to booster then the front one. clear hose from bleeder into reservoir. bleeder maybe 1/4 turn open. both reservoirs no bubbles at all. unknown factor is the bleeder as i did it by myself as girlfriend motiviation had been soso means kept pumping the pedal for some time. don´t think the bleeder will suck in air in the thread area but of course can´t tell for sure. 3. put the car on 4 jacks and for better access. started rear right same thing 1/4 turn speedbleeder open with clear hose in fluid canister.kept pushing the padal for 15x times. reservoir level then had been about 1/3. refilled the reservoir of rear brakes and repeated the process. pulled the handbrake some times but didn´t make a difference. unknown factor same as above would be the thread of the speedbleeder as i did it alone. don´t think it sucks air from the thread as the had been no fluid in the thread area. 4. repeated the steps on all 4x calipers twice. conclusion in the case nothing has changed at all. front reservoir for the rear brakes keeps on moving while fluid level of the fronts stays level. As the car had been jacked up anyway and i had some time tried the following : 1. connected clear hose to fron´t left caliper and rear left caliper. opened the bleeder 1/4 turn and started pumping. of course fluid level will drop differently i guess due to the brake balance of front and rears so front reservoir will be low on fluid earlier compared to the rears. thought maybe there is something blocked due to the pressure imbalance but it does not seem so. made a picture of my front and rear calipers and can tell you...... brake fluid is the same hazzle as graphite grease [] two hours had passed and still no success on the brakes so i stared looking and found an old pressure bleeder that will be connected to a spare tire. when taking a look to all those brake lines espcially the rear one they are above the bleeder. as the pressure bleeder was meant to be used for reservoirs with a thread on it and those in the car doesnt have one had to use a different construction. checked the tire pressure and it had been 1.4 bar on the spare wheel. so searched for some clamps to get it kind of fixed on top but wasn´t succesfull. ended up with big cable ties and i guess you know the rest of the story once pressure was on after cleaning up the mess and thinking about what had been done in the past on the car. was in the workshop for new wheelbaerings and they bleed the brakes without any problems. changed springs on the front dampers before that and drove the car to them with brakes no bleeded they managed to get it done. maybe just more pressure of an air pressure bleeders is needed to get rid of the air trapped in the rears ? don´t know the age of the master....

will try the master again. nothing has been installed except of braided hoses on the rear.after 4h i thought maybe there is air in the master thats why the brakes won´t bleed so i bleed it with hose attached to the bleeder into the reservoir but barely bubbles had been comming up. all bleeders are up to the calipers. don´t know how much fluid i ran through the system but it was quite a lot. strange thing is brakes worked before so i don´t have any clue where the fault is. especially why fluid of the rear brakes drops down and comes up and fluid of the front discs stays level all the time. should the fluid level be steady while pressing in both reservoirs or is there any movement up down normal ?

spent two hours reading several posts but could not find any answer :ogre: changed the rear rubber hoses to braided ones the last days and tried to bleed the system today. first bleed the tandem master with rubber hoses attached to the bleed screws into the reservoirs until no air came out. have speed bleeders all around so started on the rear passenger side first. then rear driver, passenger front and driver front side until no air came out of all the calipers just plain fluid. have willwood fronts and started to bleed the inner valve of the caliper first. checked for leakes of any kind and there seem to be none. system is not losing and fluid. checked for any wilwood proportioning valve but there seems to be none in sight. when i press the pedal it is full soft and brake light goes on. if i press it again say within 1 second and pump the brakes will get pressure on the pedal and it feels normal but after waiting 5 seconds pressure is gone and i would have to pump it again. what i noticed with reservoir caps off the fluid in the reservoir tank for the front brakes stays level while pressing the pedal. the reservoir tank of the rear brakes drops fluid down around 1/4 inch while pressing. after some seconds fuild level will go up again. i guess it corresponding with the brake pressure. is there and secret trick as i don´t know what to do else ?

thx Jeff for the tip. didnt know that there is a difference in the rating. so i guess our 102 octance pump fuel available will be around 95 in the us rating. seems need to check the timing the engine is running.

will get the suspension set up next week after have installed the rear sway bar again. currently waiting for new EBC brake pads to arrive to continue work. as it started to rain again some nice driving from southern france this year

got some time today and fitted in the rear sway bar again. mounts differ and the bar had not been supposed to work with the ACZ parts. made some changes widend some polybushes from another car and finally got it in. more work as expected as the whole suspension and exhaust had to be taken off again. doorcards and the whole intererior except seats consonsole dash headliner is out the car. with the headliner will wait until the new windscreen will arrive. anything elese get´s covered in black leather. floorboards will be cleaned and painted. further some dynamats will come in. does anybody know where to get those seat back vents of the original seats ?

when i got my car i started to wet sand it with 2000 and 3000 paper. after that gave it a good polish with the 3M system to get rid of all the smaller scratches. took me 3 days but worth the effort. i guess it was a so called street paint job with a lot of orange peel now you won´t notice.

had a single magnflow rear box with 3" pipe in the car. made 118db at 3750rpm. put in a second big one on the long straight pipe and volume went down to 109db at same rpm. sound is good but would prefer a more high pitch tone.

the old ones have more soul as the new ones if you rev that thing to 8K rpm it realy starts to scream and makes some nice pops and bangs on the overrun. this had been there top model but prices went straight up the recent years into a non afordable range. TVR Sagaris - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and the torque is 227 lbft head is a N42

had it on the dyno today with the carbs not set up. quite unsure whats inside the motor in regards of cam springs head work done etc. seems like it is a stroker actually and my guess with 200+ had not been far off normally there must be some more in it. also don´t know for what fuel the carbs had been set up and what is standard fuel in the US ? we have a min standard 95 octane. will get it set up at 98 as this is available at every major gas station in germany. told the guy to not rev it beyond 6K rpm but the dyno figure seems like it is already making max power at 6K. Any suggestions welcome

It´s a UK car. TVR T350 TVR T350 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia around 300 of those are left and scattered around europe i guess. don´t know of any in the US as per import regulations.

give IOZ a call. should be 1.5H drive from Heidelberg. IOZ Zünd- und Vergasertechnik - Ihre Leidenschaft, unsere Profession They know their job and have a good reputation. Triple webbers wont be cheap so be prepared to spent some bucks.... In regards of location.... i live there where you live next to

cant tell exactly. would guess from the feel 200+ but wont give it full wot until the carbs are set up properly. have to modify the rear sway bar to fit the new rear suspension and get the geo set up. ordered some speed bleeders those days for the calipers to make life easy. new ebc yellow stuff brake pads are on their way and hankook rs3 waiting in the garage. would be great to get the federal rsr on the car but size is not available in 16" interior is almost pulled out and all the parts will be upholstered. color will be changed to black. new front windscreen will be coming in in 10 weeks time as on backorder. currently don´t see any light in the tunnel as still to much to do........

now with the correct spring setup

was looking like this

as the front is currently done and revised with H&R race springs as the eibachs had been to stiff started to work on the rear end with some goodies