ensys

While this is evolving toward the zietgiest of trophy shows, I would digress to the original question; "why me?" I would guess that the judges saw what was evident even in the low res foto, i.e. the surface texture (not the color). Remember, the covers are cast into a finished metal mold, so the surface of the cast piece should be as tight and smooth as the mold. One could presumably re-create an out-of-the-mold surface after abrasion by sanding, burnishing, etc., but then there is the issue of color. Of course, it is presumption on my part, but I should think the only way to avoid this "overprep" pitfall, would be to refrain from any abrasion treatment in the first place. I should think a more productive approach would be a chemical treatment that would homogenize the color without effecting the surface. Just $.02 from the "I never show" gallery.

Speaking of options.... Were there any of the very nicely fabbed headlight covers (glass(?) with chrome edging(?)) from the Factory? Maybe as a JDM item? They'd be almost worth drilling holes for (if they were verifyably Factory). Just curious.

"now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes" While bleeding? In operation? Did you ever get the second piston out of the Master Cylinder? All things considered, have you given any thought to installing a fully refreshed MC? Just a thought.

<bump> Still looking...

Hello, All: I'm looking for two OEM FI hose clamps to replace damaged ones on my '77 280Zs very original engine. While aftermarket versions are working for now, I consider them a temporary solution. Thank you for your attention.

A casual poke thru the Parts Manual shows that the 280 oil pan part no. was first used in the fifth mo. of '71.

Now folks, show some respect for what may be a very valuable car. According to the owner, you are looking at the world's only Front Wheel Drive Z. Ought to be worth a fortune.

I'm showing my age of course, but trying to buy a car off the web reminds me of Blanch's signature line from "Streetcar Named Desire", that "I have always depended on the kindness of strangers", a metaphor for tragic naivete. Ya gotta evaluate in the first person to do yourself right. Take the Z that started this thread. Only a personal visit could validate the possibility that it's wearing more original paint than just in the engine room and at the tail/around the hatch. Heck, my orig. '77 looks that good with a wash and a wax. It's possible. One might think curiosity alone would be worth a magnet and a good look at the underside of that puppy. So maybe the seller is as honest as Trump; you can still make a better deal with first-hand info. You'd be surprised how many sharp-dealers will cave in the face of the obvious. And after all, you've got one thing going for you; most rainbows for pot-o-gold cars end in California. But you won't find it sitting behind a computer. Just a thought....

I have always used the same product as the Factory (asphalt-based undercoat) because: - It is an effective, durable, and workable undercoating that seldom separates from the substrate when properly prepped or painted. - It blends well when patching or expanding the coverage. - It maintains the look of originality. - Application is nearly foolproof; just wash and let dry as prep. Also cleans up with WD-40. - The good stuff is still cheap.

No "lace-on cover" there. Looks like it (whatever it is) takes a pretty common 6-bolt adapter.

Mr.Z650: Well, since you asked... Disclaimer: these decisions are highly subjective and depend upon one's personal vision of use. I chose to continue the Z's role as a driver, biased toward open road work. Clearly, not a "boy racer" solution. For joints, I used names (like Moog) that I know and that provided service ports, i.e. "grease zerks", to provide safe operation and extended service lives. I replaced the ball joints, strng. rod ends, and top strut bearings, whether they needed it or not (last front end re-build was about 100K mi. ago (none actually "needed" replacement, thanks, I reckon, to regular servicing)). I replaced the old KYBs with new KYBs because they worked well with good control, lasted a long time, and remain very cost-effective. Interestingly, these were not used up yet either. New rubber bushings all around (particularly on the compliance rod ends, as I think some "compliance" is important here on a road car), with the exception of the lower control arm's pivot bushes. Urethane here because that's all one can use with the adjustable pivots. New rubber boots on the struts, and bellows for the steering rack. The top strut bushes (snubbers) did not require attention. I kept the original springs as they were not compromised by age/usage, and I like the one coil cut I put on them about 100K mi. ago. That's pretty much it, I guess. Of course, all the suspension pieces were cleaned and re-coated for preservation prior to re-assembly. All now good to go for another 200K mi. That was my approach.

Mr.650: Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one. Just an observation... PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite some years now.

" Can't believe a mechanic thought it might be $138K miles". Frankly, I'm with the mechanic. I find it improbable that in the first, apparently casual, 38K mi,. the oil press gauge would fail. Even more so that after mulling his options, he would elect to add an aftermarket gauge on his young and still newish Z. Further, if it were I, I'd be wondering about the paint thickness too. I think a leisurely exam of the undercarriage would be illuminating. Anecdotally, add this kind of moral ambiguity to the bald-faced baloney from the seller and the peanut gallery, how is it wrong to think life on the web is more s**t than Shinola. What is that old saying about a fool and his money? $.02 from a different peanut gallery.

Cowabunga! The BIC pen gambit is a fine bit of inspiration. Sometimes the obvious solutions are the hardest to ken. Thanks Dennis. Ah, Mr.Kwin; nice to hear from a kindred spirit. As most of my posts were blown out in a zillion small pieces, I will have to make the most of the pen idea. The only issue might be plastic type, but I've just re-done the pesky console break using an Oatley multi-blend billed as good for ABS, PVC, etc., so we will see. So, its off to Office Depot for a few BIC sticks. Still cheaper than the rods I bought, and no careful drilling req'd. Now, if I can find the right diameter of thin wall tubing to sheath the posts (to prevent cracking when threading the first time), I'll have every base covered. On a related point, I set out to straighten the tall side of the console that had developed a very wavy edge that I figure induced additional stress on the short side where the breaks developed. It took some fair heat (handle with care), but I got it straightened out before re-gluing the opposite side. Incidentally, don't underestimate the ashtray frame's part in maintaining the console's geometry around the hole.. Thanks one and all for getting into this and for the excellent suggestions.

That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cuts for the spare lid and on the actual floor over the bin lids. So again, anyone know where a fellow could get a pair of the Factory bin lids these days? Any thoughts on a fair price for them?

That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cuts for the spare lid and on the actual floor over the bin lids. So again, anyone know where a fellow could get a pair of the Factory bin lids these days? Any thoughts on a fair price for them?

The "fuel capacity" thing is correct (a real surprise for web info). The parts manual clearly shows the difference in the spare tire indentation in the top of the two tanks. I'm not sure about the "extra reinforcing" part, but the change prompted a vertical rise behind the seats and some bolt-on vertical risers (at the front of the spare well and a couple-four bent metal posts that also anchor the luggage straps) to support the new false floor. Oh yeah, and the change occasioned the loss of 5 or 6 cu. ft. of usable storage in the back. I've been trolling around for a "skinny" emergency spare that would allow me to reclaim much of the lost volume above the carpet, not to mention the use of the now-buried cubbies behind the front bulkhead. Speaking of which; anyone know a source of the original metal cubby lids? The aftermarket offerings generally suck.

The repair of the first break by the ash tray actually went well (from some years ago), owing to the piece of compatible plastic I used for the bridging backing. The second, not so much so, as I couldn't come up with another good backing piece (a hunk of a poly-something battery case, as I recall) in my garage . The piece left a very clear impression in all the cyclo-crazy glue and epoxy that I used. The disappointment (an befuddlement) stems from the fact that all that adhesive did not hold the break together. I'm thinking to try roughing the piece up, maybe drill a few small holes, if I can't come up with another piece of styrene, since it seems unlikely that I will find a glue that holds both. I can see the merit of the fiberglas mat, but I would like something with some more body; that run past the ash tray hole is the weakest spot on the console body and needs all the strength it can get. But the Oatley adhesive looks promising. I'm still working out a strategy for the lid's shattered screw posts. Maybe I can find some ABS rod somewhere....

The lid is original to the car and is shown in the parts manual, albeit rather casually. The lid is listed as one piece, as is the torsion rod hinge assembly and the latch (which is actually 3 pieces). To the best of my knowledge, there is no repro available; only highly modified replacements. While it was the broken screw posts that prompted the investigation, it's OCD that prompts an attempted "repair" of this original part. I did cruise evilbay for a while before buying a replacement lid that the seller pinkie-swore was in "very good" condition. Of course, it was not; in fact, it was worse than the original piece, not to mention the missing bits.. Well, we all agree that the Z's hard plastic parts are a styrene (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). While ABS to ABS adhesives are available (tho repairing (with strength) the two breaks in the console body is proving tricky), bonding to non-ABS repair parts is an issue that I have not licked yet. I reckon I need to find different materials.... I'm open to more adhesive suggestions. I thank you for your attention.

Subject: early '77 280Z. Today's Query is a multi-parter... - Any opinions about whether the console and it's armrest/lid shell are of a Styrene plastic? - Has anyone ever felt the need, by necessity ("stripped" screws no longer holding the bottom finisher (a not-Styrene) to the top (Styrene) shell) or OCD urge, to disassemble the console armrest/lid? - Were you crestfallen to discover that most (especially those for the lid hinges) of the top shell's (Styrene) cast-in screw socket posts, were broken/shattered hulks of their former configuration? - Has anyone attempted repair/replacement? That worked? - If so, would anyone in this narrow class of dedicated self-abusers, care to share the secrets of their success? Please be specific regarding technique and adhesives. I thank you for your attention. PS: An Observation/Rumination: There may well be an object lesson here, about why attending to cars older than the '70s, is more often a more rewarding experience, non-Pro fiddle-wise, than those of more difficult materials and technologies that followed. Bonus Bore: Are future Cars-of-Our-Youth geeks doomed to embracing what few Overpriced, Not-Front-Drivers, Not-Station-Wagons, that remain? Will there be a surge of appreciation for the very many fine Pre-(personal)Historic crocks that will have become Estate fodder? Will a Journeyman coder be able to afford anything worth driving/saving? Wondering/Wandering minds want to know....

All: Well, this new first-hand evidence is certainly a compelling demonstration of the pitfalls of visuals over the web. The first fotos lead me astray regarding the actual hue of the blue, I reckon (tho the jury may still be out regarding the undercarriage...). So maybe it wasn't Col. Mustard in the Library with the lead pipe after all. However, I will reserve a final bark up this tree until after the car's first good wash, over and under. Still, spot on or off the mark, the exercise was an interesting diversion from the same old, same old.

Mr.grannyknot: With all due respect, Sir, I'm not sure I get your point. Even taking into account the florescent lighting and the iffy quality of the foto, the only thing i can say for sure is what the color shown isn't; it is not the same color as the blue on the exterior of the Z under discussion, paint code notwithstanding. Whether or not the color you show is the same color as on the interior tunnel is moot; the point is that the exterior and interior colors do not match. I attach a shot of my 200K mi. 280 to demonstrate the relevance of this point. The relevance of the second foto is completely lost on me. As I noted in my last post, my deductive conclusion remains only that the undercarriage clearly shows more than 350mi., without trying to predict the true mileage on the chassis (I attach a shot of my 280 (again, 200K mi.) to demonstrate the futility of trying to guess a true mileage based on visible condition alone). My first guess was based on the idea that the odometer belonged to the subject vehicle; I believe my theory about the dash and its instruments negates that preliminary mileage supposition without discrediting the original assumption (more than 350mi). It is a fine mystery indeed.

First, Clarification: I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade. But there is a rather interesting conundrum here, and I never could resist a good mystery. Anyone ever play "Clue"? Now, I realize this is a lot like the blind men and the elephant, but somehow the limited clues make things all the more interesting. I checked and found I was wrong about the exhaust shielding thing; that was only on Cal. 280s like mine. However, the exhaust pipe looks awfully fresh in those surroundings, and with a finish that looks more aftermarket than Factory. On the other hand, I am confident in stating that all 280s were sprayed on the interior (including the tunnel) with the body color, and barring a misleading color rendition, the ash tray pocket seen at the top of the tunnel is not blue, nor is the flat area in front of the shifter. I am also confident that the undercarraige shots clearly indicate a fair number of miles on the chassis. The roll bar and its fixing bolt head, as well as the forward faces of the susp. arms are definitely not just muddy. Going to the interior again, the steering wheel, the seat covers, and the shift boot show the kind of dust consistent with that found on the engine and exterior, while the rear carpet and tower vinyl look very fresh. And so does the spotless, blemish-free dash and its very, very clean gauge lenses. Now, the fact is, that there is no reason to remove the center air grills to replace a radio. But one would have to do it to install that flawless dashboard. I'm inclined to propose that the 350mi probably came with the dashboard, that was not on this car when it left the Factory. The whole paint issue is fascinating. It will be interesting to see what the first good wash reveals. I can hardly wait for more clues

"If something looks too good to be true...." No offense, but I see something else again in the available fotos. Between the re-paint (look at the ash tray pocket on the tunnel, always the exterior color), the road rash on the leading face of the suspension, and the discoloration of the exhaust (and where is its heat shielding), my dough's on 100,350mi. Another $.02 from the peanut gallery.

Would I be correct to assume that the end being pried is that at the door trailing (latch) end, and if so, then Step 1 would be to remove the window frame above the door? Thanks.