ensys

At the risk of exposing more of my considerable ignorance, I would pose the following: Working with the well-known on-line parts manual, I have come up against an issue of production timing that has me confused, and I am hoping for some enlightenment from this forum. My puzzlement is centered around the period between the start of A/C in Aug ’73 and the end of the Air Pump in Aug. ’74 (dates as per diagrams… are these good?). Part I: Since both apparently occupied the same space (the front lower left side of the block), how were there Air Pump equipped cars provided with A/C? Part II: It is not apparent from the diagram for the Air Pump just how the 3-point bracket shown is attached to the 4-point mounting provided by the block. Part III: The bracket shown for that corner on the (L24-L26) block diagram, looks neither like that shown on the A/C compressor diagram, nor like it would accommodate the A/P bracket, nor like it would mount any kind of compressor. What was its function and when? My thanks for your attention.

I believe the biggest problem is the tail pipe. Possible fixes could be an extended tailpipe, one that curves downward, or one that turns to the side. Any of these would direct the exhaust out of the turbulence at the tail.

Well, I stand corrected. I actually gleaned the list of alternators offered from the Parts Manual. As this is at odds with the FSM (as implied by my Service Manual and ably illustrated by the excerpt above), I wondered about the possibilities of unknown substitution.

The FSM cites 4 possible alternators on a '77 280Z (a 40amp, 50amp, and 2 60amps), but I cannot find any external markings on my unit, which I believe to be original. So, I am wondering how I can tell which unit is installed. I would appreciate some enlightenment. Thanks.

Anybody know for sure what are good donors for a 15", Z-bolt pattern space-saver spare?

Having just finished this operation on a 280, I can state that all the threads are conventional. And, it's a matter of taste I suppose, but many think the lever type of tapered pin joint removal is superior to the old pickle fork. Harbor Freight has a serviceable version of this tool also.

Two 5-speeds; how posh. For those of us in the Heartland, where old cars in a junkyard are but a fond memory, this is called an embarrassment of riches, for that overdrive gear can be put to very good use in a Z. It allows one to take good advantage of the six's easy availability of good low-speed torque that makes relaxed cruising, without stress, between 2 and 3K rpm in any situation. Around town, I am fond of 2K and skip-shifting to get around. There is nothing like an inline 6.

I couldn't agree more about Mr.7tooZ's offer, but sadly, without good timing, luck is sometimes wasted. I was referring to the alloy rear cover (sorry, not "plate") and to the front mounting point of the "long nose" (and thanks for that heretofore unknown info about noses). Also, thanks for confirming that the ZX LSD was the clutch type. Now, all I need is opportunity coinciding with budget. But I'm now better prepared for the eventual occurrence. Thanks.

From an observational standpoint, it would seem not uncommon for the Z engine room to be a pretty hot place now and then. Mine accrued nearly all its 200K mi. in No.Cal. w/trips in surrounding states, and I can only remember a couple instances of overheating, which could easily be a matter of dumb luck rather than indicative experience. I will note one thing that may or may not matter: I removed the bottom shield early on, indicating a greater concern for air flow than aero efficiency. I confess that I've never quite understood why this condition exists in the Z. Its got a good fan, and shrouding, tho I suppose the radiator could be more robust. And of course, having the A/C condenser sit in front of it doesn't help things. On the 280, I'm sure it doesn't help to have the hood vent above the "hot side" largely blocked by a clumsy rain tray. But I've known a few one-side-in-and-out engines in tighter confines that never had these kind of heat soak problems. Very curious. And annoying.

Mr.7tooZ: Your offer is attractive, but as I'm still in the early stages of trying to realize the dream, I won't waste your time with window shopping. I thank you just the same. Returning to point, I would like to see if I understand a couple things: - No S30 Z was ever delivered w/LSD. - My original rear housing plate, that would seem to be somewhat shallower by my uncalibrated eye, will accommodate the LSD carrier assembly, and thus fit (see below) the (E) mounts. - Units from eligible cars will not require a change in axle shaft ends (or length). - The later LSD R-200 is the same length from front mount to driveshaft flange, obviating the need to change/modify the drive shaft. I thank you for your attention. Fun fact: If you do the one-axle rotation test w/helical LSD (Torsen, Quaife, etc.), the other axle does not turn at all.

Thank you all for your input. I should have noted that the car in question is a '77 280Z, tho in my defense, I had assumed that the R-200 description would provide the necessary info about the axles and driveshaft involved. Mr.JSM, the situation you describe is my desired scenario. However, what I am hoping to learn is exactly what LSD/diff out of what car I should look for as a donor. Is there not a type/part no. that identifies an LSD R-200 dif?

Would anyone care to address my interest in finding a pnp LSD replacement for my R-200 dif (that would hopefully not require replacing my axles and/or driveshaft)? What cars would be likely donors? What serial no.s should I look for? Any help is appreciated.

Mr.Purcell: Might one inquire as to what LSD unit you ran back in the racing day? Thanks.

Good info, to be sure, but leaves unaddressed the "light touch" side of body work. These techniques are applied when heating, filling and filing, and sanding and painting, are not in the list of options. The scenario is a dent in a panel that has coatings, like original paint, that you do not wish to disturb. Instead of forcing, one tries to persuade the metal with pushes and soft, rapid strikes (I like to use a piece of red-rag covered wood, myself; the rag gives some slight grip to influence shrinking without marking the paint). If there's fair stretching involved, the end result will likely not be perfect, but it will be improved, and when done with care, paints will be undisturbed. Of course, it goes without saying that one needs access to both sides of the damage area. Warning: these techniques are intended to be applied only when the panels and paint have been warm (above 65 or 70 deg.) for at least 24 hours.

The trick is to not over do the heat. Work from an edge and only heat a small area enough to release with the aid of a 2 or 3 inch steel spatula/spreader. Gently lift and move along the edge, heating and lifting. Then head back to start, heating and lifting a little further in. Take your time. Its a lot like lifting a rubber cemented label without damaging it... slow and working the edge of sticktion to help it release. At least, that's the way I've done it.

How about a rear (red) side marker lite lens?

Not to be contrary, but there's a lot to be said for the factory petroleum-infused paper insulation. Yes, it can conceal moisture damage, but one can frequently diagnose most damage from soundings of the bottom of the floor pans. But on the plus side, it is efficient at damping both sound and vibrations, and with some heat and care, can be removed as a piece to be reused for real originality. Yes, there is always generic Dynamat, but it still has the trapping problem and is a huge pain to remove. Incidentally, I have always found that WD-40 works very well with removing petroleum residues (mats, road tar, etc.) while doing the least harm to underlying paints. Just a thought...

I wonder if I might pop up with my need for some (LF and LR) or all of the four rubber end caps for the front and rear bumpers of a '77 280Z. Thanks. S.J.Szabo

Hmm-m-m... Interesting. The factory sticker on my early MY '77 has but the top two lines of text (in the same typeface), without any mention of the type of paint used for good old Color 110. What year is your sticker attached to? Was this the configuration of cars before '77? Is it safe to assume that my '77 (or all S30s) were painted with Alkyd Enamel? Thanks for the input.... I love surprises.

What type of paint did the Factory apply to my '77 280Z? Your consideration is appreciated.

A little backstory… I’m servicing the R-200 rear axles on my ’77 280Z that I installed in the late ‘80s when the orig. pair started to seem a bit dodgey. I don’t remember where I got them, but they don’t match exactly in casting/markings and hardware. However, they both are for the same application, with the same press-in U-joints, and have worked well since the original install. Same internal details in every way save one: the Factory-looking one had the requisite 12 nylon ball spacers, while the different-looking one had but 8. Su-prise, su-prise. So, here I am, hoping that someone out there just might have 4 of the spacers that they could let go of. Oh yeah; if I saved the old axles, they are hiding exceptionally well. Thanks

This is an interesting topic for me as I am at the point of re-assembly of the manifolds/plumbing after my rebuild of the quite original engine (with 200K mi.) on my ’77 280Z. I too find the business of sheared fasteners at the ends of the exhaust manifold (the front on mine, quite some time ago) intreguing. Having verified that the “cold” mating faces are all in the same plane, I am forced to other conclusions about possible causes of what appears to be a common problem. My theory involves recognizing that the two end branches are long and of considerably less mass than the center, which may contribute to an uneven pattern of expansion, which I couple to a suspicion that there may have been something about the casting process (uneven wall thickness, etc.?) that encourages the ends to pull away from the head. At any rate, there is something going on there. I found dealing with this was easier with the head off, making the drill-out less… encumbered, if not less stressful. Incidentally, I too learned that linear manifolds like to be torqued from the center, out. Lastly, it’s clearly an issue of personal preference, but I figure if the intake has to come off anyway, one might as well take the opportunity to refurbish the plumbing and bench-test the injectors/various elec. valves, and just generally check/clean/replace everything. Unless, of course, all of it is in pristine and fully functional condition… But again, it’s a personal thing. When I leave a work area well preserved, it makes it easier to tell where I was working.