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Thanks for the info. I do have the Center caps, I’ll have to dig them out a postt a picture. Steve

Are these wheels of any interest in the Datsun community, I don't want to take these wheels to the junk yard if they are of any interest or value. They came with my car, it looks like someone put some work into reprinting them. I don't believe they are original to the car as there is a date on the back of 1976. The info on the back reads Japan 946L64A-3 14X6 50 6. 1976. Thanks, Steve

So, I ended up driving over to Jim Karst's place to make a template from one of his old covers. Sightunseen measurements helped me get the holes started in the right place. I'm happy with the end product, but have one corner where I want to smooth out a little where the vinyl bunched up a little. I used rivetnuts with.bolts and finish washers because that's what I had in the shop. I may pick up some white screw caps to see if I like the look better. Thanks for everyone's help! L

Thanks, will put that all on the list for this winter. Happy I can keep the stock seats.

I've been reading through some of the great seat rebuild threads and have been wondering how firm are the new molded foam inserts from MSA and other venders? I love the look of the OEM seats but mine are mush, I'd rather rebuild them then go aftermarket as long as the outcome is a nice firm seat. Could someone who has done a rebuild comment on how much of a change the new foam makes? Thanks, Steve

Hey thanks for all the great info. Very helpful! I can deal in eather metric or imperial no problem. I think I will go a little thicker than 1/8" maybe soak the hard board in hot water for a while and see if I can press a bit of a curve into it. I'll try with sight unseen measurements, but Jim I may come around to compare what I'm working on to what you have. Also like the idea of rivnuts instead of the plastic rivets. Im not great at documenting, but I will try on this project in case it's of any help. Steve

I was going to make a template from cardboard, but measurements would be a real help. Thanks!

Perfect thanks!

My '72 had never had a rear deck lid pannel, I'm going to make one up and cover it with white vinyl to match my interior. I was planning on using some 1/4" press board, but was wondering how thick the original was and what kind of material was used on the OEM? Thanks, Steve

This picture was taken with the wheel all the way left. Great thought on the height. This is the last step in my suspension rebuild. The length is the same as all the ones I've seen listed on line so when I drop it down I bet it's fine. thanks!

I bought new centric front brake lines for my '72 240Z and they appear too short. At full lock they are under A bit of strain. they are just a little over 10" or 26cm. The old ones are a little over 11". Is there a brand that fits better? Does the picture below look un usual at full lock ? Thanks Steve

Zed Head, I understand your concerns. My thinking is that there must have been a minor scratch or build up on the spindle, it was a little discoloured at the outside edge where the inner bearing sits. I was very gentle in my sanding, and would consider it more of a polish. Neither the old and new bearing wouldn't slip on until I did the polishing. My approach was to give it a few rubs, clean with brake fluid, apply and then try to work the bearing on. The place I was polishing was right at the edgeof the big step, the inner bearing wouldn't even start to slip on. Where the bearing rides wasn't polished. I don't think I did too much damage, the bearing is still tight aginst the spindle. Steve

Got it all back together, thanks for the help. A little sand I got with 600 grit wet dry paper with some wd40 in the areas the bearings were caching. and polished it with a grey scotch bride pad and I was able to get the bearings to slip on.

Thanks, also had a note from Jim Karst. I will try a little 600 wet sandpaper with some oil to polishe them up to see how it goes.

It's my First time changing bearings. I bought new front bearings from rock auto. Timken brand, the races went in nicely, but then I packed the bearings put them in the hub and tried to slide them on the inner bearing wouldn't go past the last step in the spindle. I pulled it out and just tried to slide the bearing on and it gets jammed. I checked the boxes the bearings came in and they appear to be the right size, Timken set 6 for the inner and set 2 for the outer. I double checked the old inner and it does get caught up but will go on. Feeling the spindle there doesn't seem to be any scratches that would hold it up. The outer bearing similarity gets caught up but I can giggle it on. Can you give me some ideas? I cant see sanding or polishing the spindle, but maybe that's what I need to do? Thanks, Steve Sent from my iPad

Yes, junk them? Or do they fit in a 240 application?

I'm finishing up the rebuilding of my front suspension and brakes. I bought all new hardware for may brakes and the kit came with a wire spring I've never used in the past. I'm sure its not needed as its not in any of the manuals I've seen, I think its an anti rattle spring but how would you install it on a stock 1972 240Z disk brake setup? Thanks, Steve

Thanks, in they go.

I bought new sway bar mount bushings from rock auto for my'72 240z. The brand was Beck Arnley and they were identified to fit my year. As you can see from the old vs. New comparison pictures they seem too tall. The rubber is very dense, I'm not sure it will compress when I install them. Has anyone else encountered this? Am I right that they are too tall, or will they compress? thanks, Steve

I've never done this before, was redoing all my front bushings and figured I might as well do the bearings and races. Everything is apart but still need to tap out the old races. I've seen that a few people really cleaned up their hubs before putting in the new races, even going as far as soaking them in gas or mineral spirits. I was originally only going to wipe off as much of the old grease as I could thinking the residual couldn't hurt. Any advice here? thanks, Steve

Perfect, thanks on the direction of spin. I think I'm going to finish the refresh put the suspension all back together in order to get the tie rod stable enough to get some leverage on it.

I have my front suspension all apart except for the tie rod ends. I probably should have broken the tie rod end locking nuts loose before I took it all apart, now it's hard to get a good hold on it. I need to confirm which direction to turn the lock nut, on the passenger side I'm turning it right to left. To brake it loose. On th driver side I understand it is a reverse thread so I'm thinking left to right. Is that right? thanks

This is for a '72 240Z: Has anyone used the Energy suspension Urethane tire rod end boots? I can pick up a pair from Rock auto for about $4. Vs. $13 bucks each for rubber ones from Motorsport. Motorsport doesn't seem to offer the Energy suspension tie rod boots for the 240, although they do for the 300Z. Is there a reason to avoid the Energy Suspension ones on the 240? Thanks, Steve

As an aside, unicoil is great for those tight bends where the lines tend to kink.

I went to the plumbing section of Home depot and found a plastic/PVC fitting that was very close to what you're looking for. I've read about a few people who simply used an appropriate lenght of plumbers copper pipe.