sdyck

Hey, thanks for the response. Where did you buy your flare nuts?

A couple of quick questions on rear brake line hardware. I’m working on my rear suspension and will need to replace my flex brake hoses and some of the hardline that I messed up when removing. Even with a flare wrench and lots of PB blaster those nuts weren’t moving and I rounded some off. So my questions; Do the generic rubber brake hoses fit into and are they held by the clip where the rubber hose meets the hardline? Is there a preferred replacement rubber hose? I’m looking at Rock Auto and am considering Beck/Arnley 0730267 which is listed as a replacement for the OEM part number. Finally, for the hardline fittings, are these generic enough that I can pick them up at any auto parts store? 10mm nut with the right thread count or is there a specific source. Thanks! Steve

Patcon, when I get to that point I'll let you know. Expect it to be part of my winter projects.

Yup the switches are for air con. Compressor works but no gas in the system. I'm eventually going to take it out.

Turns out Namerow and I had the same 70-71 knob so I went the modify route. Used a meatball dremal grinder bit to widen the width of slot, the base widens so the knob slots needs to be filed out. I widened it slowly so the fit remained tight. Also drilled the grub screw hole to 1/8" im very happy with the resultbut picture shows Lots of work to do on this interior

Namerow has kindly offered to swap my '70-71 knob for a '72. So it looks like I'll hold off on the filing.

I bought the one on teh left for the 70-71 from my local Nissan dealer. the 72-73 (the one I need) is no longer available. Unfortunatly 240rubber parts only offers teh 70-71 as well. I thought about that, but it that part would be more costly to replace than the $10 knob if I mess it up. I'm going to take a shot at filing/drilling/ dremmeling out the knob and will post my results. Steve

Well, my choke knob gave up the ghost after 40+ years of being yanked on. It snapped just above the set screw. I saw that the '72-73 know was NLA but a new '70-71 was still available, different symbole, but I figured it would still fit. No such luck, the hole in the knob that fits over the metal tang is too small. Has anyone tride to modigy the knob to fit? The hole seems to be deep enough but either the width or the bredth of the hole would need to be filed to enlarge the hole to fit. My worry is that it needs to be a tight fit so as not to wobble, the set screw seems to do little more than hold the knob in place. Has anyone tried this? Any advice? Thanks. Steve

Excellent thanks. Good thought on the 20 minute breakin on a rebuild engine. I'm hoping to never use it for that purpose! I'll also admit to using it to bring my idle up when I first got the car and it was ideling too low. I've got the timing right and the valves adjusted and it didn't need the extra help. Steve

I'd like to confirm that the only purpose of the fast idel screw is to set a higher RPM (1500-3000) while balancing your carb airflow. That's my interpretation from eveything ive read. Is that right or is there another purpose? Thanks, Steve

Ah good thought I wouldn't have considered that. Off to take a look at how thick the weld is on the header pipe

I know nothing about exhaust. Mine is welded from header to tail pipe. I need to drop it to work on my phone ear suspension and don't want to remove the carbs to drop the header and exhaust as a single unit. Im thinking I'll cut it and use some sort of connector and clamps. Any issues with this plan? Where would you cut it? thanks!

Ok I'm hoping for opinions from those who know better. I'm going to replace my rear struts, I seem to be bottoming out over bumps, get a pretty good hit. I was planning on replacing my bushings at the same time , but after taking a look the bushings don't look bad. The worst appears to be the spindle shaft, a little dry. The Mustashe bar is also a little hard, but I was planning on going back stock as I don't want things to be super hard and I see that the stock Mustashe bar bushing is NLA and I've read negative things on the poly urethane bush. Thoughts? Thanks, Steve

This is a recommendation for 240zrubberparts.com. As you can see from the pictures the old rubber had deteriorated to mush. New assemblies were about $35.00 each. But 240zrubberparts.com had the rubber for only $10.00 for 2. Great quality and easy swap.

Well I decided to buy "new" . Got the part from my local Nissan dealer. Much better condition and the manufacture date seems to be 2014. That's the date on the package anyway although it surprises me. Anyway installed it and the aftermarket outer seal today. Very happy with the results. Just a note I had two weather stripping adhesives and tried them both. An old tube of Pro form black weather stripping and a new Yellow Pematex. The Yellow Permatex flowed better but set up faster, the Pro Form black was more forgiving, both seem to hold just as well. Zup, (Jim D.) if you still want my older unused seal PM me your address and I will drop it in the mail. Steve

Welcome Resurgam here's my '72. Its a rolling restoration. Good luck to you on a ground up, those projects take lots of focus. I'm sure the great people here will do there best to keep you motivated.

Thanks for the replies. I beleive the date it was made was 2002, I'm going to let a friend take a look and give me his thoughts. If I don't use it I'll let you know Jim

When I bought my '72 it came with a bunch of bagged Nissan weather stripping, I've been working in the hatch weather stripping, have all the old stuff off and am ready to fit the new. The new weather stripping is very soft, which I took to be a god sign but on closer inspection it almost seems to be breaking down. There are cracks on inside the lip that would slide into the ridge and I'd imspread it it isn't smooth, you can see fht open cell foam core. I was wondering if this is normal or if it's deteriorating and I should chuck it?

wgen I bought my '72 it had mismatched battery cables the negative cable is 4 gauge and the positive is 1 gauge. I'm not great with the electrical. Could this cause any issues? THANKS, Steve

Interesting on the sealant. There is definitely some of that. But the sludge was black and crusty broke away easily. Nothing that I can see on the head it was quite clean.

I took valve cover off to adjust my valves for the first time and found some big chunks of hardened sludge on some screws in the valve cover. I knocked it off but it left crumbs of hardened sludge stuck in the oil in the nooks and crannies of the cover. To make sure it's clean I was going to rince it with mineral spirits. I have no experience so this may be a dumb question. Is there a better way to clean this out? Thanks

Had a great time in my Z this summer, this pic is from a couple of weeks ago, leaves are turning here in Calgary and we expect Saturday to be barely above freezing Hate the thought of putting her up for the winter.

This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. Could my issue be the result of overfilling the transmission. When I refilled it I'm pretty sure it took almost 2 litres/ quarts. But I was just looking at the FSM and it shows 1.5 litres, or .4 US gallons. Potential issue?

Crap, I'm too slow. Would have loved that transmission. And I'm in Calgary.

Tested as you suggested and I still have the problem car running or not. I'm betting its the "reverse lock-out" detent; when I shift it into reverse running or not, with the clutch depressed I can then easily run through all the gears and back into reverse. The resistence has been removed. Wait a minute and its back. I'm going to have to do some research into how that lock-out works. As I said above the problem started after I changed my gear oil to MT90. Its been leaking a little, not enough that I belive my tranny oil is low, but I will change it to something different just to be certain.