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sdyck

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Everything posted by sdyck

  1. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Perfect thanks! Picked up as per your specs perfect fit!
  2. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I bought a new fuel filler hose, but the old one was missing the 3 bolts to bolt in on under the car. Anyone know the bolt size? Thanks
  3. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks guys that's perfect!
  4. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I've done a search and can't find anything so this must be a dumb question. Anyway, My battery was just stiiting in tray without a proper hold down. I've looked at pictues and figure it will be easy to fabricate a bracket. My question is where does the J-bolt hook to? I see the firewall attachment point but don't see anywhere on the battery shelf designed for the J-bolt. Was it meant to just hook to the lip of the shelf? Seems mickey mouse to me. I guess I could weld a bracket to the shelf with some holes to hook to. Thanks, Steve
  5. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks that is a great help. I was planning on cajoling everything Ito the vent tank first and then working on the gas tank. Now I see if I do the gas tank first I'll have some more play to work with. Yes I have all new vent lines and fuel lines. I ordered some hard wall marine fuel lines for the 5/8" vent line that is nla.it has a 2" bend radius, so I'm hoping there's enough room to make the 180 degree bend. If not I will use copper fittings. my wife isn't patient enough to offer another set of hands so I'll see if my 11 year old will be of any use. Thanks again Steve
  6. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    So my tank has been boiled out, POR15'd and ready to install. I have new fuel sending unit, new filler neck, new vent and fuel lines on order (Should get them from GreenLine Hose early next week). So I was wondering if anyone had any tips to help with the install. All those damn hoses are going to be a pain to hook up. I'm figuring I'll put the fuel filler, the vent tank lines in place and then with the tank supported, but not all they way up start with the fuel in and out lines as well as the fule filler neck and work my way around on the vent lines. I remember when I dropped the tank, getting to some of the clamps and pulling the lines off was really tough so any hints would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
  7. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Build Threads
    Hey Mark where in Alberta are you? I'm just outside of Calgary. Steve
  8. Dropped my gas tank today. 1972 240z.. And I have an interesting issue. The fuel retun pipe (small one on top in the picture) moves, it spins although if I pull it out a little it tightens up. I doubt it's intended to be a friction fit. Has anyone had this issue? The tank is really clean id hate to have to have it cleaned out just to weld this up. Any suggestions? Would you trust jb weld on this? Thanks
  9. This may not help much but I have 15" panasports on mine, but not sure of the width or aspect ratio. I like the look, it doesn't fill up the wheel well as much as some of the 16" setups I've seen. With low aspect performance tires my total wheel/tire combo has a smaller diameter that stock which impacts my speedo. Love the look though
  10. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I bought one for my '72 from Motorsport Auto this fall. Couldn't find one at Rockauto eather. Core charge was steep at $300, but they refunded quickly when I sent mine to them. Very happy, no problems with bolt pattern.
  11. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Cool, love the pics. Took a look for the EZ coil. Canadian tire sells them for $7.00 a pop up here might give them a try FastWoman, did you use the EZ coil so the 180 degree bends? and no issues?
  12. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Late to the responses, I will third the Wesco Roadster belts. do a search on installation I needed to use a series of 2 or three large washers or spacers to keep the retracting real part out from the panel at the upper anchoring point. They are a little touchy when trying to pull them out to buckle up, but you get used to that.
  13. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Thanks, they look great! I've been thinking about leather and That price is pretty good. How firm is the foam on your seats? You mentioned it was used. I don't like how soft my swats are I'm hoping to get something firm and wasn't sure hip ow firm they were when new.
  14. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks Bart, will probably go the same route. Considering just eliminating the vent tank and lines and capping things off. Always worried this will lead to other issues, so will probably do the whole thing. Steve
  15. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Considering eliminating the vent tank. According to a search there are supposed to be instructions at this link; http://www.classiczc...light=fuel vent But the link doesn't work. Does anyone have a better link? Thanks
  16. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks, It looks like I'll need to come up with an alternative. The brass fitting looks like it would work.
  17. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    What is this fitting called? It's about 3/4" and joins the main fuel filler hose to the thick line that goes to the vapour tank. It's got a nice big crack in it. I don't see it listed at the z store. Is it a standard item I could pick up at an auto parts store Thanks.
  18. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Thanks guys. Siteunseen I have both an exhaust smell and fuel smell. I'm going to redo all the rear light gaskets and hatch seals as well as make sure all the holes in the hatch floor are well sealed for the exhaust issue. For the gas smell I've read every post I can find. I see most of the hoses are nla and many have crazy bends. I did find one post that listed replacements from McMasterCarr but it was old and most of those are Nla too. McMaster has some great alternatives with low bend radiuses. I guess I'll get stuck in on taking it all apart and checking the hoses before I order anything. My car is from Arizona with pretty low on rust so I'm expecting the gas tank to be pretty clean. If I empty it and drop it off the car for a while is there something I should fog it with t keep the rust at bay over the winter?
  19. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I do have a fuel smell in the cabin of my car: I expected to take off the panels at the back and find a bunch of rotten hoses. But they look pretty good as you can see from the attached pictures. The hoses are pretty hard, are the cloth hoses very pliable when new? There is one long line that runs along the back panel that goes through the floor that should have a grommet at the floor but doesn't, not pictured. I might try just changing this and renewing the grommet to see how it does. Are there any of the lines that cause particular problems?
  20. Hey Coastal Man, I have the same set up and will be pulling it all this winter. Please take pictures and let us know your process. Neither my aircon or heat works right now. I intend to delete the aircon and fix the heater.
  21. I did a little of the roll the car thing in gear, feels so inaccurate though. My MG was always so easy to access, also used a bump starter to get it close. PerTronics in my future. Motorsport auto shows a kit for the '70-'73 at a reasonable price, I assume it works works with the stock distributor?
  22. Well I've owned my '72 Z for a couple of months now, had a lot of fun and got to know what I need to address while putting on some miles. I just changed the plugs, did a compression test, checked the timing and set the points gap. I am happy with the compression, 150 across the board dry and 160 to 170 wet, the variability was probably due to how much oil I squirted in each cylinder. May be able to get away with just a re-ringng it in the future The front three spark plugs looked great the back tree were black, I need to adjust the carbs the back must be running rich. Plug gap was way too small, I put in new plugs with correct gap. Similarly the point gap was almost non existent, so I set it to .018 and the car seems much happier, starts up easier and runs smoother. checking the timing it seems to be around 5 degrees btdc and when revved it runs up over 30, it's very difficult to see the marks I'm going to clean up and paint the marks to get a better idea. (I'll confirm tdc when I set the valves). Now my question, I had to loosen the fan shroud to get a 27mm socket on the crank nut. What a pain!!! In the end it worked for setting the points, but there must be a better way. How do you guys spin the engine when you set the points gap? Thanks! Steve
  23. sdyck posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Funny I got my blip shift shirt in the mail yesterday great quality! Love it!
  24. I have new door seals still in their Nissan bags. I'm going to try to glue on the cut piece of tubing first and see what the impact is then I'll replace the seals. I'll take pictures when I get down to it. Tomorrow I'm off to the Radium BC car show, the weather looks great for the weekend and teh show usually has 500+ cars of all marks and is always interesting. Will be my first long drive in my car ~ 180 miles - 300 km with half of the drive though the rockies. Steve
  25. Thanks Steve, I said "they" because I was referring to a couple of different posts I read. I went back and looked at the original that I quoted and it was Enrique, sorry I meant no disrespect. Namerow thanks for the link, interesting source for rubber parts. I'm not sure which bit is for the latch, but The pictures give me some idea of what I may be missing, it's different than I was thinking. I'm surprised there are that many rubber bits in the locking mechanism. Thanks again, Steve

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