sdyck

Thanks, I'm working on a '72. I have cleaned and lubed the mechanism which helped but it still doesn't close every time. Steve J the picture does help a little, from the description it sounded like they slipped the hose over the lobe, but I couldn't figure out how to do that. From the picture maybe they split the hose and just glued it on the lobe, it doesn't look like it would be even 1/8" thick. Has anyone seen this elusive "rubber boot" do you know how thick it would be. Steve

This problem has been asked and answered in the archives, but I must admit I’m still confused. Hoping someone who has done the fix can help. My passenger side door will close, but only the first of two “clicks”. The second lob on the catch doesn’t catch properly. The solution from the archives…” I discovered that there's a little rubber boot that's supposed to fit over the lobe on the latch. Over the years, as the door sags, the rubber boot wears out and drops off. Just the loss of thickness of that boot causes the latch to begin to rotate too late as the door is closed, which makes it difficult to close without slamming. My solution? Get a new boot. Trouble is, you can't buy just the boot, you must buy the whole latch assembly to get the boot!” Another thread suggested you can manufacture the boot by “…get a section of ¼ inch ID tubing or thereabouts…cut its length to match the width of the latch part. Coat the rubber and latch part with a good contact cement and attach. The thickness is roughly the same” That sounds great, but I’m missing the rubber on both sides and have to admit looking at the catch can’t envision how to dot the fix. Has anyone done it? Any pictures? Any tips? Thanks, Steve

Sorry Double post

Wix 51521 came up as one of the filters for the 240z when I ordered a bunch of stuff from rock auto. I think it was on sale so I ordered 2. I believe this is the same filter as the Napa 1521, I was surprised at how short it was vs what I was replacing ( see picture), I'll never understand why there are so many different Olaf filters? In the future I'll get the Wix 51515, but in the meantime, has any one had problems with the shorter filters? Since they are listed for the 240z I can't see a problem, other than longevity. Thanks! Steve

This is in my future so a couple of quick questions. 1. Hazmat asked about primer but I didn't see an answer. What are you guys using for primer? 2. I'm assuming the texture is different enought that the full dash needs coating? 3. Is everyone clearcoating afterwards? I'm not sure I'd like a shine to the dash. Thanks!

I can go "full throttle" when filling but it does tend to click off a couple of times, so I'm never sure I'm actually full.

Thanks, good news that I don't have anything to fix, bad news that I can't rely on the guage. My calc's show I'm getting 15 mpg city, ( I'm in nead of a full tune), I guess I'll have to get used to setting the trip meter rather than relying on the guage. I should be able to get 200 miles out of it and leave at least 2 gallons.

'72 240Z My gauge sort of works, when I fill up it goes to full, but then it drops quickly to half full hangs around there awhile then slowly drops to about 1/8 full which is generally when I refill it. The odd thing here is when I fill it from 1/8 full I can only add around 10 gallons. Which means I have 5 or more gallons left. At first my searches led me to believe that my float may be filingl with gas and acting strangely as a result> but then I ran across this post from an admin over at Hybrid; "The shape of the gas tank makes the first 1/2 of the tank go really fast in relation to the last half on the gauge. There is a lot more volume in the tank when it reads the bottom 1/2 of the gauge. Also the fuel senders are not the latest and greatest design and they tend to not be accurate, especially after 30+ years of service." Can anyone confirm that? ThankZ

That my friend is a project. Keep us up to date with you progress! Very cool. Steve

Took half an our this evening to jack up the car, place the jack stands, wheels off, shims switched and flipped with the arrow pointed the right directions. Half hour test drive with lots of stop and go with no noise! Very pleased with easy fixes. Much more confident with my brakes. thanks!

I've been addressing my new toe '72's issues one at a time, starting with brakes. First job was a new reman brake booster from MSA which made a huge difference. Second was to address break noise that occurred with slight pressure. Took off the wheels, pulled pads and shims, cleaned them up applied grase between the pad and shim, put them back the way I found them ( lots of pad left). Theth were much better but they still would "sing" a little with light pressure. Did a search and stumbled across a diagram that shows y shims are upside down. The were and are in in an "L" shaped position with the arrow on the shim pointing down. Could this be causing my continued noise?:tapemouth

Thanks for the tuning link, one line in the Blue's tuing descrption leads to another questions "3) Take the car for a run and listen closely for popping in the exhaust (rich), popping in the intake (lean) and note power" I have a brake booster leak, when I step on the brakes, the engine revs go up a couple of hundred RPM. Doesn't a vacume leak result in a lean condition. I get increased poping, when I'm on the brakes and decelerating, but it sounds like its coming from the exhasut which the above quote suggests is rich. My exhuast is very loud, is there a way to confirm poping is coming from intake or exhaust. As I type that it sounds like a dumb question, but I guess I'll ask it anyway. Thanks! Steve

Thanks, when I look at the manual on line ( I can't cut and paste the section), it shows L24 SU Carb. 17degress/550 RPM. Then it also shows SU Carb (Emission control) 5degrees/750 rpm). I may have made a mistake in assuming that the 1972 was pre emission control. How do I determine what is correct for my car? Thanks.

1972 240Z - dual round top SU's My new '72 is running rough, I thought I'd start with checking the timing. I am borrowing my neighbours basic timing ligth tonight. The FSM manual says teh timing should be set to 17 degrees @ 550 rpm. When warm my car idles around 850-900 rpm, do I adjust simply adjust the idle down on the carbs first? 550 seems really low. Thanks, Steve

Jim, I'll take you up on that offer at some point, Thanks! Siteunseen, thanks for the pictures. It’s interesting your set-up is a little different than mine. The little rubber hose you replaced is the one I'm dealing with. I seem to have an additional item coming from the manifold; the gap between the two hard pipes is at most half an inch. I think you may be missing the temperature sensor Jim was referring to, #8 in the attached picture.

I had a leak on my Manifold Heater Hose, (Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, on a 1972 240Z), and replaced it with a 1/2" generic line. It was quite a struggle getting things back together, the hard line that runds behind the engine neer the fire wall has a bracket that bolds on with the rearmost exhaust manifold stud. It looks like the braket that holds the hard tubing should be adjustable but I couldn't get it to move, its either welded to the tube or coroded so badly its stuck. The two hard tubes I'm connecting are offset by 1/4 of an inche, so the rubber tubehas a bit of a bend in it that's putting more strain on the tubing than I like. My question is; is that braket actually welded on or should I be able to free it up? I had a leak on my Manifold Heater Hose, (Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, on a 1972 240Z), and replaced it with a 1/2" generic line. It was quite a struggle getting things back together. The hard line that runs behind the engine near the fire wall has a bracket that bolts on with the rearmost exhaust manifold stud really made getting things back together difficult. It looks like the bracket that holds the hard tubing should be adjustable but I couldn't get it to move; it’s either welded to the tube or corroded so badly it’s stuck. The two hard tubes I'm connecting are offset by 1/4 of an inch, so the rubber tube has a bit of a bend in it that's putting more strain on the tubing than I like. My question is; is that bracket actually welded on or should I be able to free it up? The bracket end that hold the tubes simply wraps around it with an open end, it looks like I should be able to bend it open, move the tube and bend it closed. Thanks, Steve Thanks

Thanks man!!!

Hi I did a search but couldn't find exaclty what I was looking for. First, I see that I can buy braided hose at quite a bit more expensive than the regular formed Rad and heater hoses. Is the braided hose significantly better or is the braiding for originality? Second I had a leak on my Manifold Heater Hose, (Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, on a 1972 240Z), I took it off and it looks to be 1/2" diameter, is that right or is it 5/8" Thanks! Steve

Perfect thanks!

Thanks for the advice JGreezy. I got the leaking hose off tonight and bought a replacement to install tomorrow night. The old one was pretty weak and stretched out and cracked. When I went to the store the 1/2" looked to small but the 5/8ths was too big. obviously the old one was set to fail which tells me I need to replace them all. I've been looking for a source for lengths and diameters but can't find a single listing. Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Steve

Wow thanks for the detailed responses, good to know I don't have a major issue. I will look into a heat shield, judging by how tight things are in the intake/exhaust area I may need to take the carbs off to properly tighten down the headers. Next steps will be to fix a coolent leak. That short rubber coolent pipe near the fire wall is leaking, tightening the clamp made it worse. I hope the size isn't odd so I can just pick up a length at my local auto zone. After that I'll check compression, check the condition of the plugs, check timing, adjust points, adjust valves. Then I'll report back. Thanks again, Steve

So my 1972 240Z pictured above runs reasonably well and doesn't seem to be blowing any smoke. I still have to do a compression test and tune up, but have an issue that I'm not familiar with. I took off the air cleaner cover and its full of carbon, obvious blow back from the carbs. (see pictures below). I've been having run-on issues that I attributed to a brake booster issue as well as the previous owner was running on regular unleaded. The engine rpm was going up when I put my foot on the brake, due to a vacuum leak at the brake booster. If I keep my foot off the brake and with premium gas the car doesn't run on. Could the carbon be from the run-on? The other issue I've been having is popping on deceleration. No full-on back-fire, from what I've read that could be an exhaust leak at the header. I took a look tonight and some of the bolts were loose so I tightened the ones I could reach. I noticed one bolt missing as well, I'll need to get the car on jackstands to get underneath to reach some of the bolts. Could this be the cause of the carbon in the air cleaner. Thanks in advance for any help!! Steve

Hi just became the proud owner of a 1972 240Z its a little rougher around the edges than it looks in the picture My plan is to keep it on the road during the summers and work on bigger projects through the winter. There are a number of things that need addressing right away, a new brake booster for starters. I need to give it a good tune for starters, check the compression etc. I have a little experience with SU Carbs but they ones I fooled around with was on my Dad's old MG and he always kept it in tip top condition. I'm going to follow this post up with my first question, Thanks, Steve

Looking good! What made you chose whiteheads? Steve

Bah, I see it is a prop shaft. Steve