JR Ohio

I bought the Vogtland Sport Lowering Springs and STAGG SHS High Performance strut package/kit on ebay. I have not installed them yet because of the frigid weather. But they look very nice. Also just $289 for all 4 springs and 4 struts/shocks. Also the struts are different length front and rear so I don’t expect any spacer issues.

Hi Stanley and thank you for the info. I'll know what to look for. Where is the marking on the needles indicating which ones? We didn't take them out as they were set properly and we didn't have any others to put in. I tried to find a chart listing different needles that are avail but could not find one. I remember back in the 70s there was a good availability and we still would raise the needles to get more fuel for our race engines. simple/cheap solution. Thanks again, John

Hello all, Spent the evening helping a buddy try to get his 72 240Z running better. The front carb was messed up and pumping fuel into the carb. We finally got the level set in it pretty good They carbs were recently rebuilt by a commercial shop that said they knew what they were doing. Not really sure about that. I know the f and r carbs have subtle differences and the rebuild kits do also. Ie the float needle and seat valve has different length stems coming out if them. One question I have- are the front and rear floats different? I am thinking the metal tab that turns off the fuel might have a different curvature to compensate for the needle difference. We only had the front one apart. It had the long needle but was hard to get the float to smoothly work as designed. I'm thinking the guy that rebuilt it may have switched the floats. Also when setting the mixture, I had to turn the jets almost all the way up to get the Colortune to just begin to stop being orange. I set the float levels so the the fuel was about at 10mm below the bridge in the carb. If all else fails we may lower the needles out of the Pistons a little to see if that helps. As usual, thank you very much for any tips or advice. All is welcomed and appreciated. John

Hi Zed and thank you for the info. I have an older Fluke 77 but it doesn't have very many settings. I also have a Cen-Tech P37772 that I picked up last spring. Hz is one of the settings, but it does not say DC or AC. I am going to make an assumption that it is DC. Hope so anyway. I thought I had it hooked up once at some DC volt setting and got a reading similar to the tach, but I could be mistaken.

Well, the dwell/tach that I bought in 1969 finally died! They just don't build them like they used to, or wait a minute - they did build them pretty good back then. I used the dwell very seldom since adding the Pertronix to my '72 240Z. But I did use the tach function often when tuning carbs or setting timing. Very handy when you don't have a helper! My question is - I have a digital multi meter (DMM) that has a lot of functions but does not have a tachometer function. I always hooked up the '69 meter up to the distributor side of the coil and the other lead to a ground. Is there a function on these meters that would give me the rpm reading (I understand that there may be a decimal point that might be off)? Has anyone tried this, is there a simple setting + math, or am I out of luck and will have to buy a new meter just to check RPMs occasionally? Thank you for any help and advice. John

I just refreshed my round top SUs. I set the float levels prior to installation according to the directions included and elsewhere. The result was that the car would not start. I checked the float levels with the clear hose method also and all was correct. The car would not start. It would kick a couple times but that was it. Starting fluid - just a few seconds of running. I pulled the domes off and removed the pistons. Put the mixture adjustors to full top, then cranked them down 10 full turns equaling 10mm to check to see where the fuel level was. It was WAY below the top of it. I removed the bowls and kept adjusting them until I got the fuel just at the top. Then reset them to the typical 2 1/2 turns down. Reassembled everything and on the 1st turn of the ignition, it fired up and ran pretty decent! After adjusting the balance and then the mixtures, and again the balance, I took it for a test drive and it ran marvelously! Your problem could be different than mine, but this is what made mine work. John

Hey Captain! Bingo! the fuel leak that I thought was the bowl gasket is actually the banjo leaking. I have not fixed the banjo leak yet, but I did dry things up and put a mirror in there to watch and that's where it's coming from. With the float level set correctly, there would be no reason for the gasket to leak. So tomorrow, I fix the banjo leak. Might take the red composite ones off and put the metal/aluminum ones back on to see if that solves the problem. Really don't want to put goop on it if I can avoid it. The next project will be to try to figure out why it won't start! Thanks for the tips, John

Hi Captain! And thanks for the quick post! When I did the clear line check, the carbs were on the car. I did that to be certain that they were at the correct angle for an accurate reading. The kits came with new gaskets and banjo washers which I used. The old banjo washers were metallic ones probably from the factory since the bolts were on pretty tight. The new ones are reddish fiber ones. Thinking of putting on a little removable sealant and cranking on it to be sure it seals up. Also thinking of the same on the float bowl but not crank quite as hard because of the size of the screws and material of the bowls. 1st step is to get it to stop leaking/oozing then 2nd step is to figure out why it wouldn't start. Thanks for your assistance and letting me tap into your knowledge! John

This forum has been very helpful to me in the past, and any advice with this situation would be appreciated. Here’s what I have. ’72 240Z, stock L28, 3 screw round top carbs. I finished rebuilding the carbs yesterday. After getting everything reinstalled, I turned on the ignition to check for leaks and they were there. Leaks from the banjo fuel fitting supply to the bowl and also some leaks around the float bowl top gasket. I tightened the 4 bowl top screws and the banjo fitting bolt, but they seem to still ooze fuel. Current plan – Take it back apart and put some Permatex non-hardening sealant & dressing (#85409) on the parts and reassemble. I’m pretty sure I have the float levels set correctly. I used a gauge when I installed the needle/seat and float. I also put a clear line on the fuel output to use as a sight gauge and all seems well. There may be another problem possibly related or possibly not. After tightening things up to only an ooze of leaking, I attempted to start it up. No luck. It did sputter a few times but never got it running. As it was getting late, I stopped for the night. Things I am going to check on the non starting situation – Pull the domes & pistons to check the fuel level at the metering needles’ seats and re-check the mixture for the initial 2 ½ turns down from top. I’m also going to check the level of the oil in the dashpot. I may have them slightly overfull, but don’t think this could be the culprit as I unscrewed the top of the plungers and it did not help. I got the car running pretty good prior to the rebuild. The reason for the rebuild was a fuel leak around the front carb’s bowl. Discovered the float level was way too high and the previous owned evidently lost or damaged the gasket and put it back together with only RTV. Finding that, I decided there may be other things he had done. Found a couple minor things in the process. (oil in one dashpot and hardly any in the other, different fuel feed lines that both looked like they were ready to fail) Would like to have any additional diagnostic advice or tips beyond all of the above or about the above that you think may help. Thank you for any and all help and advice! John

My '72 240 is longer from the pivot to the ball. No problems and a nice short shift!

I just made the same swap. The straight-ish lever came with the 5spd and the one on the right with the longer lower portion was stock in my '72 240 4spd. Using the one from the 4spd gives a resulting shorter throw to shift the gears and mine doesn't make contact like has been described above. I also have the brass bushings in the shifter for the pivot and plastic at the bottom. John

I got a complete kit from Advance Auto for $109. Seems great! They have a more expensive one too. While I was at it, I had the flywheel resurfaced at O'Reilly. $11. If you do the flywheel too (which I suggest), get new flywheel bolts from ARP. They are very nice!

What did you use to polish the glass? My windshield has minor surface things I'd like to polish off. John

A friend of mine back in the 70's had the cheap metal ones. Collapsed while he was under the car and killed him. Don't buy cheap metal ramps!

Mine doesn't have a flat spot for the emblem. The emblem was removed so the spoiler would fit. But I still have the emblems in case I need the.