dozer171

wow, those papers sound like a fantastic read, i've never heard of them!!! would you guys be willing to put them into some sort of format for download such as *.pdf or something? or copies for snail mail, i'll gladly reimburse you for your efforts and postage!

motorsport sells the fourbarrell setup and reccomends 390CFM, seems like it'd be good even for a mod l24

my N47 head had 130K miles on her when i rebuilt it, and that only included dismantling, cleaning, and lapping the valves. i put it together with new seals (left the seats and guides in place, they all looked good), and i consumed a very small amount of oil over the first 500 miles. i talked to my dad about it, he said to write it off as the rings seating after the honing job we did. she hasn't consumed a drop since (about 5K miles). his 87 pontiac fiero GT on the other hand.. oil monster! has about 140K miles of being driven HARD every day. she goes through about a quart a week depending on the amount of driving and the style. she needs new valve seals REAL bad. it's gunna happen the next weekend i'm home from school and it's nice out (which is starting to happen here in my area of new york! sweet!!!! ) if you didn't replace your valve seals, i would reccomend doing them. if it consumes a VERY small amount of oil, wait until the rings are broken in (beyond seated, about 200-500 miles of gentle driving). are you sure your carbs aren't overfilled with oil and they're just leaking down until the level gets to it's correct point?

i would regularly get 24 mpg on the highway with my 78 280Z, but that was also with getting easily bored in fifth gear, dropping her down into 4th, sometimes 3rd taking off, putting her back into fifth and slowing back down... i would say you should be getting around 26 mpg or so if you have a five speed.

if you plan on running a 240 hood, use the cooler, it gets HOT around there. the 75-78 Z's didn't have the coolers i believe, only the ZX series. i'm working on going to carbs now on my 78, but i didn't have the blower and she never gave me a problem. on the fuel injected engine, you have to use the valve cover breather. it meters blow by and the such back into the intake and also controls the idle speed (see that long screw right in front of where the hose goes in?) this guy got rid of all his emmisions stuff on an EFI engine http://www.worley-world.com/stripe/ one helluva car if you ask me! but, i don't know how he managed to do it. doesn't seem too hard when you think about it though, the computer isn't really reading anything other than the airflow meter and the engine temp.. the thermo time switch only tells the computer that the engine has reached "x" temperature, so it shuts off an aux. air circuit to high idle the motor when she's cold...

i always thought that it wasn't a backfire out of the carbs on the harley's, it was the monster cam the guys love to put in them, causing them to miss at low rpm's and always having them rev the motor to keep the plugs from fowling out.

The triple mikuni set up was the original set up available from nissan motorsports, that's why they are so popular even today... they were the first "hot" set up as far as carbs go for racing. be careful though, the 44's are a hair too big for the street, and a wee bit too small for the track. go for 50's if you're building an all out race motor, and try to track down 40's for a nice street motor. i am using dellorto 40's (well, will be once i buy the manifold!) on my 280. should work fine for bombing around town and to occasional spirited ( ) driving. might run into problems during autoX, but, that's a once in a while thing... this sound about right to everyone else?

I too just bought tripple dellorto's (40DHLA's). i bought the "how to build and powertune your weber and dellorto dcoe and dhla carburators" from amazong. GOOD READ!!! i would definatly buy it for you. plenty of tuning advice and hints... also, as far as parts go, check out www.cbperformance.com out in california... they have the parts, but they specialize in volkswagon sand rails. just be sure to buy the DHLA and not the DRLA parts. they are grouped together allot on their page... T.J.