drpchuynh

Rod informed me that both doors sustained prior damages, with the driver side door pushed in so far that it bent "the bar". That would require removal of the skin to straighten it out properly. So we decided to replace the doors instead of repair. That would be easy enough on most 240z but it turns out the early cars had their "bamper" located in a more forward position than midway on the glass. I'm calling it a bamper because that is how it's referred to in the manual. Rod was able to source a set of doors (orange doors in pic) but those doors too had a lot of fillers. So we decided to grab the doors off of #1610 (blue car), hence you see the passenger doors go from silver to blue and the driver door is now free of fillers. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Here are some updates. Rod addressed several large areas of rust before handing the car off to the body shop. The battery tray needed the most attention. The body shop will finesse the welding seams. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

And as an American who risk his life to fight for my former country, my family and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts. It's a debt that we can never repay in full. All we can do to show our appreciation is to better ourselves as Americans by giving back and never forget the sacrifices that so many made in pursuit of our freedom. My respect to you and all those who wear the uniform. Thank you Mike for the kind words. Have a great Labor Day! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Thank you Pilgrim for the kind words. If you still keep in touch with your friend, please extend my deepest gratitude for his service and sacrifices. Deployment to Vietnam was no joke. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Someone PM me asking if dprchuynh and drpchuynh are the same member. Yes it is. Since they did away with the app, I forgot my registration information. So I created another through Tapatalk just to update this thread. Needless to say, I am able to get back in. All is well.

Quality work Rod! Brad is in great hands. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Website states location as 386 E SHORELINE DR, LONG BEACH, CA 90802 Looks to be across the harbor from the Queen Mary. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here's the flyer. Marina Green Park, Long Beach. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Last Sunday we fired her up! Here's the link to the completed video. If you don't have time to watch the entire video, feel free to jump to minute 3:50. I tried uploading the video here but I think it's too large of a file. I spliced and edited the video with descriptive captions to help my viewers, especially the novice DIY-ers like myself, navigate the thought process of a master mechanic as he systematically works through the process of getting an engine fired up and idled correctly. Most of you on here probably do this in your sleep, so you'll find the descriptions elementary.[emoji23] Have a great Labor Day weekend and enjoy the video! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks Hardway! I'll relay your message to him. I'm always amaze at how quickly he does things, and how knowledgeable he is with the internals of each working parts. It's easy to buy new to replace broken ones, but to have the "engineering" knowledge to tear down and rebuild 40+ year old parts that are no longer available takes a special kind of expertise. Kudos to all of you tinkers out there that can do this sort of stuff. Hopefully you can pass that knowledge on so these cars will always have a mechanic/restorer that will keep them on the road for years to come.

Engine back in! Rod said the brake master cylinder was "making my engine look ugly." So he built a period-correct one using a Tokico. I noticed the reservoirs were backwards so I asked him about it, and he explained, "That master cylinder that was on the car was for a 280z. So the brake lines were hooked up wrong, the front to the rear the rear to the front. Not great for breaking." Looking forward to firing her up! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Interesting that this part is painted. Are you aware if #13 was restored Philip? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks Rich! Hopefully you can sort out the rest and match the dilapidated chassis to this engine. Yes it's my understanding that the decals came later. JDM-CAR-PARTS list the dates for the decals as 71-72. I don't have them on any of my Series 1. As for the timing chain covers, it looks like the #1610 is similar to the #187. The later ones have the ridges. Hope that helps. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

And it's finally assembled with the fuel lines! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

And more excellent work from Rod! Thanks again for the fuel line recommendation Rich! Per Rod, "That's good info on the fuel lines. That's why I haven't put any on yet. I couldn't find any fuel lines that would fit the clamps. So I'm ordering that tonight. Right now I'm cleaning out your engine bay while the engine is out. I'm going to change the steering rack bushings the steering coupler and the strut rod bushings. One of your strut rod bushings is missing." He informed me that the fuel lines arrived and will have it all assembled by this weekend. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The engine bay received a good scrubbing before the drivetrain is reinstalled. Pictures to document present condition. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks Rich! I'll pass that along. Thanks Capt! I'll check with Rod to see if there is an adjustment screw.

He wanted me to share this for those restoring the earlier S30. The pulleys are similar in diameter but their profiles are slightly different. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Rod currently has #503 in his garage. He just sent me a picture of the distributor cap that's in there. Owner claims it's original to the car. Take it for what it's worth. In a couple of weeks, the sister car (#502) will come to his place for work. He'll snap a picture of that one too. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'll leave the debate regarding the correct color of the caps alone and will say that I'm fortunate enough to have both options with the brass contacts. I haven't seen too many bluish green ones so I'll go with that. Revisiting the clamps. Rod was able to make quick work of them. In addition to the clamps, he found this rubber cap (green arrow) in his stockpile. These rubber cap are soft and pliable, similar to the rubber boots you find on the bases of the windshield wipers and those covering battery terminals. Unfortunately "the heat in the engine bay dries them out and they crack and fall out so you don't see them too often." What function it serves, he isn't clear. Maybe someone can speak to its necessity. Can't see Datsun engineering a piece like that if it doesn't serve a purpose, good or bad. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

As for striping off the yellow zinc, he used this mag cleaner. In his words, "This was too easy. Etching mag wheel cleaner took the plating right off." He said he sprayed it on and let it sit for a few minutes before wiping it off. Many ways to skin a cat. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

After relaying everyone's feedback to him about the correct distributor cap, he dug through his stash and found a black NOS cap with the brass contacts. So that'll be used going forward. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Got it! I'll ask Rod about the contact surfaces to see if they are brass or aluminum. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The Muriatic acid bath sounds like a simpler solution. Thanks! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wow! That's gorgeous! Thank you for the info. I'll forward the engine bay picture to Rod for reference. One of the things that I have considered removing is the metal fan in favor of the plastic ones for daily driving. Rod informed me that those were recalled due to blades separating at high RPM, plus they are heavy. I can always switch it back if I placed her in a show. What are your thoughts? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile