drpchuynh

Thanks for the insight Rich! That's good to know. Were the silver zinc coating just as shiny as the yellow zinc when new? I ask because most clamps that I see are matted silver, most likely from oxidation over the years. If they are matted, then we can just rub off the yellow plating to expose the matted silver clamps. If not, then they'll require removal and nice buffing. Hopefully Carl can chime in too. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

He was certain it was period-correct but not entirely 100%. Judging from your response, it seems he knows his parts. I will let him know that, and I'll ask if he has more on hand that he'll be willing to part with. I'll get back to you. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks! Rod does excellent work. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here are the parts back on the engine with the air box. The tubes and clamps are also specific to the 69 builds as well. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

He was able to source these. He believes the bluish-green ones are for the earlier builds. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

He rebuilt the starter. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here are some updates on the restoration. Rod was able to assemble a period-correct alternator from 2 alternators, a damaged one with a good diode and an undamaged one with a bad diode. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

And here it is back on the engine! Rod is truly an artisan.

Thank you for the input everyone. I appreciate it very much. I have to make a correction to my initial claim that the car ran fine with the smog equipment in tact. Turns out the smog pump wasn't functional. So Rod stripped it down and rebuilt it with minor modifications. Per Rod, "The green ones are left out along with the blades (green arrows) . The front and rear bearings (red arrow) replaced and should last a lifetime. So the pump looks stock and functioning just not pumping air." We've decided to go this route because I want #187 to be enjoy daily. I don't want the headaches of garaging her every few months of driving. Plus, it's an easy reversal if we want to revert back to stock. As it was explained to me, by rendering it nonfunctional, many issues relating to idling can be traced back to the carbs, "as all other vacuum leaks will be eliminated." And with Bruce having rebuilt the carbs, we don't foresee any problem in the foreseeable future. As a side note, I'm not too concern about resale of #187 as she will never go on the market so long as I'm alive. In fact, she might accompany me to the afterlife as I'll be buried in her. ? So she started as a U.S. model and now has become Canadian 'eh'. ??

In keeping with the details, Rod wanted to salvage the air injection tubes with the exhaust manifold to get it plated. Unfortunately separating them without damage was a hurdle he couldn't overcome. So in his own words: "I wasn't able to get the air injection tubes out of the exhaust manifold so I just sent the whole manifold out to get plated. Then I removed the plating from the manifold. I think it came out great. Talk to you later." Addition by subtraction! Genius! As it was explained to me, these air injection tubes are more problematic than they are worth. So he'll decide in the near future whether to crimp/cap them off. Prior to tearing the engine down, the car ran good with them. Either way, the engine will retain its original look, the tubes may or may not be functional.

Rod did a dry fit of the carbs that came back from Z Therapy. It's amazing that you can hand a rusty, heavily oxidized SU carb setup, fuel rails, heat shield, etc., and they send you back this! Bruce, if you're on this forum, I just want to commend you and your team at Z Therapy for an amazing service and outstanding transaction! This picture doesn't do it justice. It looks better in person.

Thank you everyone! I'm looking forward to bring you more updates. It's good that you mentioned that. I thought it was bad patch job at some point in the past. Haha Motorman7 is right. The blue is much lighter in color. I believe it's because of the fluorescent lighting in the garage. I'm no physicist, but I recall that the color that you see is the color that is emitted off the surface. Perhaps fluorescent lights emit a darker blue band. Whereas when you use a flash, you get a more complete blue spectrum that hits the surface and bounces back to you. Don't quote me on that though. I'm just glad it looks better than 1/4" of oily grim. Haha

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/engine-bay/products/1970-datsun-240z-inspection-door-retainer-clips

Hello everyone! It's been about a year since I purchased #187 from John H. of New York on BAT. Here's the link to the auction. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-240z/ There are many detailed photos of the car on there with a brief description of its history and condition. I was able to enjoy her in her raw state before beginning the restoration. She was a bit hard to start but ran good once she reached optimal temperature. The clutch was slipping a bit and finding the gears heading up the hill to my house was a struggle. With that said, it was time to begin the restoration. My mechanic is no other than Rod S. at Mike's Z Shop in Whittier, CA. Rod has been working on Z cars for over 30 years and races his 260z in the ChampCar Endurance Series. https://champcar.org/ Perhaps some of you have raced with him or against him. Either way, he is an awesome guy, and I trust #187 to him. My immediate goal is to get the mechanical sorted out so she can get back on the road. Once that happens, I'll take her down to see Rich (motorman7), and perhaps with some luck, he'll be willing and able to take on the restoration project. My long term goal for her is a high quality refresh that I would have no reservations taking to a car show. I don't think she belongs locked up in a garage. So it’s pointless to perform a Concours restoration. She will run, and run often, maybe even as a daily driver. Here are some recent photos of the mechanical restorations. The engine and transmission were pulled in January of this year. The carbs were sent to Z Therapy and the combo and hazard switches were sent to Dave Irwin for a facelift. Both received outstanding care, and at a very reasonable price to boot! The plan is to bolt everything back on and bring her back to life in the next couple of weeks. Hopefully I can contain my excitement and remember to grab and post a video of the first restart after the rebuild. Stay tuned! One interesting note from our current findings was the existing mechanical wear and tear, or lack there of. Although there is no way to substantiate the mileage of the car (roughly 64,000 on the odometer), Rod said the internals of the engine looks to be 64K miles vs 164K or 264K, as there were very little wear, almost new. Nevertheless, she is good as new, and better now with the “brass seats” replaced with steel ones. Not sure what all that means other than that it can now better handle today’s 91 octane fuel. Please excuse the 2 early pictures of the engine/transmission coming out of the engine bay and disassembly of the engine. Rod is old-school and still had a flip phone when this project started. He didn’t know how to send pictures and so he printed them out for me. He has since upgraded his phone and now sends me more vivid pictures. He rebuilt the transmission himself. The head and block were sent out for machining. The oil pan and valve cover were bead-blasted and tumbled. The pan was repainted but it was important for me to maintain the glossy, not shinny, aluminum sheen of the valve cover. I am not a fan of the painted or mirror-polished look. I think he did a good job. All the bolts, screws, washers, etc., that came off the engine and transmission were polished and replated. The results speak for themselves. He figured it is best to do this now so Rich won’t have to redo them again. I will do my best to update everyone as we move along. That’s all for now.

Apply Rain-X to the outside and anti-fog to the inside. Anti-fog used on ski goggles work better than the stuff sold at auto supply stores. You can pick that up at Sports Chalet, REI, Big 5, etc. Make sure your phone is fully charged and AAA on speed dial. Enjoy the drive and be safe. Congrats on the new ride. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Gorgeous!

I would be interested in a few. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

$110 sent for 2 sets via PayPal. No hurries on the shipping. Probably won't be installed for another year or two. Haha

2 sets please Sent from my SM-G950U using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hurry Mike! I need my daily dose of motorman7 daily restoration progress. If I don't get it soon, I'm liable to wonder over to American muscle cars and return with grandiose idea of yanking an L and swapping in V8. [emoji30] Sent from my SCH-I535 using Z Car Club mobile app

That's gorgeous! Sent from my SCH-I535 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Masterful motorman7! What does one do about the often faded or scratched glove box lid? Does JustDash recondition the lid too or do you have to buy new?

I would Steve but there is no more room for your 240z and 260z.

Thank you motorman7! Shamefully I have to admit that there SPL311 chassis on the side of the house and another S30 behind the S30 that's next to #187.

#187 is home safely. We'll sort it out this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile