rosaluma

Thanks for checking...they are rare.

Sounds like a solid plan, thank you Patcon. Luckily, I saved the fitting from the exhaust manifold for them to match. I still need to extract the other fitting from the EGR intake.

Here's a pic of the entire assembly that I need. Anybody got one? You've got me by the short hairs, will pay dearly.

Can't find replacement tube, so, need some help finding the fittings for rebuilding an EGR tube on 77 280z. Need to smog it here in California. Smashed the original when removing the exhaust to run headers.

Amplifier positive to battery positive, negative to body ground. Receiver (radio) to the six pin connector. Both work fine.

Yes, Zed, car has run fine for a few months. Installed a sound system and shorted something out. Car turns over, runs, then stalls. Fuel pressure around 30 psi, before stalling. Fuel pump cuts out No tach, no alarm buzzer when key is turned to on. With key on, pushed AFM flap, fuel pump does not engage. Fusible link is fine.

Engine turns over, then stalls. Checked all fusible links, no issue. Fails first test of the EFI bible...no power at the plug to ECU.. Could use some advice, please.

Thanks for the input, Patcon. I'll go with 1" on front, and 1.5" on the rear.

Runs like a champ, albeit a little slappy. Will adjust valves, which will hopefully pull up compression, as well. Thank you Zed, for deterring me from purchasing ECU, saving me $250 +/-, which I will instead put towards wheel spacers. Any recommendations? Need about 1.5'-2" in the rear, and about 1"-1.5" on the front.

Found the problem, oil pump shaft is 180 degrees off. So, distributor would settle in 180 degrees off. Bad news is I dropped my 19mm socket down the engine cover. I tried magnets coat hangers, etc. I have to take the cover off....good times.

Yep, it was in the position located in the before image, before I tweeked. Now, its off the charts. Will put back, later tonight.

Cam lobes were positioned to spec. Not knowing better, I adjusted cam so #1 lobe was pointing straight up, which did not help....probably hurt. Now I have to go back to reset.

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I have had pops and flutters, but nothing to sustain it when the key is not in the start position. Will check cam lobe, etc. Don't want to replace ECU.

Thanks for the input, please any and all suggestions are helpful. I agree that the repair that the previous owner made looks good enough to me. With regards to the notes, they are mine, and are the readings you were requesting, earlier. I did listen to the injectors, and heard a rythmic clicking. The only three tests that were funky were pg 50, referring to pin 7 and 8 which go to the AFM, and pins 16 and 35. That being said, the factory service manual test indicated replacing the control unit, which at this point, is the next step. I was really hoping it was just a simple ground issue, though.