rosaluma

Thanks for checking...they are rare.

Sounds like a solid plan, thank you Patcon. Luckily, I saved the fitting from the exhaust manifold for them to match. I still need to extract the other fitting from the EGR intake.

Here's a pic of the entire assembly that I need. Anybody got one? You've got me by the short hairs, will pay dearly.

Can't find replacement tube, so, need some help finding the fittings for rebuilding an EGR tube on 77 280z. Need to smog it here in California. Smashed the original when removing the exhaust to run headers.

Amplifier positive to battery positive, negative to body ground. Receiver (radio) to the six pin connector. Both work fine.

Yes, Zed, car has run fine for a few months. Installed a sound system and shorted something out. Car turns over, runs, then stalls. Fuel pressure around 30 psi, before stalling. Fuel pump cuts out No tach, no alarm buzzer when key is turned to on. With key on, pushed AFM flap, fuel pump does not engage. Fusible link is fine.

Engine turns over, then stalls. Checked all fusible links, no issue. Fails first test of the EFI bible...no power at the plug to ECU.. Could use some advice, please.

Thanks for the input, Patcon. I'll go with 1" on front, and 1.5" on the rear.

Runs like a champ, albeit a little slappy. Will adjust valves, which will hopefully pull up compression, as well. Thank you Zed, for deterring me from purchasing ECU, saving me $250 +/-, which I will instead put towards wheel spacers. Any recommendations? Need about 1.5'-2" in the rear, and about 1"-1.5" on the front.

Found the problem, oil pump shaft is 180 degrees off. So, distributor would settle in 180 degrees off. Bad news is I dropped my 19mm socket down the engine cover. I tried magnets coat hangers, etc. I have to take the cover off....good times.

Yep, it was in the position located in the before image, before I tweeked. Now, its off the charts. Will put back, later tonight.

Cam lobes were positioned to spec. Not knowing better, I adjusted cam so #1 lobe was pointing straight up, which did not help....probably hurt. Now I have to go back to reset.

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I have had pops and flutters, but nothing to sustain it when the key is not in the start position. Will check cam lobe, etc. Don't want to replace ECU.

Thanks for the input, please any and all suggestions are helpful. I agree that the repair that the previous owner made looks good enough to me. With regards to the notes, they are mine, and are the readings you were requesting, earlier. I did listen to the injectors, and heard a rythmic clicking. The only three tests that were funky were pg 50, referring to pin 7 and 8 which go to the AFM, and pins 16 and 35. That being said, the factory service manual test indicated replacing the control unit, which at this point, is the next step. I was really hoping it was just a simple ground issue, though.

Both pin 16 and 35 connect at the same point. So, thought I'd take a look. Looks like the previous owner made some repairs. Anybody got an idea about repairing or replacing this section of the harness? Looks nasty to do, as it is buried in the dash.

Thank you for the continued help. What a great learning experience. Hope this gets me closer to solving the problem. Factory Service Manual indicates the Control Unit is bad, and to replace. However, I decided to go through the test in the bible and came up with the attached. Pg 50 indicates the AFM needs testing, as the resistance between pin 7 and 8 is more than minimal. Pg 58 and 60 indicate No Continuity in vehicle ground on pins 16 and 35. Here is a picture of the fusable links. The fuel injection fusible link doesn't normally sit out like that, I pulled it out for better visability. I also noticed that pins 11 and 12 are switched from the diagram in the bible. I am assuming that is related to California model, altitude switch.

All tests were done at the 35-pin connector. I have used the Fuel Injection Guide, as well. Not sure what you mean by real numbers. Continuity shows up as .000. Battery voltage shows up during the tests that indicate such.

Cracked open the Factory Service Manual and tested continuity on all components...all passed. Will start testing each component per the manual.

Sprayed the starter fluid in between the AFM and the throttle body...still no start. I'm leaning towards vacuum leak. Won't be able to get to it until Thursday. Thanks for helping.

Yes, closed elbow, not a tee. FYI, the tach flutters when attempting to start, so I assume it is connected. Will run the bible troubleshoot test again and report results. Last night, all were either continuity or battery voltage, as indicated in the test.

I remove #1 spark plug, and install small dummy plug. When the dummy plug pops, I have #1 at compression. Crank is at TDC, rotor on distributor is at #1. Plug wires are all in proper sequence, 153624, counter clockwise. Oil pump shaft (new) is about 5-7 degrees off of two holes in distributor mount. Turn key to start, no start. Cold start valve injector is firing...see light. Main injectors do not light. Fuel pressure is at 36 psi. Fuel pump engages when switch activated in the AFM intake flap is pushed. Timing gear at the cam is set near the notch on the face plate of the cam. Car still does not start, even with starter fluid.

Thanks for your patience and help. I checked spark by pulling the plugs, had them laid out on the fender when i turned the engine over, all plugs sparked blue...checked gap, etc. Will pull the valve cover off and check the location of the notch on the cam sproket, again, when 1 is at compression. I do not have the EFI ground that is near the CSV conn in siteunseen's picture.

Attached are pictures of the engine. I do not have the EFI ground in the picture provided by siteunseen. Will try to attach the video of attempt to turn it over. Note the second half of the video when the engine struggles less is when the clutch pedal is actually NOT engaged, which concerns me as to whether the fork on the throwout bearing is installed properly, after we replaced seals and bearing. car.wmv

Zed, found your comment on another thread about AFM ground. I am not confident I have it properly grounded. Will update tomorrow.