Everything posted by vtvette
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Engine bay inspection lamp restoration question....
Hello Phil, I removed the lamp assembly by first heating the ground wire with a soldering iron and using a solder sucker in the center of the bulb contact removing the wire. I then heated the ground wire soldered to the hook on the bottom of the Inspection Light and used a soldered sucker to remove the solder attaching the ground wire. At this point both wires were removed and the lamp assembly was free to remove from the wires. If you choose to go this route be sure to be careful removing the small brown composite positive bulb contact at the center of the Inspection Light. There is a small metal washer on which the positive wire is soldered be sure to be careful when the solder is removed not to loose it. Below the brown composite washer is a spring be sure to watch for that as well. This is just one way to disassemble the Inspection Light. Hope this helps, Brian
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Engine bay inspection lamp restoration question....
Hi Phil, I apologize I have not replied to your PM earlier I am just now seeing your message and for some reason the forum won't seem to let me reply to PM's. To answer your question yes I de-soldered the wire from the lamp housing, not at the bulb socket. One side of the wire is soldered to the lamp housing and the other I believe goes to the switch. If you are still working on this project I believe I have pic's of my lamp when I disassembled it I am happy to send your way. Again, I apologize for the belated reply. Brian
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keep blowing the fuse for the dash lights/tail lights/park lights, Please help.
I bet you're right Steve. I'll check this tomorrow. The only other wiring issue I had was the parking lights would not come on. I traced the circuit to the parking light stalk switch which had power at the green/blue wire where the wire is soldered to the switch board. The green/white wire leading from the switch to the parking lights did not have power . I fiddled with the switch and presto! all lights working now. I'll either look into disassembling/cleaning the switch or, if that's not possible replace it. All other circuits in the car seem to be working 100%.
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keep blowing the fuse for the dash lights/tail lights/park lights, Please help.
Final update - the under hood inspection light must be shorted internally. I unhooked it and presto - the light went out. I re-plated/rebuilt this light must have an internal short.
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keep blowing the fuse for the dash lights/tail lights/park lights, Please help.
Update: I unplugged the 6 pin connector leading out of the fuse box and the test light still jumped in place of the fuse goes out. With the 6 pin connector disconnected I connected each pin from the male side of the 6 pin connector to it's corresponding pin on the female side of the connector. When I connected the green/blue wire the test light came on again. It appears I have a short in the green/blue wire. I'm off to lunch more diagnosis when I return.
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keep blowing the fuse for the dash lights/tail lights/park lights, Please help.
Hello Steve, I am completing a rotisserie restoration on a '71 240z. All functioned fine before the car was disassembled. I just hooked the battery up for the first time today and Park/Tail fuse blows instantly. I am having the same problem as the original poster - my 20amp Park/Tail fuse blows instantly when installed. The parking light switch is in the off position. If you don't mind a few questions: 1) You mention connectors C3 and C5. In all my literature pertaining to the wiring harness I cannot find any reference to "C" connector designations. Which connectors are these? 2) You reference sections BE-15 and BE-17 of the FSM. In the FSM I have page BE-15 pertains to diagnosing the Speedo, water temp and fuel gauge and page BE-17 refers to the wiper motor system? Should I be looking at these systems for a blown park/tail fuse? 3) This fuse should be hot at all times correct? IIRC the parking lights can be turned on with the engine off and key out. I've removed the fuse and inserted a test light in it's place. I've gone around the vehicle and disconnected all parking/tail/plate/marker lights but the test light glows uninterrupted. Reading the wiring schematic it appears the park/tail fuse supplies power to the under hood inspection light as well as the combination switch on the column. I've disconnected both of these but the test light glows uninterrupted. I will continue to study the FSM and perform tests. If you have any ideas to aid in my diagnostic I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! Brian