Rob1972

You're right there shouldn't be, but replacement parts are made cheaper and with less accuracy than ever before. For example, check out the arm placement on my previous three pumps: My current pump arm almost touches the chain and is off the eccentric by half! I doubt Nissan would have made it that way. Anyway, the arm seems to operate fine, but the pump can't draw fuel from a jar of fuel three inches below the (new) filter. Not a drop. It operated fine for a year then failed. I believe this is correct, gasket/spacer/gasket:

Thanks siteunseen: I saw that before and was intimidated at first, but after studying it I think I can do this. Thanks. gundee: That is how I thought I would do it - I think a bit of safety is in order for me, so I'll go with the oil pressure switch. I'm teaching my daughter to drive a manual, don't need to have a fire. Bad example for her! For some reason the fuel pump harness with green and black/white was clipped into a connector that I now think is the fog light harness. Why I can't tell you but I don't think anyone's ever done anything in there. Not hacked up at all. Oh well. I did do a continuity check on the thick green wire and it definitely runs to the rear green wire. 👍

So madkaw, by a 'loop' do you mean it's a like a jumper? The black/white simply connects to the green? I could make that - needs a 20A fuse too.

Mechanical fuel pumps have been letting me down - I'm 0 for 3 in the last 15 months. (2 from RockAuto, 1 from NAPA). Thought I'd convert to electric and have done my reading on the basics on this conversion. I have the green/black wire pair near the tank, and found the main power supply at the console (I think). This is how I found it near the fuse block Black/White and thick green on the left- that's correct right? I have power to the big black/white at key position RUN. I thought that connector would be disconnected, but I'm surprised to find it connected to green/white, red and red/blue. I think those have something to do with the illumination of the old automatic shifter / choke light. I converted to a 5speed manual long ago. I was expecting the single solid green wire/connector from the rear to be hanging loose. The passenger footwell appears to be completely intact with no green wire unattached. Not sure where to look next...first forray into 12V systems.

Beginning buildup of my '72 240Z and a F54 / P90a with triple carbs...looking at notches for injectors and choices for manifold gaskets. I've seen lots of gaskets that follow the outline of the notches and another one that covers the notch. Seems to me that for better airflow I should block the notch with the full circle style gasket. Recommendations? Also wondering if some have welded the notches up and grind as necessary.

Need Time Sert installation tool to convert P90A hydraulic lifters to mechanical. The job requires threaded inserts (easy and inexpensive) using a special tool only available in a complete kit including bit, countersink, tap & installation tool (one-time use and very expensive - $200+). I only need the installation tool. Size M18 1.5 but with special threading at tip. Anyone have the kit or individual tool for sale, rent or ??? I'm trustworthy. Rob in Arizona

Whew! Shaving those costs down by producing the identical part for two purposes. Thanks!

I knew that installing my car lift would be a boon for really seeing the truth under my 240. For years, I've laid on concrete in the dark trying to get an accurate picture of its condition. What I was surprised to see in the light of day was the rear control arm on the passenger side oriented so that the 'concave' or 'recesses' are facing down. The drivers side rear control arm is oriented in the opposite fashion - facing up. Is this 'Datsun design' or a mechanic's Friday afternoon special? Passenger side (looking rearward): Driver's side (looking rearward):

Very do-able. I went a step further than plugs - replaced my balance tube with one that is smoothed and polished, only a single vacuum port for the brake booster. At some point I'm going to add a port to the balance tube for my vacuum advance, rather that using the carb port. Dump the smog pump and attachments as well.

When I was just a young pup, working my first real job, I shared on office with an older guy named Carl. Carl was a chain smoker and loved the bottle. He was a decent enough worker, but the best thing about Carl was that he drove a 1972 240Z. You couldn’t miss it because it was painted the infamous factory #112 (Yellow). Let’s face it, that color is not yellow, it is chartreuse or some other blend of yellow and green. What it really was though, was memorable. At least for me. I wanted a 240Z. A few years later when my Datsun 510 Wagon blew its head gasket, I nosed around for a 240Z, but didn’t find much. I didn’t work really hard at it, because my friends all said to avoid the dual carbs, and go with fuel injection. I didn’t know too much about carbs at the time, so I went with that advice and found a ’76 280Z. Bad choice. Within a month, all six fuel injectors clogged and had to be replaced, gas tank and lines flushed, etc. Goodbye $1000. Later, I found broken glass in the spare tire wheel well. Hmmm. Oh well, I loved the car anyway and proceeded to drive the snot out of that baby for 5 years. I got tired of the lack of air conditioning in the 280, and when the MAF failed, I faced a $1200 decision. The car already had over 100K miles, and I was moving to Phoenix so A/C is a must. I bought a new Honda, and let the idea of the 240Z go, but not completely. Ten years and three cars later, I revisited the idea of finding a 240 again. It didn’t have to be my daily driver and I was better versed in auto repair, so the carbs didn’t scare me as much. I did eventually find one, in the same way everyone found them pre-Internet: After negotiating the price down, not because of condition, but because I really wanted a stick shift, and to have to replace the tranny and buy a clutch was going to cost so very much, blah, blah, blah…. $2700 was agreed on. I did convert it over to a 5 speed and installed a 4.11 rear-end, but about that time, my wife and I started to raise our family, remodeling the house and (many) other distractions, and the 240 never really got to the top of the pile. Ashamedly, I used the Z more as a table than a driving car. Drove it off and on over 20 years, mostly letting the work I did to get it running go to waste as it sat again for a few years. With an 18 year old about to go off to college, and managing to get the 240 to the top of the list (at times), I’ve really been able to focus on getting him running strong, carbs perfectly tuned. Loving the daily drives to the grocery store, or winding roads to the high country. Still a lot of work to do, but very drivable and still looks very good to this day, with the 20 year old Arizona white paint still deep and glossy. I’ve put more miles on him in the last six months than I have in the previous 20 years! The ironic part of this car story? Under the white paint is the original color, for all to see in the engine bay - yep, you guessed it - #112 Yellow - just like Carl’s from 36 years ago!

Yeah, it was just a mental blip that zoomed through my little head. I'm not a pimp. Really. But I love those louvres, Sean. Nice work, I will follow your refresh on them, as mine jump around too. I have a receipt for them from 1979...$99.00

Yes they fit a 240... Long term plan is to go with Candy Red with black and chrome accents. Would I be pimped out if I chromed the louvres? Opinions?

Sweatybetty has a build going where he used a new wire harness, it's pretty sweet: kwikwire.com http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?do=findComment&comment=495152 hope that link worked Nice car...!

Body color, Betty.

RS02, in post 51 you question your float level, but now you say you're sure the bowls are fine. The two are closely related - if the banjo filters are caked with corrosion and fine particles (like mine were), your float level will not be correct during operation because the fuel flow could be very restricted.