xtinc

SOLD 1972 240Z, less then 600 miles on rebuilt engine. L26 bored .030, early E88 head. Triple Weber carbs DCOE 40mm w/K&N filters. Ceramic coated MSA header, 2.5” exhaust with a Dynomax Bullet pre muffler and stainless steel Magnaflow muffler. Electronic ignition, CraneCams HI-6S ignition unit, PS-91 high output ignition coil, and Taylor 8mm ignition wires. Suspension recently rebuilt with Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, Suspension Technique performance springs, Tokico performance struts, and new ball joints. 5 speed transmission, 15.5Lbs flywheel, and 3.9 rear end. Brakes are stock, but in good working condition. Body and interior is in good condition with fairly new coat of paint and minimal rust. Slight damage in rear (see pics). This is a very nice looking car that turns a lot of heads and gets a bunch of compliments. Car peforms very well and is a blast to drive. Several parts included if buyer wants them - Set of 4 Classic American Racing Libre wheels with good tires, 2 ea square port headers, Original SU carbs w/intake manifolds and stock air cleaner, original engine block (matching number), L24 long block with E31 head..and more. Clear title and current registration. Car is located in Vacaville California, 40 miles east of San Francisco, 35 miles west of Sacramento. Only interested in dealing locally cash & carry), will not consider long distant transaction. Serious buyers only! Lot more pictures located here More Pictures Please inquire at xtinc2001@yahoo.com

I'm running MSA 6-1 ceramic coated headers with 2.5" piping. I used a Dynomax bullet muffler about halfway down and a Magnaflow SS muffler at the rear. The car has a low growl from idle to about 3500 then starts to scream after that. The dynomax really helps to eliminate the resonance.

Car is sold....can't find the delete button

Phred, Thanks for the info and peace of mind. The chain guides and tensioner do have flat washers installed, but I'm going to take your advice to locktite and retorque. Tom

I also used the How to Rebuild book, on page 131 it says "adjust so there is no clearance between the backside of the tensioner shoe and housing". I did count and verify proper link count between cam and crank timing marks, I also checked piston to valve clearance and it's good. Thanks for the reply an I'll try contacting Phred

Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor, an L26 block and early E88 head. I purchased the block from a guy who gave up on his Z project, it had been rebuilt by a reputable shop, bored .030, polished crank, and balanced. I noticed the spec sheet indicated the deck had been shaved, but didn't indicate exactly how much. I'm assuming very minimal to clean the deck surface. The E88 came off my L24, I wasn't the original owner so not sure of previous head work, but the machine shop also shaved a very nominal amount to clean up head surface, timing components are new. I installed the timing set with everything at TDC, lined up the bright links with timing marks using the #1 setting, the timing notch lined up perfect with the cam plate. Now for the question. No matter what adjustment I make to the tension side guide, I cannot get the tensioner to pop out any less then 3/16". According to the manual tensioner should sit flush against tensioner housing. Is this due to the deck and head being shaved? and is this acceptable?

Thanks for the compliments:classic:

I created a website for my Z obession, check it out. http://home.comcast.net/~thcastro