heyitsrama

I like the connectors that vintage connections has, the density of the metal they use to make the terminal end is more than the ones that I got on amazon. Also the rubber sleeves they have are look more "period correct". All in all it makes the wiring feel more secure. I almost broke down and rewired the engine harness again, i talked myself out of it, i forgot my reasoning though. For most wires in the car I think 18 gauge TLX/GLX wiring will be sufficient depth on the length. I ended up ordering https://www.wirebarn.com/11-Pack-of-18-Gage-GXL-Wire---------------------ELEVEN-11-Colors-25-Foot-Each-Color----------BlackRedBlueGreenYellowBrown-White-Orange-Pink-Violet-Gray_p_550.html As well as some 12guage GLX wire for lines that draw more power... this wire is certainly better than the stuff at the local hardware store, for the price its probably cheaper too. You'll want to get some open barrel crimpers to make this all come together, https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-26-16AWG-0-14-1-5mm²-Connectors-Terminals/dp/B00OMMZ502/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=open+barrel+crimper&qid=1628662108&sr=8-21 should do the trick, I like the removable dies in the crimps, at least if i start modernizing the engine harness i can go grab a new set of dies that match the terminal style. Are the ends of the red wires melted? The blue plastic looks a bit weird.

+1 coilovers 🙂

I was cleaning out my Corolla a couple years after I got it and found a fat joint in the rear seat where the belt buckle clip comes out. Shame it was all dried up, found it too late!

Ah! I think there is a difference between the. 240z and the 260/280z racks in regards to that bushing. There are some threads about this…

One of the sources of shake for me was the torque on the tension control arm. These cars seem to be sensitive when it comes to steering…. unless your @siteunseen his car apparently is butter smooth 🙂

It would probably be best to look at the Wiring diagram in the FSM, and double check if all the wires are in the correct spot.

I think the t3 brace is a really good option. I built my own after their model. The body roll is what I wanted to minimize, I felt like when I was in a turn the front of the car was behaving like a wobbling ladder. Small write up here: https://specterbyte.com/cornering-stablity/ good thing you saved some pesos on the outers eh? 🙂 did you get the triangulation back to the firewall?

oooooo very shiny. I think you can run just 1 catch can, and have a splitter that joins right before they input into the can. Something like I've been wanting to run a catch can too, my beef is I don't like how they fit in the engine bay, i kinda want it tucked... Do you feel you chassis flexing in turns on the track? I notice you're not running any bracing.

Oh nice! Hopefully no damage to the car from the fire?

A few years back @Captain Obvious turned my old skateboard veneers into a shifter knob. It’s cool to keep using the old board, lots of memories with it…. Reduce, reuse, recycle I guess 🙂 The new one is slightly larger, so it fits my hands better…

be careful with the bellows/boots, their like $80 a pop 😞

I was not aware of another manufacturer making a left sided inner tie rod, my assumption was that unless you're getting NOS, you'll have to use the double right from Rare Parts. Please update with pictures if you can. 🙂

Some (most?) end up just getting two right inners and then match it two two right outers, that’s why t3 sells two right outers together. I guess another reason to go with moog if you don’t wanna spend the cash on repairing the inner too. When it’s time for the inner to go you’ll need to change one of the outers.

@Ownallday `rare parts` makes a replacement inner rod, i have them on my 260z.

This is how i did it, does your bolt not line up with the access hole? might have to make a little clamping tool....

I think the 240mm clutch setup will work with a stock flywheel as long as the bearing sleeve has also been replaced to match the pressure plate. I was not able to find an economical solution to get my OEM flywheel lightened, it was cheaper for me to order the fidanza one, I called up Rebello and asked if they recommended a shop in the area that could do it for me, but the gent on the phone said that they just order them new/lightend. Take a look at the thread I linked, i have some references to Exedys product catalogs. @EuroDat helped me out when i was looking for parts/fixing the rattle, maybe he can confirm my understandings....

To my understanding a smaller diameter clutch will bite/engage harder because of the reduced surface area and mass. With the larger clutch you retain the engaging characteristics to be closer to "OEM" yet are able to get the benefit of a lighter flywheel (better throttle response). I'm quite happy with the setup. perhaps others can chime in....

Note this parts list is for a 240mm clutch, I like the feel, others have also advocated for the light flywheel, larger clutch combo. I think this is everything, the Bearing Sleeve needs to match the pressure plate setup..... Coutesey Nissan Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total 32862-E9300 Control Lever Boot $5.94 1 $5.94 30501-K0404 Bearing Sleeve $24.13 1 $24.13 32710-14600 Seal-Oil $1.22 1 $1.22 30534-E9000 Clutch Release Arm Spring $2.33 1 $2.33 30514-14600 Clutch Release Bearing Clip $4.25 1 $4.25 32103-U840B Plug-Drain $8.82 1 $8.82 RockAuto Exedy 06030 Clutch Kit $ 105.89 Amazon Fidanza Flywheel 143281 -- $314.32 https://www.amazon.com/Fidanza-143281-Aluminum-Flywheel/dp/B000ECTQ4A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fidanza+240z&qid=1626714849&sr=8-5

PB always got me unstuck. I’ve also used a mix of ATF and PB, and let it sit for extended periods of time. Some people really like Kroil, I’ve never used it (can’t seem to find it locally)…

Have you inspected the shifter strike rod for leaks? There is an o-ring inside the tail housing that you can only replace if the gearbox is pulled. Here is my thread about it: There is also some notes about a lightened flywheel, let me know if you need a parts list for the clutch setup, I can get you the finalized parts list.

https://googlethatforyou.com/?q=classiczcars dome light repair top hit

Yeah I have a topic on this, you can search for it.

Most go to Rebello, have you called them? They always pickup my calls ha. I've used Star Machining out of Emeryville for other work... For head work I was advised by my local machine shop, L & O Machine Shop, to go to American Cylinder Head in Oakland. I went there, but never had work done by them, the machinist said I probably did not need to have anything done to the head. Seems like there are not many machineshops/builds around here anymore, you can reach out to Troy Ermish and ask him for advice, but even he moved his shop from Fremont out to the Central Valley a couple years ago.

My car is a mess at the moment, let me know if you need something more specific. I think the later body 260z might be closer to a 280z, I have an early body 260z and the seatrails are similar to a 240z, this might change the carpet layout. You can see where my heel has worn into the carpet on the drivers side… more stuff to fix….

I bought my set from Chester & Herod back when they were in California, the fit is very nice. I just have 2 issues with it, 1. The driver and passenger mats don't have slits in them to allow for the tabs on the floor to prevent them from sliding forward. I ended up cutting the slits into them...no biggie, but would be nice if they slit it for you, and had the ends stitched over to prevent them from fraying out. 2. In the trunk mat some of the edges have started to fade... its been probably 2 years since i bought them. It might have been me, i don't remember leaving the mats in the sun for an extended period of time. The fade is isolated to the stitching along the edge, the mat itself has not changed color. I would go with them again.