heyitsrama

Imgur works, but you can also just upload images to this site.

I attempted to change my u-joints out and messed up the balance so bad on a set of half-shafts that they are pretty much trash.... Its uneconomical to replace the ujoints i used with OEM ones, and get them balanced. To get them balanced in the Bay Area I was quoted at $100 per shaft. I was able to find someone selling a complete suspension setup for $100, included the rear end, and used the shafts from there... Maybe just clean them and paint?

what do you have planned for the half shafts? 👀

@AK260 these are great, feel free to send me the exhaust parts you did not use and ill test them to see if they sound different in the states. :^) Can we get some more photos of the twin vertical pipe setup? Want to see how it fits the exit on the rear valance.

There are filters at the banjo for the SU carbs, steel mesh. My setup would flood because there was crud that would enter through that filter and jam the float needle. Inspect them for debris.

Wowow great to know, the owner of the locks wanted me to ship them back ASAP, but I’ll keep it in mind for next time.

@CanTechZ yeah I was thinking that’s really the only spot you can get started with, if I come across a spare I’d love to try it out and document it. the ignition was not to bad, you have to remove the pin that’s jammed into the body and the tumbler housing, 3 small drill spots and can push it out. @Captain Obvious IMO another reason I kinda like the later series cars more….. and the HVAC panel…. I repinned it on my 260z I thought it would be easy on the 240z as well.

Just to some food for thought about locks.... If you are looking to re-key your locks make sure that all 6 lock cylinder housings accept the same key type. I just had a passenger door lock that i opened up only to find that the housing will not accept its mirror key style. When i was testing some keys out, a very worn out OEM Nissan Key that was mirrored to the housing fit, but the key that I was setting them all to did not fit into the housing. The worn out key was worn out enough to get stopped by the housing. I don't think that the glovebox housing can be re-keyed, I could not find a way to open the housing, it might be possible without total destruction. The later style dashboards can have their housings re-keyed. Ideally you can source the key from the glovebox, then key everything to that. If you have to re-key the set, pray that you don't have to mess with the door locks, their a pain in the arse to open, the replacement face caps from Auto-Security Products is not a good match, so you'll have to reuse it. Stuck: Fits:

Sometimes it’s hard to see if they are cracked through. Not sure if aftermarket quality… I used OEM.

https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=280zx distributor advance&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy It depends on the distributor, read this thread, theres a spread sheet in there:

Black Wrinkle, then sand off the lines and letters like @siteunseen . If you opt to get any wrinkle coats, use a hand-held heat gun to get the wrinkle finish consistent. I learned this when I used it to coat the triangulation brace.

what the door striker side look like?

I noticed on my 74 car that some rust had started to build up in that spot. Was it just 2 spot welds from the bottom to get it reinstalled?

@grannyknot looks like that one has double the force that the 4777 can produce, makes sense only one in the 70-73 chassis…

Jack up the car and take a look, you can see if the joints have play in them. If you find it’s a joint problem have a reputable shop replace the ujoints, I just trashed half-shafts that I tried to do myself. There are a couple of different clunks this car can make, and I think we have figured out most of not all of them, just have to tell us when it happens. it could be that’s the exhaust is off one of the supports that it has so it’s slapping around down there. you won’t know till you go down there.

If you lay down under the fuel tank and get a photo it will be easier to tell. It looks like the exhaust going under the diff mount… +1 on the techoniversions diffmount, it’s great. If the diff is bouncing around you might need a new lower diff mount too. some people make new straps, that’s also been documented in other threads.

AIRTEX E8016S from rockauto, search the forum people write about it. Only use 1 fuel filter with it. I went with a filter between the tank and pump.

The strap can be removed without dropping the diff, depending on what you replace it with you might need to drop the diff to install the parts.

@dutchzcarguy 😞 live and learn i suppose. "dont mess with things that spin" I pulled the passenger side haft-shaft from the other Z... The half-shaft on the early 260z is different, there is no spline adapter for the half-shaft at the differential, its just a splined yoke directly on the half-shaft. Actually thinking about it, the "unbalanced" half-shafts can only go into a r180 with the same spline count, it wont work for a 3.90 STI diff because it cant accept the spline.... Do ya'll use lock-tite on the halfshafts hardware?

Super fast shipping, they came in today :0 They included all the hardware too! I think this will work on 1973 models as well, I did not try to fit it into the car, but by eyeball it looks like it will go in smooth. @CanTechZ This might be the way to go for your car too, I should have ordered another one for my white car and used the free shipping 😕

2 shops in the area that can do balancing, one is asking $190 per half shaft. I wonder how they balance without adjustable snap rings? Do they weld weights like a prop shaft? Seems like it would be permanent and it would have to be rebalanced at a later time, if the ujoint fails.

@Zed Head I think this is the problem. The new joints are not balanced to the one size fits all snap-ring. So find new ones? $ pay for nicer ujoints? $$ Balance? $$? upgrades? o/ $$🔥🔥🔥

It looks like the same company has a new hatch strut for the 260-280z models. This might also work with a 240z, my 73 model appears to have a similar design (although just 1 strut). https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4777-gas-charged-hatchback-lift-support/ I ordered a set, I'll update when they get here.

@Shawninvancouver by reducing the number of threads created you enable others to get see the progression of a discussion (and the progression of the steps that you are attempting while troubleshooting).In the future this also allows for threads to be located by new members, or by people that are searching the web for references to their problems. Reducing threads also encourages other members to come back to a discussion and offer input. For example, the discussion is not fragmented across multiple threads we can reference this thread about distributor shaft positioning:

What kind of problem do you have with getting into reverse? I find myself putting the gearbox into 1st or 3rd and lurching a bit with the clutch, then I can try for reverse. Otherwise sometimes it feels like I cannot pull the gear lever back into place.