heyitsrama

New clutch collars are available from Courtesy Parts Nissan in Texas as well, I just ordered mine from there. Here was the thread.

@smaceng I've seen one in person it looked pretty nice. I think Vintage Dashes is based in San Mateo / Redwood City you might be able to go to their shop check it out / pick one up.

I'm working on modifying my steering column to have power assist, one of the things that needs to be addressed is how the modified column attaches to the steering rack. There are some people that use a Woodward UA113109 coupler at the steering rack then replace entire OEM steering coupler from the rack to the column with a 3/4 DD rod that connects to a Saturn Vue collapsible coupler. I think that its a good approach to go that way, you have a collapsible section for the steering, in the event of a front impact that does not crush you inside the tin can, you might not get impaled.... But doing so will remove the beloved rubber/poly/solid puck from the steering coupler. So the question is why is there a puck in the OEM setup? I was thinking that perhaps its there to allow for adjustment between the output of the steering column and the steering coupler, and to provide a cheap way to connect them together. Interestingly the OEM Saturn Setup does not have a puck between them, and I dont think I've seen it on other modern cars..... IIRC the OEM rubber pucks are NLA so we only have poly (energy suspension) and metal (T3) as replacement options has anyone used these? I think the setup that I have planned would have a similar coupler style (less play)....

We will need to do some shock therapy to figure out why it bothers you. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/union-sangyo-oil-filters.286421/ some people compare them to denso. ive been using bosche ones from https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,engine,oil+filter,5340

Context?

I think another forum member recently had an issue with his booster that he got from a supplier, unfortunately they sent in the old one as a core exchange. makes me even more inclined to say rebuild is the way to go.

I think your web browser settings might allow you to increase the font size. You can also use “control and +” at the same time to increase font size and “control and -“ to decrease font size. ”control and 0” to reset it. on a Mac you have to press “command” rather than control.

Maybe ‘Datsun Spirit’ can sort you out, they posted these photos.

I might go back to OEM rubber. it’s hard to make a streetable track car… or a trackable street car. I did por-15 then spray an on my suspension, it turned out pretty good. If you don’t do powder coating it would be worth to get a cheapo harbor freight paint gun and paint everything with that. Should save time. oh make sure you stamp the orientation of the yoke ends of the half-shafts. I def messed that up the last time I was in my car, might be 180 out, who knows I can’t tell. ง︡’-‘︠)ง If the tension control arm is super rusted out it might be worth getting new ones, there are some threads you can read about them snapping on people when they switched to poly on both sides for the body mounts. oh if your going to lower the car it might be worth taking the time to modify the control arm pivot location on the subframe. There are some “bump-steer” threads you can read about. But I found after switching to eibach springs there was a lot of bump steer. I used t3 NCRCAs because I did not have the car apart.

Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, they also have a location in So-Cal, get them to power coat it too, they rust out fast.

The little red cover is blocking it off!

Nice wheels!

Interesting that it randomly gave out. Did you change anything to the ignition system? im guessing you have seen this thread?

What sort of tacho issues are you having?

If there’s not a little book in the glove box that has that information it might be hard to get. My car was a Cali car but it was “out of the system” as they say. Great time to make a book that has this information in it. I keep service records and general information about how the car drives.

IIRC All the pilot bearings are the same for any l-series motor (it was also used on other motors too) I think you have something mated to the back end of the crank, it might need to be removed in the same manor as a pilot bearing if it is installed within the pilot bearing hole. My preferred way to remove pilot bearings is to pack it with grease, then push the grease out using a solid rod of steel and a hammer. You really have to put pressure on the grease to get it to push out the bearing. See these layers before the threads?

Was the l24 out of a automatic car?

i measured my spare od is the same as you have. is there a flange on the end of that crank? this is what the flywheel end looks like.

There was an issue with how the model was oriented in the print file. Got it reworked. The bad one came out pretty nice.

I pulled the spacer from the driver side to make a model of it. Sketched this up as a replacement for the one that broke because the lack of a spacer. Need to model the spacer and print them out.

Ah so that spacer is goes behind the top arm rest bolt it keeps the door panel from bending and the trip clip from breaking. not optional 😞 now where did the passenger side one go? 😓

Looks like the front bumper has been slightly modified. https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-spotted-testing-in-colorado.408/

I don’t think an RT mount will fit without additional modifications because your differential is moved… Check out this thread @Clay C any advise for this?

Exhaust studs can snap, so be careful. Might want to spray some penetrating oil on them while you wait for parts, just to let them soak. When you assemble it back together use anti-seize. I think there is an ordering to remove the exhaust hardware, you work from the middle cylinders out to the ends, this is to avoid binding (similar to install/removal of a head) I’m not sure how important this is. Maybe someone else can chime in…

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html I was changing out my fuel filter at my buddies hose and getting fuel all over his garage when he showed me these. Wish I knew about them years ago, so much fuel down my arm. Helps when you’re messing with coolant lines to.