heyitsrama
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Everything posted by heyitsrama
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@Zed Head I know a lot of people just run that upper mount with good success but I have a dumb question; what happens if that poly material fails? Does the diff just drop, and the driveshaft holds it up?
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I was looking at the install orientation for a OEM diff mount over the weekend and i saw that someone was using that diff mount here. https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/04/23/performance/parts-z-car-garage-cv-axles-for-chris-1970-datsun-240z.html Might be able to message them on: https://www.instagram.com/kikcaffine/ .....Not sure if they are on the forum. What keeps you from using the OEM mount?
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if you really need a bolt ill send you some.....
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Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BnBrWpTHCbU/?utm_medium=copy_link
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I've been trying to track down some resonant vibrations in the car that happen at ~62-68 MPH. It feels like the hatch vibrating away on something, maybe its the precision seal thats not letting the hatch sit? I dont see any wear marks. Only feel the resonance on the hatch panel. I replaced the diff fluid, went from 75w-90 to some 80w-90 that i had in the shed. I pulled the driver side axle to inspect the u-joints, i removed the u-joints to inspect for any binding, reinstalled the u-joints. I then sat around and though about what else could be the problem and realized I had a new diff mount in my parts pile, so i replaced that as well. The resonance has somewhat been reduced, but its still present...😞
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Oil pan removal question (oil pickup?)
heyitsrama replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Maybe that top `drain` is for a turbo? you know the rules right? You have to turbo your motor now that your oil pan supports it. 😛 I dont make the rules i just point them out. -
I don’t think that is a safe location to lift the car up, the control arms can bend with too much force on them. Place the jack stands in accordance to the service manual. I personally place them below the doglegs there is a spot there that feels secure. a wise friend once told me; “we are going to have to remove it for access anyway, so just remove it.” Don’t try to skip steps here, you’re only making it harder.
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That paint looks great, should get my car painted… looks well worth. @cgsheen1
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1978 was the first year of a gear-reduction starter, these ones are more efficient, and a direct bolt into our cars, you can use the one from datsun-garage or linked below. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/duralast-remanufactured-starter-16584/860650_0_0 Autozone has 20% off orders of $100, so if you needed something else you can get a nice little discount + free shipping.
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might be easier and more cost effective for a autocross setup.
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@S30Driver when you fill gas is there a little sticker on the machine that shows you how much in state + federal tax you pay per gallon?
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In the US phone/data plans can be a bit expensive. I ordered a few of these https://www.apple.com/airtag/ I’m going to tape one somewhere in the car. It gets updated when other people with iPhones are nearby. Battery lasts a year, and don’t have to pay for any service fees. @AK260 don’t you have a 123ignition? Those have ignition kill security built into it. my problem with some of these devices is that I don’t trust the people that are operating the backend networks, how do I know that they are not misusing my information, it looks like a service from in China, what happens when the service goes down or gets shut down?
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You might be onto something about the summer blend. I’ll give it the old sniff test to make sure…. I’m sure you can find some stuff out there, worlds a big place. I started taking walks after work, 10 hours on a computer is too much. @Tweeds https://www.darkreading.com/operations/colonial-pipeline-cyberattack-what-security-pros-need-to-know/d/d-id/1340970 US infrastructure needs security hardening. But then again people are always doing dumb $^!# like sticking random USBs into their computer that they found at the work parking lot.
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Big ooof. $4.30 in California. everyone get electric cars and save the gas for the enthusiasts. 🙂 hopefully the donut shops are still getting customers.
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Oil pan removal question (oil pickup?)
heyitsrama replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
PLA might hold up if you just need to use it a couple times, and there's not a ton of torque applied to the fastener. Can maybe increase the in-fill density to 70% and give it a try. Can you post up some photos of the oilpan when you get it off? Interested in some photos of how it was made. -
Oh also, I used a copper based hard line, ordered like 25ft of it so I can make other subsections. I would not use stainless It’s a complete pain to try to bend it let alone flare it. You’ll have to invest in more tooling if you want to mess with stainless lines.
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@mailnome I can vouch for that tool, it’s so much faster to use, and it’s perfect every time.
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@JTO i think you are on the money about creating a little bit of space between the diff and the snubber. I noticed less noise in the cabin. Details are in this thread.
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I shaved mine down to have a small gap. the total length of the snub bushing was ~29mm, if you were doing it yourself you might be able to leave the length longer, say ~31mm. I noticed less noise from the rear end at highway speeds, 65-75mph. I did not notice any clunking sounds yet, but if i need to reduce the gap, i think fitting a rubber bushing between the poly mount and the metal would be the way to go. I tried cutting it down to ~36mm length and 32mm length and it was still a squish fit. It was easy to remove the bushing from the front of the diff, just had to loosen the front diff mount and lower it on a jack. You might have to pull down on the diff to fully get it out.
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ugh i used the inner hatch seal on this mine, its an interesting fit. I used 3m weather stripping glue inside the channel, then used metal laundry clamps to hold it to the body. I worked in sections, top, sides, then bottom. Get the big tube of the glue form the store and lather it up. ESPECIALLY near the hatch hinges. Then send me the glue that you did not use, I need to add more in that area its lifting up. Fax works for me.
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I feel like the 8.8 is a great package to go with if you got into the game late (like me) and can’t find a r180/r200. Honestly it’s slim pickings out now days (at least it feels that way). From that thread people are doing 900HP builds?, holy moly. That’s FAST. It’s seems hard to find a r180/200 that is an LSD, has the ratio that would work, does not need a rebuild, and is relatively affordable. i can’t think of a safe way to lift the car and have the drive train engaged in order to film or visually see what’s going on under the car. Maybe you can shove and old camera or a go-pro down there to see what’s going on?
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@AK260 Do you remember the total length removed? From the other thread it was recommended to be 3/4” that’s ~19mm for you blokes abroad.
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@madkaw do your doors still have that rubber that’s supposed to be on the the cam that latches to the body? it might be unrelated to the issue you have at hand, but I wonder if that is also preventing it from closing with enough force to compress the material down. just for a note if you have to change the seal, I used: 1120A333 Water- & Weather-Rst Rubber Push-on Seal with Bulb on Side, Hollow, for 3/16" Edge, 5/8" High, 25 ft. Length from MCMaster-Karr.
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@AK260 oh interesting I should have came back and updated this thread. I need to find the source of the vibration at highway speeds, no more thumping. And thrashing it’s just loud. Maybe I should trim the bushing on my RTmount more. I literally just wrote a comment in the Old RT mount thread. taking about this, you’re saying there is a 1mm space between the top mount and the diff?
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Madkaw do you have to slam the door at all to get it shut?
