heyitsrama

Got first dose of Moderna yesterday, had a headache most of the day. My pops was saying if you go to Safeway/CVS/Walgreens before they stop doing injections for the day they usually let anyone get a vaccine, no appointment needed. That’s how he was able to get his. I was under the impression that the blood clots that were seen with J&J effected women only, similar to the effects of hormonal birth-control. My girlfriend ended up getting a J&J shot the day before the media broke the story, she’s been doing ok. She also tagged along with someone who had an appointment at the end of the day and was able to get it. oh ya I saw this super cool truck on the way to the appointment. I like the bed cover, looks like an old military vehicle. Oh beer! If you see this try it: might have to go to a wine store or a liqueur store, it’s an April only thing. I know it says ~11.7 alc/Vol but it’s butter smooth.

IIRC they go in the trash... don’t tell the EPA that. Tell them to go bother those people that roll coal.

SoCal? Maybe @SoCalJim has advise. A lot of us like to tinker on our cars. Personally I have trust issues with people working on my stuff.

@siteunseen is that implying that the fan is “dead” for the first 30-60 seconds? No spinning? my fan is always on, even when I first start the motor, can’t make it stop. I thought it was a little weird that it does that, the car takes like 5-6 min to warm up to where I can drive it.

@AK260 @Racer X this has been a topic in computing for a while see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master/slave_(technology) We stopped using ‘master’ to denote our ‘development’ software. We use ‘develop’ now to indicate that it’s the primary branch. We also stopped using blacklist/whitelist. Instead we use inclusion-list, exclusion-list. Which is more straightforward and explicit in the name. I personally use primary/secondary to denote the hierarchy of coupled devices. ah yes clutches, I have a thread here for part references for the setup that AK is talking about, I’m still buttoning up the car, so I don’t know how it feels.

Oh ya. I’d thought I’d share how the car looks on stands.... >.>

Got it all mated together today, transmission is reinstalled, i need to drop the fuel tank and replace the fill hose before putting it all back together..... I got the gearbox to slip into place, it went by really smooth, took 30 min,. girlfriend wants to go wine tasting tomorrow.... so i guess it’s going to have to get done in the morning 🙂 @S30Driver I’ll have to remember those for the next time I drop the gearbox 😛

@Awk34 can you post pictures of the throttle shaft? Part number 13 and 14 in this diagram.

@Trimpe.bob@gmail.com did they paint/coat the booster for you? 👀

Replaced the leaking seals and mated the tail housing back to the gearbox. (Used permatex ultra grey, ran outta Hondabond 😞 ) Does the 240mm pressure plate use 9 bolts to bolt to the flywheel? I was inspecting the parts today realized that i might be mising some hardware. I took 6 bolts off the 225mm pressure plate..... the OEM part number is 30223-E4100 but it looks like a regular bolt, not like the flywheel bolts..... Courtesy has the... $6 BUCKS! 😞 Might be better to go to fastinal in this case... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch -- Edit: Bench fit the fidanza flywheel to the clutch, looks like everything will fit. Only 6 bolts will align from the pressure plate to the flywheel, the 3 included dowels line up accordingly.

You upgrading brake lines or the master cylinder/prop valve?

The comment about getting the float adjust correctly was in comment to the sync tool showing too much fuel. Now that the tool can be used the level can be confirmed. What needles are being used in the carb? SM?

Never realized how tight a fit cross flow s6 can be.... +1 for the v8 for me 😛

Can you confirmed there is no debris that is holding the float open? There are two in line filters within the banjo fittings on the float chamber. Mine were full of crud, kept causing overflows on the rear carb. I would check that. The pump you have seems to have an OK range of PSI for SUs. 2000 idle is a lot, shoot for 800-900. You modified cam might want to make it go a bit higher. get your floats adjusted correctly. One you have the floats set then you can use the guide, otherwise the guide won’t work!

You won’t be able to pass emissions with that removed. You will have to remove it and replace it with another. In order to remove it it might be easier to take off the intake manifold to fit a larger wrench on the bottom of it (or a blapper) and remove it that way. Save the hardware because I’m not sure about replacement parts. Might have to make something up unless the tubes are available.

What’s so special about those ones? Datsun competition?

I’ve pulled the diamond vinyl off and reapplied it, I used 3m spray adhesive to get it to stick. If I was to redo it I might use a combo of spray adhesive, and contact cement around the edges to get a better hold. no idea with the headliner, I’m trying to get someone to come over and help me install it into the car. made you planning on respraying the inside too?

Got to get those gauges installed, maybe can get some time to tune this weekend... I'm waiting on parts in my gearbox thread anyway. 😆

@AK260 thank you! It seems like exedy is incrementing the part numbers slowly, some people refer to the 240mm clutch as a 06029 a few years ago, I wonder if its just an internal change, and the specification for the clutch is the same. Got the part order in today, hopefully can get parts in by early next week. I went with the 240mm 06030 from rockauto.

Does your gearbox not have a reverse check sleeve? I did this last night, you can extend the striker rod which allows you to support it with some wood jenga blocks, then use a not-a-punch and a sledge hammer to beat on the dowel with a sacrificial nut on the end of it.

Is there a different 240mm clutch for 2+2 compared to a 280ZX-T? Rock auto shows 06030 as the 240mm option: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209394,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993 RockAuto Shows 06031 as the 240mm option for a ZX-T https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209406,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993 Exedy shows a different part number between them both, and 06031 for the 300ZX. @AK260 I saw in a thread you used a 240mm clutch, do you have a part number? Interestingly the OEM clutch collar is the same. `30501-K0404` between the 2+2 L28E and the L28ET https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1983-nissan-280zx/power_train/clutch_cover_disc_release_parts.html?filter=(1=2S;2=L28ET;3=J) Im leaning toward the 06032, rather follow the exedy guide. The Fidanza flywheel is so light, grandma brought it in from the delivery gal. EDIT: Found this by @zKars 06032 listed for T5 gearbox, 06030 for Nissan gearbox....

Got the striker rod out, how to people generally approach the expansion plugs on the back? Do you just beat out the dimples that hold the cap? I stopped to check on part availability. The striker lever was fun, had to use the big mallet and the not-a-punch to punch out the lock pin. if you put the tail end on a 4x4 then stack some wood for the front of the striking rod you can tap out the pin. I found a random nut to sacrifice to save the threads. for the most part the bears and gears look pretty healthy, I don’t see major chips and the bearings run smooth. Good signs. the striker rod has some play in the strike guide, I can see like maybe 1mm of play in the shaft, it might be normal as I don’t see a bushing used between them the only thing that really seems to be between them is the oil seal, which we know is a problem due to the leak.

I would def go with some RTV there. I don’t imagine much oil getting stuck there, certainly some gets stuck there as it drops back into the sump.

wow @Patcon you are 100% correct, that's how I mated it together when i installed it last time. My excuse is that I work on a slanted driveway alone. I'll make sure to install it properly this time.

I pulled the clutch out today, i noticed this on what looks like is the brass crank bearing. I dont see any marking on the shaft of the gearbox, I checked for endplay of the driveshaft and i did not notice anything. I was going to use the 1983 FSM to help guide me tear the gearbox down. http://xenonzcar.com/s130/FSM/1983/MT.php Being that this is a close-ratio gearbox I would think it would be the applicable manual to use. Are there any known problems/incorrect directions with the service manual?