heyitsrama

Some people can be picky about their cars... But the car is already resprayed... if I was going to be picky thats where I would start. You make a fair point about filling the 6 holes you'll drill for a spoiler... and can probably figure out something for the shifter if you dont want to cut the trans tunnel. The wiring for the L28ET would have to be on a standalone, and not butcher into the OEM harness, I dont think that would be too difficult to do, you might need to make ONE hole for the wiring to get outside. I remember a 72-73 modifed Z for like mid $30's on Bring A Wallet.... Blue colored? Which BRE spoiler you thinking about, I have a NIB https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020b06&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts that I never used. @grannyknot That car looks fit.

In the past I’ve gotten a wrench on, then shoved a screw driver between the flange that the ujoint connects to in order to apply torque to remove the nut. Might help you out.

Such a strange size, can you fit an adjustable wrench in there? Figure just get them out and replace them with a new set. I took the driveshaft out today, was super pissed off that the sway bar gets in the way of accessing the hardware.

@davewormald I think rock auto has a rebate on KYBs if you order the whole set.

Gearbox is almost pulled, just waiting on a hand to help pull it out. Took almost 3 hours, but I spent time removing the half-shafts... I remembered why I did not take out the ujoints, it feels like there is no play in the joint, but perhaps by hand is one thing, but load of the motor is another. @Dave WM @EuroDat i don’t feel side to side movement of the driveshaft in the tail end of the gearbox, but I’ll inspect again when it’s out of the car, anything else to inspect? the OEM rear sway bar location for an early 260z is not good, the damn thing is always in the way of the 12mm bolts for the driveshaft. I wonder if there are relocation kits to move it to the back of the support brackets that hold the rear of the control arms.

For non-aggressive driving that sounds like a great combination. Bumping up the tire is a good option too, the stock shocks + KYB sit sorta high, it looks really off when you are on 15" wheels. What other options are there for the shocks? It seems like its KYB/Koni or coilovers.

@EuroDat alright well I guess it has to be done, anything else that is a "while your down there" fix? Ive noticed that the gearbox will pop out of 5th at times, i wonder if its caused by an imbalance, or by something warn in the gearbox. Also at times I cant get it into reverse, I have to put it into 3rd clutch out a bit, then it will slip into reverse..... It looks like some people suggest a Fidanza Flywheel (#143281) paired with an Exedy Clutch (#6009 might be the 225mm not 240mm have to check)

I’m kinda looking for an excuse to pull the gearbox and replace the flywheel, clutch, and all the ujoints while down there. The clutch and flywheel are really unknown, I threw it all together from parts of another Z I had. Last time I was down in the shifter I did the brass bushing modification to the shifter, and I like the way it feels, I’m going to switch to OEM ones on another shifter I have, and replace the plastic cup end. What’s really bugging me is this leak, and if I have to pull the gearbox out to remove the selector, I should start looking at getting a flywheel lightened up. It looks like TEP offers lightened flywheels, I wonder if Rebello offers them, their semi-local. Edit* spoke to someone a Rebello over the phone, they suggested to just order a new one online that is pre-balanced and lightened... The hunt begins I guess.

Went to install the OEM shifter bushings and found something! It looks like there is a leak at the shifter. I think I need new o-rings here. Maybe this is contributing due to the grease being washed away. No drip spots where I park though... Do I have to drop the gearbox to service this? Or can it be done from up top?

For my suspension I used 7776 flat black rattle can, it’s held up pretty well to me running off track and getting loads of mud and dirt on the under side. I’ve also done Por15 rust encapsulation, then a topcoat with spray cans. If you take the time you can get a fairly nice outcome. Just make sure you go through all the steps, acetone washing, primer ( I do 2 layers) , then paint (I do 2-3 layers). The key is to have very clean prep, you always start out dirty and rusty, and clean with each step all the way to installation. But after that getting down under the car is not too bad, plus it’s shiny 🙂 do you have a 1/2” air impact gun? That will take the bolts out, might be hard to do with hand because it wants to spin. if you don’t have an air impact imma take the time to say consider getting an electrical one from Milwaukee tools, it’s a beast of a tool, makes working on cars not too bad.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPZ55Y?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp#customerReviews Alright $12 bucks for 28" of 3in ducting. This was the cheapest that I could find online. Might have some extra to use on the airbox.... The mounting solution is still up in the air.

I’ve seen those; $200 is so expensive for that piece. 😔 i saw this online, but the mounting still has me a bit confused, it looks like a 3” duct can be used. I should have gotten into the rock collection hobby instead.

@AZDatsun Pretty close! But there are these accordion style “fresh air ducts” that push air from the front through the body cavity and into the cabin. They are almost in the same spot as that intake.

I was wondering if there are some alternatives to the OEM air ducting that goes from the radiator section into the body cavity. I was thinking that a 3” brake duct tube might work, it would just be a matter of figuring out some mounts for the chassis. anyone do this before? Or have a set for sale 😐. maybe I’ll have to listen to captain’ and start working with composites.

Oh wow, courtesy nissan does not show a part for `11012-N4200`. ~$500 thats super expensive. I did not realize you could re-sleeve the block it did not look that way when I had my engine apart, maybe i misses it. If is possible i wonder why people say that they have to go to a bunch of blocks till they can find one that has the thickness to support an overbore to 3.2L+ off a L28, why not just sleeve the block out the gate to have enough thickness.

Might cause a fight in this thread but here it goes: I thought the motor would be broken-in within the 175 miles that you drove, that's a lot of movement for the engine components. > that new cam and the valve train needs to be covered with oil always while it sits. Why? It's not moving, is there something special about the finish of the material that requires oil? If the initial break in process is complete (first 50-100 miles?) then the oil should be replaced as the etching of the piston ring into the cylinder wall should be done, and we want all the metal out of the oil. Next service would be at ~1k... But it seems like it would be past the point where it matters... I'm probably wrong though, so I would like to be "educated" on the matter. PS: make a paint thread with lots of photos plz.

@Geoff's 240z can you get a video? Im still inspecting this issue, I ordered some OEM bushings for the shifter, i hope its not the brass bushing that I made that is causing the issue. Currently the rattle is mostly gone, but the gearbox pops out of 5th if i take it over 95mph. I don't like that at all, can be dangerous. I also plan on replacing the u-joints, which i should probably start today >.> Also wheel bearings.. **** i should have done this when i had it all apart.

That would make sense the thread is kinda beefy, m10.

@Pilgrim yeah i read that part, but on my first day of welding class we took a safety class, the professor said, 'Dont weld gas tanks, no matter how long its been sitting, there's gonna be residual gas on the surfaces'.

Alright well I guess it’s a mystery if @kats does not know. 😳 I 3D printed a plate yesterday, need to sort out the rest of the camera. Should be nice for track video.

I’ve read multiple people say shove a load of dry ice into allow the carbon dioxide to displace any fumes inside the tank. This was after washing out the inside of the tank with water for a long time, and using some thing to evaporate moisture inside. I want to add baffles in mine, too much sloshing on the track, the pickup sometimes ends up without fuel and ruins the run.

Does anyone know what these captive nuts are for? looks like a nice spot to mount a camera.

@AK260 how’d you make the plenum? cc: @Captain Obvious

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/65063-what-size-bolts-do-i-need-for-the-240z-transmission-mount/ https://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-mount-bolts-spec-t237468.html 10mmx1.25mmx30mm

I run direzzas on street and track. I wish the on track performance was better. The street driving is great the z102s last a long time, I feel very confident in the tires ability to grip as well for our local mountain drives. I want to try the advan tires but I don’t go through tires enough. Maybe if I had a track set of wheels I would get potenzas, but the price/wear is not there for me as a government employee 😂😂😂. if money ain’t a thing. I’d get the potenzas their nice tires. I have OEM turbo wheels 15” I actually don’t like how thin they are, I think my next set will be 16”, larger tire selection and it fills the arch better.