heyitsrama

Wire wheel and keep it bare sounds good to me, the flakes are concerning. if you have some old aircraft stripper that will make the work easier, I’ve used brake fluid in a pinch..

Funny I went back to pull it out and as I was walking in some dude had the motor on a gantry. Well isn’t that nice.

Ohhhh! yeah I think both these maxima were on Craigslist for a while, but they ended up in a yard on Monday, one a 78 l24 and the other the 82 ld28. I wanted to grab the crank to potentially use for a motor build. But it’s going to take a while for just 1 dude to pull a motor in a wet junkyard (it’s been raining for a week). If I had another set of hands to help it would be fast. It looks like people use the blocks to make l35 motors which require custom billet internals aka mucho pesos... but for a street/light track use, the crank would be a nice to have. Apparently there are some forum postings from the web saying that Nissan was selling these cranks new 5-8 years ago? If it was in my driveway I would not have a problem with pulling it out, but I don’t have any space for more cars.... the rear view mirror I got has a really nice glass, I wonder if I can swap over the glass into the black housing on my Z, or if I should just paint the grey housing, the plastic on the mirror housing really starts to flake out, 40 years of UV light I guess.

Why? Why I did not pull it out? Or why the demo saw is going to help?

What a strange motor, a lot of work for one dude. Not much space to pull it out from the front, removing the motor would be the easiest approach. At that point might as well keep the block too. too many projects, going to have to throw the towel in on this one for now... got a nice rear view mirror though. with a demolition saw this would be fast...

$^!# I forgot how heavy the cranks are, I’d be worried about smacking it on something on the way out. Hopefully maximas don’t have annoying subframes.

Do you guys think it’s possible to drop the crank out of a car without removing the motor? I would assume the automatic gearbox would need to be removed, not sure if there is anything special about its removal; just drop the driveshaft, bell housing bolts and anything that is connected to the crank. It seems like the only questionable thing is if the crank can clear the subframe..... seems a bit risky tho. anyone ever do something this dumb? 😇 remind me of any tools I might need to bring besides the whole garage.

I remember hearing some people say that whitehead was taking a while to respond to calls/emails at the moment. I’ve bought ball joints in the past from them, no complaints here. But I would try to call them and see what a turnaround time looks like. nice car BTW.

So whats the current status of the car? what have you done? what is the current issue? The more specific the better 🙂

http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Page 17 in the `EF Engine Fuel` section of the factory service manual talks about how the oil-pressure sender interacts in the fuel pump system. Might be a problem with the oil-pressure sender... I assume there is oil in the system?

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/engine-mount-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx?variant=675559945 $69 from jdm-car-parts

I really like Dunlop Direzza Dz102 for a street tire, good wear, and still have loads of grip. Just street it would say the Dunlop’s, the wear rating looks betterget more bang for buck. if money is not important than A052 look nice :)

yeah i think a new cap/rotor should get you on the road for now.

Is it just me or are the points missing from the dizzy? Is that a magnetic-pickup upgrade? These cap/rotors should work https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,ignition,distributor+rotor,7136 As the distributor looks like a points type. Here is a manual for the XR3000 https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700 instructions.pdf That crane box basically senses the magnetic-pickup on the distributor, and tells the coil when to send the spark through. Its considered to be an upgrade to the points system.

Good luck! EFI can be tricky! Be methodical and write things down!

Hey @silentbug I think there are already people trying to help you out in the thread you posted earlier; Try to keep your issues contained to one thread so people can see what you have tried, its easier to get help that way. Often when people start opening up multiple threads, and DONT follow the instructions/discussions that are being held within the topics they start, the thread dies out and people stop posting help. I think ZedHead and Steve were walking you through some stuff to test out, I would listen to what they have to say, they are very well informed individuals and have helped lots of people get their 280z fuel injection system figured out, they are not wasting your time and their time trying to help. You will need a multimeter to figure out the EFI system, and YES its possible that the water temp sensor is messing with the system. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=multimeter&qid=1611644234&sr=8-5

Not sure how much a regular fire extinguisher is, but this one looks really light weight, but is priced at 79 bucks :0 https://elementfire.com/collections/allproducts/products/element-e50

Yeah i saw the 500 responses yesterday when trying to login, looks like everything is hit now. Should really take an archive of that website, would hate to loose all the modification information that's on there if something fails, ie. harddrive goes kaput.

The hardlines? IIRC they are were not painted, I think they should be yellow plated, painted would look wrong. To me it would showcase too much haste in painting the chassis. The painters on our house did that, the window trim on the patio is not painted white, it looks wrong everyone I see it.

Using some flexible bondo type material on the front. Then add some SEM texture spray and another coat of black. Just to hide the cracks.

@zdude1967 I had a 260z tachometer in my 260z that would also do that to me, it would often wave, or bounce around depending on the electrical load. Or the engine RPM I had a 280z tach o that I finally got working and it’s a champ. The internal circuit board on the 260z seems to be more prone to this, than the 280z circuit. I have a thread on this a while back when I was trying to figure out why nothing was working properly (spoiler the transistor ignition unit was not OEM and was not keeping a clean circuit to the tach) You might want to find a 280z taco if your waving issue persists. Or at least tape a paper hand on the needle so you can wave back to it when using the blinkers. 😛

Can we get some night shots?

You know with the knowledge here could probably get that viper fixed.

Yeah certainly looks lower one side, maybe it loosened itself up. Try adjusting the lower side up to match the high side. ive seen people use tape under the collar to keep it clean, not sure if it helps keeping it from undoing itself.

https://www.zcarblog.com/2020/12/04/performance/ready-to-rally-kens-1971-datsun-240z.html Is that the red one you are talking about? 👀 Can you get some pictures of the suspension setup on the car and of how the car sits right now? Where was the ground clearance measured from? So as far as the spring rates go based on TechnoToyTunings spring rates they sell for their kits are 3KG(Front)/4KG(Rear) for street use. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/four-corner-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-240z Based on https://www.redline360.com/garage/spring-rate-conversion-chart-easily-convert-kgmm-to-lbsin (edit)Take this with a pinch of salt, i might be wrong -> It seems like the spring setup you have is 200/56 ~= 3.571 (front) and 350/56 ~= 6.35KG (rear)