heyitsrama

Some pictures would help out in this case, I think some of the float bowls do not have drain plugs. What does yours look like? On the dome of the SU carb are there 3 screws or 4 screws holding the dome down?

Hey some of us fill the cab with smoke anyway. 👀 jk

Was driving the car today, noticed that both the voltage meter and the tach wave a little bit at you when idling. The volt meter more so. I’ll try to get a video.

The carter 4070 in my car heard me talking trash about it and decided to blow a fuse on the way home from getting coffee. No idea why it would do that, first time its happened. Luckily i found a fuse buried under the carpets, good think i dont clean eh? In all seriousness it was SO much more quiet in the cabin after the pump died, almost makes me want to get a replace it. @Racer X what rubber isolaters? the small ones that come with it, happen to have a picture of the setup?

I ordered one of these the blemish (a small welded tab) does not really make a difference to me, but $100 is $100. I like the way they look, should fit your 2.5" as well.

I have done extensive rewirings of an early 260z. I did remove the interlock unit, and the emergency switch. IIRC For the starter I used the yellow wire as a trigger on a relay for the solenoid, i was having a starting issue that never came back after I did that modification. I wired in a separate relay for the fuel pump (no mechanical pump). Which is turned on by a wire that comes off the ignition key circuit (green/white?) I hate the wiring in the car, it works but it’s ugly, at some point I’ll pull it out and redo it all again.

I think some ignition timing lights have RPM functionality... my old snap-on one does not. @AK260 well when you open it up maybe you can check out that green/real varistor, take some pictures to continue this thread 🙂

I found this one online. But I would still refer to a manual https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=280z/1977/77_datsun_280z.pdf Watch the video, read the manual, its a fairly simple motor to work on. Ask lots of questions. To me the cost is one thing to consider, but I dont like people working on my cars, i find that people cut corners where I dont, i really dont like going back and fixing peoples mistakes. If you can find a shop in SC that has done this type of repair before then that would be great. IIRC the KA24DE motor off a 240sx has a similar fitment of the headgasket around the headgasket on the front cover, i was able to use Hondabond on it to seal it up, never leaked. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-Hondabond-08717-1194-applications/dp/B00STVCWYY/ref=bmx_2/134-8296344-1317705?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00STVCWYY&pd_rd_r=d926952c-de54-4cf3-a89b-e8db9faaa134&pd_rd_w=EkDA4&pd_rd_wg=0GAxu&pf_rd_p=c5e1cf4b-c006-4b7a-bb44-797de0814d9a&pf_rd_r=FTC761W54E2DMSPJZQSA&psc=1&refRID=FTC761W54E2DMSPJZQSA

I did not use anything, just the clamp that comes with the filler tube, make sure there are no cracks in the filler tube though!

I would avoid the `carter p4070` model in particular if you like to not hear the pump. I think anything in a similar style will give you the same problem I have, which is LOADS of cabin noise, i cant figure out how to dampen it. However I've used it since i got the car, never had an issue with it, so its reliability is nice. I like the Facet one, I would opt for that for easier install with the OEM bracket for the electronic fuel pumps. Iif that is also noisy then something like the Rx7 one you posted should work, my buddy uses one similar in his classic mini and his buyeye sprite, I never notice the noise they make.

Yeah! i figured i had it all apart, and I had some of the correct caps in my parts drawer, the original one seemed like it was working correctly. The varistor is tucked nice and cozy inside the tach in the dash now. I don't see it used on the 260z tacho that is on the bench. But I still need to get the the 280z tacho tuned with a known good RPM source as i messed with the potentiometer. I asked the neighbor if he had a wave form generator, he did not but he was able to make something with an arduino and a potentiometer, we tested 0-300hz @ 5v and the tacho did not respond. I think it might have been an issue with the waveform that we used, i did not ask him which one it was, ill ask him when i see him. I dont have a 12v transformer that i can use to test it out, that might be another option. Are you using a 280z tacho with the GM HEI module? This thread says that a National LM2907 might be a good place to start. Here is a manual for that chipset https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2907-n.pdf Yeah super glad this thing is fixed now (thx to ZedHead..... again :p)

@Zed Head It was the ignition module, the one I was using was a generic e12-80 replacement, i put a OEM e12-80 that i pulled from the scrap yard a few years ago (good thing i kinda hoard stuff eh?) The tachometer works at low RPM now. Well at least this weekend was not a total loss, making slow progress. 🙂 What scares me is if thise12-80 shits the bed, i hear that some of them can fail, really dont wanna be stranded off the road, esp because i like to drive out into the mountains on occasion.

@crayZlair I'm scratching my head with this one, i cleaned the potentiometer out a bit and verified that it worked correctly, it appears that this is used to `tune` the tachometer to a signal. I attempted to test out the tachometer on different settings on the potentiometer, but it does not appear to make a different on the `low` RPM only on the high. I'm scratching my head on this one, what else can cause the tachometer to behave this way, I'll start looking around for other components, maybe @Zed Head is right in saying that there could be something with the ignition module that is related to this, but if so wouldn't the car run a bit funny? I have a spare e12-80 in my parts collection could be worth testing that out. When I tested the resistance for the tach-wire from the coil i also get the same Ohm rating on the ground of the car, i unplugged the coil harness it looks like the coil is grounded through the e12-80 module.

There is a slight bent at the end of the shaft that holds the needle, nothing that make its bind on the edges, but im trying to massage it back into place. On a side note what is this component between the white and black wires? If you put a small flat driver form the bottom you can rotate the silver plate on the topside. Edit, it seems like a potentiometer, the far left is the ground, the bottom one is the vcc, and the top right one is the output.

@Zed Head 2213ohm to from the tach to the coil. Ill double check the movement of the needle.

Here is what it looked like yesterday, I'm going to go check the resistance in the wire to the coil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ir33l7k_dCM&feature=youtu.be

Could there be a way to bench test the tach? It would be nice to be able to replicate the voltage trigger on at the bench to see if it has been fixed, rather than installing it multiple times.

the one on the right side of the last image is `Hitachi FA8028-6G2` the one on the middle is `Hitachi FA8030--6H3` I should have prefaced with some more information about the ignition system. 280z tach, 26061-AJ5000-81 Distributor - E12-80 Coil - MSD Blaster (Bypassed Ballast Resistor) 260z Transistor ignition unit removed Last night i added a 2.2kOhm resistor to the wire that goes to from the tach to the coil, no change in the status, still dead from 0~1500. The wiring is similar to https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104933-1974-260z-with-e12-80-280zx-distributor-swap-wiring-with-tach-hook-up/

I think you are right, I did not put too much heat to the part but i saw that the ohms were going down as the heat was applied, currently the thermometer says 70*f inside the room, the meter was ~358ohms. A good section of the shielding has been removed from the component, hopefully it does not effect the reading too much. Let me know if you more another shot, It looks like the white wire that controls the arm on the tach is directly connected to it. @Captain Obvious I uploaded here https://imgur.com/a/09qUOaL I think the resolution might be higher. I put the old component back on the board.

I ended up replacing this with a random capacitor I had labeled 104M, the issue is still present there is no idle visible on the tach, it only moves after 1500 rpm. 😞

I pulled out the capacitor, when comparing the resistance of the capacitor against a known good (different ratings) the resistance slowly increases, while the small green/teal one is stuck at 420ohms. I think this might be the issue.

@Zed Head my girlfriend and I get in arguments about green/yellow/teal the time, maybe she’s right 😂😂😂. Yeah that’s the one, I poked it too hard and took the plastic off, it looks “ok” on the other side.

Im trying to chase down why this 280z tach does not work unless the RPMs are +2000. I found that there is this capacitor that has peeled away it’s shielding. Does anyone know how to identify them? It does not appear to have any significant marking on it. It’s the little teal one.

Howd you get the mount to stick while driving? Magnet? Surprisingly it was straight forward to weld the bung onto the exhaust, I really wanted to avoid the welds looking like complete 💩. After reading the instruction you don’t want to do what I did and install the o2 in a complete vertical position, it’s recommended to keep tilted to avoid it getting too hot (from the installation instructions that I read after installing). I’m not sure how problematic this is, I installed the o2 about an 2in after the two pipes meet. I got the ESP8266 broadcasting a wifi signal, next step is figuring out a way to have it output a data stream

Which microcontroller were you planning to use? I got a few ESP8266 that were intended for a different project. They have built-in wifi modules, perhaps they can be used like a relay to forward the data to a computer. After seeing this thread earlier in the week I ordered an AEM wideband AFM, as I had the exhaust off the car. looks like I need to mess with my floats a bit. 😬