heyitsrama

Leaks from the fitting? Can use Teflon tape, or permatex thread sealer and see if that helps.

I think my 260z is 304 as well, I painted the front driver fender / light scoops with a blend of paint from “automotivetouchup.com”. Personally while I do think the fender looks better than the primer that was on the car, it’s far from what the OEM paint was. Perhaps this is due to my lack of understanding of how to apply paint at the time, plus doing everything out of a spray paint can. @cgsheen1 I really like the way your paint has a depth to it, something that my resprayed sections are lacking. Forgive my lack of knowledge on the subject, but are you using multiple layers after the base coat has been applied? I only shot a a few layers of primer, then the base coat. I should tackle that driver side body, it’s starting to bother me more and more 😕 seeing that nice example makes me actually want to do it more! 😬

It is possible that the carbs need to have their float levels adjusted. Do you have an airflow meter to ensure the carbs are sycned up together? What do the spark plugs look like?

This product seems similar to seafoam, I used it on this old 240sx I had, it worked very well, I recall having a load of it flow into the system then turning off the hot motor to let it sit in the deposits. The idle was much better on the car. if you do it right before sundown you can avoid the fire dept. HA!

I usually get in that spot too, just staring at the car not knowing where to go. I even bought a whole other chassis and started working on that because it did not need AS much repair. (Probably was a good idea learned a lot) 60% of the time I just grab a tool and start doing something, and it gets the creativity flowing. How’s the hatch striker panel? the one above the tail lights.

Does it come in a 15”? ??

I really liked the ability of the finger (band) file in tight hard to reach sections, I have mixed variety of power tools, I pick up the HF 4.5" grinder more than the Makita one that I have, and I've yet to break a tool. One thing has changed with HF tools is their brushes are no longer replaceable, that i think will move me out to another brand. I've replaced the brushes several times in both the disk cutter and the metal chop saw. Dewalt is nice, I started using Milwaukee m18 and m12 tools, id like to keep the battery system the same (Milwaukee tools can adapt dewalt batteries to their body w/ and adapter) $120 seems like a lot for a band file ( id think that money would be nicely spent on another grinder so you dont have to change the wheels) Perhaps a garage sale might be a good spot to find a discounted one. Because your working with the car in the garage and have clearance under the car, i think you could get away with out having one. Its nice that someone makes the seat rail mounts, I had make the front one, it was pretty complex. Is the plan to remove the spotwelds? Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel is a nice beater, better than dads old craftsman flat. ?

I really like this one, I used it a lot when I was working on my hatch striker panel. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html Make sure to grab some good belts, I’m not sure about the quality difference between brands, some people say it makes a difference. If you have some spare coupons of scrap metal, try adjusting the wire speed to be faster, you might be able to get the weld to be flatter. (too fast and it’s going to blow through) Check this guy out: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1AiDqIHP5Po

I was trying to install a MSA replica BRE front lip (vented) and noticed that there is gap between the end of the spoiler and the bottom of the front radiator support. I think this might be how the replica molds are made, and I'm not sure. Based on this video it appears that an front spoiler from BRE will just about touch the lower radiator support. My early 260z was missing the lower valance from the car, I had acquired one for a 240z from a member on HybridZ and modified the mounting points to fit my 260z. I think its highly likely that I messed up the fitment of the valance on the car, is there supposed to be a gap between the valance and the lower radiator support to begin with? I just want to know if the issue is with my valance fitment, or a molding issue with the MSA BRE lips. If you have a BRE lip and can share a picture that would be great! ?

I would get some Kroil like Yarb recommended then try what captain obvious recommended. Personally Ive had more luck welding a nut onto the stud and using a impact to taking them out. The heat helps it break out. I also have this metric stud removal tool that I've used ..... but sometimes i just look for excuses to get the welder out.

It was a pretty interesting talk, esp the later half. Check it out!

JRE had Snowden on this week:

If you need an additional computer to route the traffic for step 3 consider a raspberry pi, it runs a free operating system. And is around $35-$55. Also it has very low energy consumption. https://pi-hole.net https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b/

I would recommend 1. Becoming a donating czcc member ( if you can afford it) 2. installing unlock origin extension on any browsers you use. https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock Consider step 1 or turn off ublock on czcc. Mikes operating costs are said to increase with this beefy server he’s upgrading to. 3. if you are technically inclined you can block advertising at the DNS (what resolves URLs into IP addresses) level by using pihole or adguard home. Here is the configuration I use at my place. https://github.com/amarjandu/neptunes-orbit in the couple weeks that I’ve used it it’s blocked ~30% of network traffic out. you don’t have to go all the way to step 3, I used ublock origin for almost a decade, and it works wonders. I think if you are on an android phone you can get it installed on that as well, I use an iphone, so I don’t get that option. if you need some help getting the DNS level blocking installed, or want more information reach out. ?

Slow progress over here @siteunseen half the battle was keeping water out of the car! HA. I have to make the wiper sub-harness as my car was missing everything in the engine bay..... but the way the relays are wired up in the diagrams throws me in for a loop. It will get a respray.... eventually ?

I ended up grabbing a sunshade from MSA this weekend. It fits really well in the window. part number is UV10110SV made by cover craft. excuse the dust it’s all from the wildfires.

I run the 2fuse+voltage/amp setup in my Early 260Z, I've had no complaints about it so far. If I was in your place I would try to get new fusible links (and maybe some spares). How does the alternator output wire look? I think the last time I blew a fuse, I also melted/broke off the ring connector on the white/red cable.. Need to fix that on my car still its been almost 2 years.

You might be able to get away with getting braided hose from Jbugs. I’ve used their hoses for the valve cover vent hose. Unless you are going for the TRUE OEM look.

I had this issue on my rebuild, although i confirmed oil was getting it the head, and the oil pump was primed. After that I just ran it, and the oil gauge showed pressure. I’m not sure is there is an official way to do it. ?

Was is the lack of a v10 that hurt the sales? I would think at ~$155k there is competition for other cars that can out perform it. I was not around during the 70's, but looking at cars around that era it seems that the Z helped bring an era of cheap/fun/reliable sports cars. They may have a chance to do that again with an electric platform. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/is-this-the-rear-of-the-next-generation-nissan-z/#more-81181 This rendering makes the car look kinda flat..

I really hope they put an option with an electric motor. I would think Nissan has the tech available from LEAF. I dont want to choose between a `model 3` and a `400z`, i would think the price point would be around the same, mid-30k.

That might work, there is also a section of the rubber that acts like a seal to the elements, I think if you get it thick enough you can achieve this function. Edit: I used 1120A333 25ft To do the door seals, I ordered this from McMaster-Carr

I’m not sure what you mean by glue the end parts. But I ordered the precision ones from MSA they needed some massaging to install, but seal nicely. better than the cheap 10 dollar ones they have, I’m not sure how those really sealed anything.

View Advert Solenoids / ECU / Interlock unit A11-601-000 (L28) - 40 shipped E12-12A -15 shipped E12-05 - 15 shipped x2 (if you ask nicely I’ll send you both for the price of 1) L28 solenoids - 15 shipped. Interlock Unit 260z (have the in dash button too) - 15 shipped ammeter 260z - 15 shipped all prices are OBO, feel free to ask for more pictures. shipping shall be USPS. ?? Advertiser heyitsrama Date 08/28/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts for Sale