heyitsrama

There’s some reproduction ones from Asia that a lot of forum members have had a good experience with. The search function is your friend here ?

I attempted to create a patch on the top panel, and i was not entirely happy with the way the panel formed. To save time (and my eyes every time i look at it) I think ill order a replacement panel. @grannyknot do you have any more pictures of that repair? I cant see the top edge of where the surfaces mate. Jumped down the rabbit hole that is painting the rear taillight panels. a lot of options.

Oh I’ll definitely add those to the car. Was there any use of glue on the underside of the panel by Nissan? I can see why someone would want to use body glue here, it would prohibit water from entering between the top cover and the body underneath. did you use any kind of paint between the 2 layers to prevent this?

@grannyknot yeah it gets a little difficult to control the depth of the drilling, i dont think it will be a problem to fill in the holes that i ended up with. the mid section is not too bad... I've been debating to order the top section. If i can save the money then why not? But then again fab time adds up. top section is removed, going to head over to the shed and try to make a section that i can replace, worst case tomorrow ill order all the stuff. the right side is going to be a bit annoying to get through. I think someone has been here before on the car, i saw some questionable welds on the car. I dont have a spot welder, would drilling out a hole on a new panel, then welding them to the bottom section be appropriate? i see the 3m body glue that some people use, i think i have some left over form the floor pan i did, i think that could also be used.....

It looks like there are some spot welds above the plate holder, and maybe inside the car. I’ll have to look on the inside to see if there are any more, I would assume there are.

It looks like we might have a couple weeks without rain here in California, i think ill be able to tackle the rear hatch issues as well. I don't see a Sportage around me thats younger that 2000. but I'll keep my eyes open for them. I was looking at this thread. I saw that the lower panel for my car is also rusted out, so ill have to go in and repair all of that, are there spot welds that I can access for the top? I want to try to save the top panel if i can. I was able to hammer form a edge to this scap sheet i had when i was forming the floor pans.

The outter seal is basically non-existent, while the inner is torn in certain sections. Paper test instant failed ?. Perhaps I’ll take a look at taking the deck lid under the knife sooner to get the these all sorted out. lady time I checked the Kia Sportage seal was kinda pricy, maybe the McMaster seals that are used as door seals would also fit in this area? I priced out the seals last night, ~$250 ???. at least I don’t have multiple projects.

I guess to add to this, are there seal recommendations for the hatch outer//inner? Something out of the McMaster Carr catalog? Or off another vehicle?

I've been slowly getting my 260z to a condition where i can just hop in and start driving it around. One thing that has been bothering me since i got the car is the amount of noise that enters the cabin. While i understand that these are not modern cars I've been trying to do what i can to reduce road noise. So far I've done, Sound deadening on : Doors, Boot, firewall(interior), Transmission tunnel, floor pans, under seat (drivers side), inside quarter panels, inside spare tub. Weather stripping: doors + window felt. Interior: Extra padding under the mats. I feel like the majority of the sounds that come from the car are wind noises. (esp at freeway speeds) I think that the quarter window seals are shot, and that i should order the inner and outer seals, Is the seal linked below applicable to the early 260z chassis? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1017-1 I do also think that the rear hatch gaskets need to be replaced (all of them they leak water), but thats going to need metal work. probably this summer. Are these cars known to have wind noise? I've never been in a "completed" 240z so I have nothing to compare my car to.

I usually see people on this site using SU or have EFI setups, maybe someone who runs a 32/36 can offer some advise...... in the mean time i found https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/weber-carb-tuning-and-technical-info/jetting-and-tuning-downdraft-and-sidedraft-weber-carbs.html

If you really want to go DIY I used a kit like this to rekey all the doors and glove box to a clean ignition key. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Car-Keying-Kit-A-00-103-Datsun-Toyota-Subaru-Arrow-LUV-Opel-Wafer-Lock/223970367492?hash=item3425ac9804:g:8VQAAOSw6VlejJue the doors are a pain in the butt because of how the cover is wrapped over the edge. edit i wrote a DIY some years ago, https://www.specterbyte.com/lockcylinderrepair/

Ak260, your car looks great, love the colour.

damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn it, i dont wanna open the system up and fix it. i wonder if it causes suspension travel issues in the rear.

total w/ tax: $125.88 without powdercoating

dont go installing it on the car without painting it, its gonna look like $^!# after it starts to rust! Grab flat-black (at least thats what i like) 7776 rustolium and some primer. 2 coats primer, 3 coats of paint. Might even want to grab something that's resistant to brake fluid, (caliper paint?) powder coating is not.

I updated to SS lines from Apex Brakes (Canadian company IIRC) I think i put the smaller length ones in the rear, i figured it would not need the movement as the fronts do. Perhaps someone else can give you a more concrete answer.

Glad to help, just wanna keep the helpful attitude going on this forum! Lots of friendly people here ?

That's a fair point, i was talking about this with my uncle yesterday and he was saying that same thing, that you could go into an auto-parts store and have the people there turn the rotors in the shop for you. Makes sense if you are dishing out the money for higher quality rotors.

it seemed to be a bit more coarse than a machine screw would be. I stand corrected, based on https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/machine-screws/machine-screw-diameter.aspx I was using a #8 screw. overall height is 0.6" diameter is 0.165" length is ~0.5"

I gotta dumb question, why turn rotors? they seem pretty affordable to just get new ones.....

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh how strange i literally just did this a couple hours ago. There is a m3 bolt near the steering wheel, and an m4 bolt at the underside of the key tumbler. I think i used some small #6 screws for the 4 other ones that go into the plastic. I did not torque them down all the way, i was scared it was going to ruin the plastic on the other side. For the m3/m4 i had to use a washer to get it to hold to the plastic. I should have done it months ago, it looks great. I used some zip ties to hold the wires to the steering wheel column.

Im not sure if those are available as replacement parts, but see http://ace240z.com/window rollers.html

There are differences between my early 260z, and my late 240z at the front radiator support, the middle valance mounting tabs are different between them. There is also appears to be a difference around the end of the frame rails near the front radiator support.

Grab some of this while you're down there https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Can out of state people go too or? Anyone from The west coast wanna go? ?