heyitsrama

You should take the cable out of the car, hang it up on a ladder or something, and shoot the lube into the black sleeve. Let gravity do all the work.

Get that choke cable bracket. Its up there in the "must haves".... That and a headlight relay.

I’m in the SF bay, I can’t run it without a choke in the morning/night…. Diff climate tho, it gets into mid 40s. It’s simple/maintenance free enough to keep around…. I don’t like sitting in front of the car holding the throttle open to idle it. I usually turn it on and clean the windows….

I feel like this brake set has been on CL for months, maybe the owner will ship... 👀 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/7563156495.html https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/7556712122.html

@SteveJ I've been meaning to make my way down to that shop, I want to checkout the KW Coilovers that they offer before jumping down the path of making my own. I'll email Rob, see if I can bother him sometime. Early 260z man, if the electrical system does not mess with you, another one of the 1-off designs will....

https://www.yelp.com/biz/williams-autobody-and-paint-san-mateo These guys do a lot of the body work for the "historic racecars" that are around during Monterey Car Week, they might have what you need... if you get it do update us 😉

View Advert 260z Grill Realized that the early 260z I have is running a 240z grill that does not mount up correctly... Looking for an early 260z grill.... Note the position of the middle mounting tabs. Advertiser heyitsrama Date 12/03/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1974 Model 260z  

There is a nut on the back side, you'll crack them if you try to remove them without take off the bracket.

yeah what Racer X said, that looks like a clean car, can you post some interior pics?

Could be a leak in the manifold.

You don't need to spend big pesos on a new dome switch... 💸

Pull that choke cable out, shoot oil into it and hang it down to let the internals get lubed, then follow @siteunseen's advice of reinforcing the choke lever mech.... It's an old car, i find myself warming it up at least until the temp gauge starts to move... Once its warm it clicks on the first try.

I have a feeling that the manufacturer cant get plug and play connectors that the late 260z/280z use. I was never able to find any when i was making a engine harness. I resorted to using old motorcycle connectors (the same ones that 240z use) from vintageconnections.com I think if you modify the harness, or splice enough connectors off a 280z in the junkyard to make your own harness it would work... There is a guide https://www.zcar.com/threads/turn-signal-side-lamp-flashing.77902/

I'm in the same boat. trying to decide between cutting up a set i hoarded a couple of months ago, going KW or BC racing. I think the KW's are adjustable on the compression and rebound, not sure what they would run tho.... (probably more than the car) BC are nice because you can set the height independently of the preload on on the spring, not sure if Megan lets you...

Looks very clean 🙂

I had a weird tick like that once, i mean i still got weird ticks, but that one is gone....

Those look like they would clean up very well. With plated hardware and a vapor hone. 🙈 I think there are rubber isolators between the carb and the manifold, check them out and make sure there are no leaks. Nothing stands out too much, make sure the head/manifold gasket is not restricting airflow.

I've never used this service, but i see lots of people on Instagram use http://kyushahouse.com/

Ouch 😞

Alright about to button up the gearbox and just want to verify the endplay of the front counter bearing. I've been having a difficult time getting the measurement "A" with my micrometer, it's all over the place. I opted to use plastigage as @EuroDat has suggested. I found Yellow Clevite brand plastigage (MPY-1) 0.23mm-0.51mm... I torqued down the front cover + gasket + plastigage and was not able to get an accurate reading on the plastigage, opted to add the shim. Front cover + gasket + shim (0.4mm original) + plastigage got me a ~0.37mm gap between the bearing and the inside of the front cover. (this was the squish of the plastigage) I measured the depth from the face of the front cover to where the bearing should sit at ~3.38-3.4mm I'm going to make a wild guess that the 0.75mm (uncompressed) gasket will squish down into 0.4mm... If i subtract the depth that I measured by the squish of the gage... I get (3.38-3.4mm - 0.37mm = ~3.01-3.03mm) Which means I should be running between a 0.4mm - 0.5mm shim.... I think that seems pretty reasonable... @Patcon @EuroDat can i get a sanity check on this? 🤔

@Patcon have you used a punch on the end of the counter shaft to make sure it’s all the way back? I gotta do this tomorrow, waiting on plastigauge.

I wonder what kind of valve seats it runs, steel?

Not a brake expert by any means, but Power Brake Exchange out of San Jose CA does a really nice rebuild on the stock booster. What's the advantage of a Tandem booster, more pressure through the line on a stock master cylinder? You say that your proportioning valve is running at its limit, so you're not really getting any adjustability out of it... I've read that when upgrading to a toyota caliper you should also change from the 7/8 to a larger master cylinder to make up for the volume difference, do the willwoods also need more pressure/volume? https://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/BoosterBrakePressureChart.pdf How did the brakes feel? Where was the engagement point?

I've been stumped on the front counter shaft, it seems like the value changes based on where i measure the bearing to the faceplate, as if its not sitting flat in the housing... It might be how I am using the end of the digital caliper to take the measurement, there could be variable in where I am holding it. If you are looking for a way to torque down the main nut, i used an autozone inner tie rod tool rental. It worked like a charm, after that you should be ready to measure the gear end play.