heyitsrama

the only way i was able to remove my front driver side was to drill out a hole in the bottom then stick a allthread rod inside and beat it out of the housing. Once you get it out its going to be super nasty and a pain to insert a new strut tube inside, so i took one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/grinding-cutting-wheels/2-inch-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-brush-94013.html extended it on a rod then through it into a drill to clean the inside of the tube. After that weld up the hole you made and your done. If you're talking about the glant nut that ZedHead is refering to, i welded a tube onto the top of the nut, then used a pipe wrench on the tube, which combined with the heat from the welding, and a 6ft cheater bar it came loose. heres a thread i had about it.

the only thing i can think of is if the internal diameter of the tube is too large it might loose pressure (not sure how important is it for the cam to have pressure).. other than that it looks nice to make it out of 1 section of tube, less stuff to fail.

ill take a look at this when i get home, if i recall i replaced the clutch master with a unit from Beck n Arnley but i should have the old one in storage... Maybe its something i can adjust..... Otherwise you know can always send the flywheel to get lightened and a new clutch ? (although i cant seem to find any one local to do this, i called Rebello and they dont offer the service anymore) is TEP the only "known" shop to offer the service ~$300? California Datsun seems to be offering them on ebay ~$200, but not sure if i wanna go down that route... ideally this would be solved with adjustment tho ?

I raced my Z at Thunderhill Raceway, and found a bunch of stuff that i need to iron out before the next track day.... 1. clutch chatter when taking off from a stop 2. Temperature switch does not turn on as advertised.....(fans never turned on) 3. Apparently the Temp Gauge / Oil pressure reading indicates an increase in both.... if i turn on my headlights or the fans kick on. Maybe grounding issue? 4. Alignment + tire balance to get rid of a shimmy. 5. maybe make a towbar for easier / more comfortable drives out to the track....

Power brake exchange in San Jose California can rebuild them, I had mine done by them; if you end up using them have them power coat the booster, they run it through a bead blaster, it should be an additional $20. im not sure if DIY kits are available... I wonder where PBE gets theirs....

Energy suspension makes a good brushing kit for these cars. If you can find an autozone coupon it’s pretty cost effective to swap them all out.

I don’t know those VW DSG gearboxes are pretty sweet of you ask me.... 2 seats is a coupe, more than two (or space for 2) is a 2x2. usually thuds over bumps can be the sway bar end links. However with that being said the last wheel thud I was tracking down ended up being the gland nut that holds the strut inside the strut tube.

https://twitter.com/jheil/status/1233077802553028609

@RIP260Z I bought this cool little pipe bender I've been trying to make some stuff on, i think i have a die that will work for pipe around that size. If you have the time could you take some rough dimensions for me?

What is the OD on the tube that is used to form the foot rest? It looks like it would be around 18-20mm?

oh wowowowow thats a parts party right there ^^^, my favorite kind of party. ?

looks really clean, can you share more pictures of how it looks in the engine bay?

View Advert R200 4.11 Hey, I have a r200 4.11 for sale, I'm located in the Bay Area (California), i pulled it out of a 200sx. I'll be driving out to the LA Area this weekend 2.14.2020 - 2.16.2020 if someone from LA wants it, i can bring it along. We can figure out shipping at the buyers expense, otherwise local pickup works with me. Im on my work computer, i can drop pics if requested.. Asking $300 ? Advertiser heyitsrama Date 02/11/2020 Price $300.00 Category Parts for Sale

i kinda like the look of the white lights in the car. possible to get a overall interior shot with the lights on? ?

Call ZCarGarage and ask if they know who did FranksB’s restoration on his green car, I saw this car in his garage years ago when I bought his rotisserie for my 73. Was a trip seeing all the parts he had collected for this. https://www.zcarblog.com/2019/12/02/performance/franks-1970-datsun-240z.html Looks like he moved out from the Bay Area a while ago. If they don’t know I can see if I can dig up his contact info.

There was not another cable inside the car so I can’t compare it to anything, but it does seem like there is extra cable. I’ll pull it out and inspect it. The fit between the wire and sleeve seemed tight, is there an easy way to feed oil in between them?

Apparently the FSM has diagrams for dimensions... at least i know it for the other floorpan i need to change out. I made my own outta 16ga sheets. You'll need a brake to make the folds (or some sharp angle iron in a press + hammer) and a bead roller. The bead roller really makes it come out nice, however the center bead that is used in OEM floorpan is kinda big...... 1/2"? (probably larger IIRC). I ended up using 2 smaller beads in the same space for strength, because my dies were not that big. some links here good luck!

Howdy! I have a 260z with 4screw SU's, im using a choke cable out of a 73" 240z and i find that the cable tends to bind, I really have to yank the crap outta the cable and it does not move much. I came across this video: and this guy has such a smooth movement of the choke! Is that because the choke is a different year? Has anyone replaced the choke with a non-oem replacement? I've not been able to find information about this. Regards,

shhhhhh dont let all the secrets out, it wont be fun reading old threads then.

Looks great! is the block painted?

@leonv What would you do in this circumstance? Do your eibach springs bind under load? I'm not sure that a 3/4in (280z isolator) or (0.7in zcar/thezstore spacer) would be enough to get the ride height in the rear to where i would want it. I think i would want at least an inch of height back. All that considered, it seems like getting the correct 240z spring setup might be the best thing to do as, i would be able to get more comfort for a car that is really being built primarily for street use, with occasional track use.. Sorry for bothering you about this, but it seems that your one of the only documented sources for this information online ?

It seems that the rear strut insulator for a 260-280z is NLA everything online is used, maybe this is why the spacer exists....

@LeonV it seems that changing out the rear strut isolator to a 280z is more cost effective than replacing all the springs, I’m reading in other threads that it should account for 3/4” of increase in height. would keeping these 280z springs mean I would retain a more “sportier” feel in the suspension?

@LeonV have you made any changes to your setup? I have a 12/73 260z and I put what I believe are 280 tokico springs on the car. the car is too damn low! I can’t even get my low profile jack under it! I used to be able to just slide under without a jack! I’m not sure how to approach this. I saw that there are metal spacers that are available... https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z#&gid=1&pid=3 which should take up 0.7” of the 1” perch difference, unless there is a 1” option somewhere...

I've been using both their clutch master and brake master for the past couple of years. I've had good experiences w/ Beck-Arnley parts after being suggested to use them from other forum members.