heyitsrama

@Captain Obvious i still have my old skateboard deck cut into pieces and glued in stacks in attempt to make something like this, i dont have access to a lathe, would you be able to turn them for me? Would pay you for the trouble. I just like the way the wood looks, but like the shape of the OEM Z ones more.

@Kats take a look at this, Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

yeah make some shelves and a big counter top, you can do it with some 2x4 and plys. if you can get your hands on a steel sink, that would ideal ideal.

The mounting points for the grill are different than 73! Dont mind reproduction spoilers, let me know. Regards

I like this one, it was on a land cruiser forum.

Any chance to have the s20 motor build documented? :) would be a very cool thing to see.

thats great advice guys, ill take it into note tomorrow, I'm going to practice a little more before attempting the weld, I think my issue is that my full face needs a light on it, I think I can whip something up with some magnets, and this for-head light that I got. I could not see the gap that I was going for no sunlight on that part of the house until 1-2pm! Mark, by having no gap for thin metal, would these 16 gauge panels fall into that scope? Grannyknot, I was planning to use panel bond between the lap-joint on the rear section, weld, prime + undercoat to seal it all up, just want to get the shape down more..... Thanks for the support guys ?

I had to jump through hoops to find a replacement gauge for this regulator on the argon tank, but I finally got it going today. The welds look much cleaner, you were right grannyknot, I don’t wanna go back to flux core ha. I was thinking about penetration with the setup, I feel like if I get a good bead going, it flows to both sides of the sheet, the first image is the weld side, and the second is the “under” section, I can see where I made the regulator adjustments. It seems that with good penetration it might not be required to go under and weld everything over, maybe in certain spots? Got the pan shape to be better in the rear too, the corner where it attaches to near the dogleg is tough. Persistence (little hammer) and deliverance (big hammer) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Are the gaskets still pliable? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here is my early 260z regulator that I had to repair.

Wow that’s super clean. I like the fog lights! What’s next on the list of stuff to do? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My buddy Andy works at that shop, they have some cool cars that go through there. http://www.zcarblog.com

Not sure if it’s the same but here’s one that’s 3.4 http://lescollinsracing.com/engine/projects-engine/3435cc-z-racer

Interesting, I was having a similar issue with my l26, and was able to tune ( adjusted floats) the issue out of 3rd gear, but it became more prominent in 4th. I’m currently running a carter-4070 fuel pump which says it’s rated 50gph. I was informed that my gear ratio can also “amplify” the felt effects of loosing torque. That I sort of understood, running a 3.36 on a close ratio 5spd. But I don’t have anything to compare it to. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I was not aware that KYB could handle lowering springs. shame I just replaced the suspension on my Z and the car sits so high now, was really considering getting springs, and redoing it. What springs did you go with if you done mind me asking.. ?

they both look really nice, what suspension setup does the blue one have?

e Dave Chidester, Laguna Seca 1974

Hey Geoff what area do you live in, maybe someone from the club can lend a hand? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

my buddies putting a small block v8 into this 914-4. I guess if it ships it fits. I just think its gonna ring the drivers ears out. sons first car to ha.

Hey if you’re looking to get rid of them I know the guys behind vintage dashes wanted NOS panels to use as templates for reproductions, might be worth while contacting them, can probably pay what their worth /get panels back to the community Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

See@jem2749 told you these dudes would answer your questions ha. Nice to see you here. [emoji14] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

don't wash it NOOOOOOOOO keep the dust

There was no way I was going to be able to get the shape that I wanted out of the metal by beating on it. I was just lucky that I called up my buddy who had one. The only issue is that the beads are the wrong size, but im not sure if anyone makes a die in that size 2.5", I was thinking of drawing one out and having my grandpa make one while he's over seas. I want to learn how to use the tool more effectively, maybe make the rear deck-lid replacements. I lucked out on the metal brake, my grandpa built this one that does the job, but the max length is 18" the floor pan is 17" I was reading over on hybridZ that people swear by using argon blend gas with their mig welders for sheet metal at 18ga. I had good luck with a flux-core wire when I was repairing the hood, I think this welder I have has a gas option, would it be worth while to switch over? Cleaner = Stronger = Smoother = More better? ha

@Patcon, there is a lap weld on the rear section like the second set of photos. I’ll reshape the pan tomorrow to try to get it snug like a bug in a rug. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

@Patcon @grannyknot So I formed the a pan with two 1/2" beads in the middle with a 1.5" strip between them. Im running into some different ways to get the pan welded, and with that formed to the contour of the bottom of the car. The first way is to do 3-butt welds (front, trans side, rear) and plug up some of the holes I made, and have the rocker panel spot welded + glued. The second way is 2-butts (front , trans) and have the rear section overlap like OEM, rocker is spot welded + glued. I'll need to massage the pan again to get it to fit properly on the rocker side, but probably take me 20 min. EDIT* I also would need to drop down the section thats on the frame rail that connected to the round portion of the old pan, I think cutting a slit and hammering it flat to be welded to the new floor pan should work.... Ultimately I understand that its not going to look perfect, but im okay with the compromise. Better than the old section that feels like a taco shell thats been sitting outside for days.