heyitsrama
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Everything posted by heyitsrama
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I use what most of the people use up there, just wanted to add; Permatex Anti-Sieze. Dow-Corning Telescopic Grease for brake caliper // pad parts https://www.acrossinternational.com/Dow-Corning-53-Oz-Colorless-High-Vacuum-Sealing-Grease-Tube-DowGrease53oz.htm Started using the DCTG after spending time restoring Honda SOHC4 brake calipers. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,56544.50.html Gamma did some interesting research on the grease, and how it reacted to temperature in that thread. One tube lasts a long time.
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Ah I just upgraded to a 5spd close ratio, I kinda liked my 4spd more, it just seemed like it was on-ramp happy, once on the freeway the 5spd is really nice for puttering around. Makes sense to wait, but... if you already have one thats just sitting around, slap it in
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So, I follow a lot of Z guys in Japan on Instagram, check out these connectors for a fuel sender, I like the shape of the rubber cover. anyone seen anything like this? Mine are super stiff, and I cant get a good connection on the sender, seems to be finicky.
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Good to hear Jeff, I was starting to get worried that they were so cheap, by chance the one I got was one that worked
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seems like arrow faces forward.. I just replaced this on my car I should know, but I cant recall. all I remember is doing it twice because it did not line up haha.
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Danny De-Vito taught me the same thing almost 15 years ago hahaha.
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That exhaust looks really clean, is it the revision that came out recently? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Damn! this means that my car might not actually have 30k smiles interesting find.
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I wonder why the oreilly one was not working; they have warranties I assume? Seems like it was shorting out.
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I used ultra-power PS153; works like a charm, $3 bucks on rock auto. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Passenger roundie mirrors, aftermarket option? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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My 260 had this issue, it was the brake booster that failed. The brake was significantly more difficult to push down when this happened. I got it repaired at Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, took them a couple days to rebuild. They beadblasted it when I got it back. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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That looks like a solid find, what kind of 5spd gearbox? Was the interior trashed from weathering? I found rust under the seats in one of my cars from the driver window being open for years. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Change the vent lines it’s not that bad >.> Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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280z Master Cylinder Heat Shield Picture Request
heyitsrama replied to heyitsrama's topic in Open Discussions
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Hey, I needed to refer to pictures of the master cylinder heat shield for 77-78? 280zs. I wanted to apply it to my 260, I would think that the brackets mount to the master/booster? If anyone has pictures that would be really helpful! Regards, Rama
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I thought the paint looks nice on the car, it seems to change colour when the shots are presented from AUS, I wonder if its the camera settings. There appears to be hodge-podged parts from earlier cars, like the grill/240z turn signals, and some of the interior as well with the accordion shift boot (ZX?). One thing that was confusing was the author saying that the front bumper/lip was stock in Japan, is this true? "It’s nice to see a nice stock front on an S30, don’t you think? The ZG nose is a great addition, and one that people love to do outside of Japan, but there’s something so simple and authentic about the original front end that the car came with." Maybe the owner built the car with the intention of selling it anyway.
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Hey Yall, Going to be taking the Z to a track event in a couple weeks, I wanted to get some gloves. Was hoping to find someones old pair that they don't really use anymore. Shoot me a PM! Regards, Rama
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On a 4-screw w/equal length arms, I can’t recall if the nozzle was longer in the front. I believe there was a difference within the replacement ones that I bought. But I ended up setting the float distance from the inside of the float bowl lid. I’m running 13/32in,(10.3mm) for the front; 16/32in (12.7mm) the rear. Need to check how the color-tune results are, the sparks run pretty clean. Edit* typo
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https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tapatalk.classiczcarscom The required version of Android is 4.2+, perhaps you were using an older version for the application, in that case @Mike might have an older build version that he can send. If you can update the Android version on the tablet, that might sort you out. There have been lots of recent security fixes within the last 1.5 years, if you have the option to update the hardware, you get security updates from the newer operating systems, as well as a faster machine.
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When I did my rebuild, I opted to keep the carb coolant lines, it was for the reasons that 240260280 posted above, and some other research over from zCar.com . Some people say that they can run them with no issues, I'd rather just have the coolant moving around. If you are going to replace the thermostat, go OEM, aftermarket have accuracy and precision issues.
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Our friends over at HybridZ have some info, I removed the 2 connectors, but had to jump the reset switch to get power to the relay for the solenoid. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/80626-260z-seatbelt-interlock-defeat/
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that weber setup looks great. almost as good as this BCH. ha
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Grubbs can you take some photos of the repair? My Z has the same issue, I just wanna see how the repair is approached. Regards
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Looks like the sense wire for the alternator? It’s on that combination of wires, the positive and ground are in the background. You might wanna get a good crimp tool, if you need new connectors checkout vintage connections
