heyitsrama

Yeah, I think that’s the route that I’ll be going, I just hoped to compare some images of the final install, I’ve seen some 240z at shows that have a little bulge to them. Better than leaks I suppose.

Dave did you have to insert the tip of the pump into the seal? I’m not sure how my seal would withstand this, it seems a little cracked.

I used some seals from McMaster Kar, Part 1120A333 https://www.specterbyte.com/recursive-issues/ Some pictures in this link. They fit well.

Howdy, It was raining so hard earlier I woke up and was thinking about the Z parked outside. I wanted to verify if the door seal was holding up, but it looks like the new spot for the water to enter through it on 3 corners of the windshield. That can’t be happening, it’s going to have to get sealed up. My heart skipped a beat when looking at OEM seal costs, $3–4-500. Does anyone have pictures of the “third party” options? So far I see that precision makes some, and so does vintage rubber. I like the look of the chrome in the channel, wanted to keep it. Does anyone have pictures of the seal close up? I attempted to search, but can’t locate images. Thanks y’all.

Anyone have a wood lathe? I have these really cool layered pieces of wood, I just don’t know anyone in the Bay Area with a wood lathe

Wow, I've not updated this in a while, I started posting on this website that I was building ( https://www.specterbyte.com ). The car is now running...... And sometimes people come over to my house begging me to sell them the car.. its not happening. I ran into issues of the carb not running correctly (issue was ignition timing, I was running it retarded due to fear from flat top pistons + re surfaced N42) Ignition was upgraded to remove the scatter from points, using a MSD 12v Coil + ZX Dizzy. Mechanical fuel pump was leaking, so I deleted the pump, and started running the OEM electrical pump, going to swap it out for a Carter p4070 for reliability. Winter plans are to pain the body panels ( https://www.automotivetouchup.com) color matches pretty well, fix windows and perhaps get this GPS/GSM module setup inside the car. Winter plans also say, finish the CB550, and start metal work in the white Z... One day at a time.... (I only take pictures of the good side HA!)

Funny, I deleted my mechanical pump this week due to to leakage, and I swear just running the OEM electrical pump in the rear I get worse milage.. maybe its because finally it pulls hard enough to where I'm just abusing it. http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=260z/1974/EF Fuel System this file indicates that it should be outputting a max of 4.6 PSI, I wonder what the fuel rail see, the diameter of the pipe changes from 5/16 to 1/4 at the fuel rail.... What intertia switch did you go with? Ford?

I recently had my 260z booster rebuilt from Power Brakes Exchange in San Jose, there were markings on the enclosure tabs, but it needs to be done to get to the internals, they also bead blasted it as well. I was looking at auto zone, and noticed that they also sell remanufactured units through there. So far its great, I can stop the car again funny that my brakes booster failed on me when I had to stop to avoid a truck that entered my lane.... I do wish I had the sticker on it however. :\ Im not sure that " if its not broken don't fix it" applies here, although I do follow the saying a lot. Mine failed at me in a shitty moment, at this point the internals are. 40+ years old, and really should be refurbished. esp considering the impact that it can have on drivability. Mine lasted 6-7 months? before failing..

It's always nice to think of everyone over on CZCC

@HaZmatt I love the attention that you put to this car, inspires me to keep working on mine Have you considers putting it onto bring-a-trailer? Currently theres a series 1 thats been modified bidding for around $38k, I'm sure that you can use the finances to support your business! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-35/

Howdy Guys, I need to get some carpeting in my car, does anyone have an old set sitting around, on the last year of university and can't really be throwing cash at a new set. Looking for front mats // behind the seats // and the rear trunk. Thanks! Rama

Those carpet retaining clips would be cool, people want a small fortune for them currently. I’m glad to see shop classes are still being supported, in the Bay Area most of them have been closed.

I don't like double use systems, on all the 4runners I work on I deliberately tell the owners to switch to a stand alone unit. Leaks between the system mean either oil in the rad, or water in the trans, either way a no-no for me.

That baby blue color is really nice, its soft on the eyes.

currently its set to 0 mechanical, and the dizzy is retarded all the way. With the timing gun, can see the mark on the crank pully pass by after the 0 mark on the timing bracket. I inspected the carbs fuel level, it appears that the fuel makes it to the top of the front jet, (i can blow over the jet and see it move down then up), however on the rear carb it does not appear to make its way to the top. I cleaned out the jet, and readjusted the mixture to attempt to tune out the little stutter that it has, on the driveway it seems okay so far.

Valves were adjusted almost 1000miles ago, checked while motor was "hot", timing was set around same time, but i should probably double triple check the adjustment.

Kats, I was sitting around looking at pictures of peoples builds on Instagram for GTR / 2000GT, and was looking for similarities between them and any of the Z's (either fitted with s20, or L-series) I wanted to ask, do people race and compare the chassis with each other over in Japan? Are there advantages/disadvantages between them?

Mark ill give that a try, is there an accurate way to check if the fuel level is at 1/16" below the top? I assume eyeballing it to a reference would be "okay" How many times do these 4-screw jets turn out? I think mine does almost 3.5 turns before it bottoms out, however on some threads I hear that people are able to get more than that?

Ah someone has yet to respond to this, but I thought I might as well give an update to what has happened so far. I set the front carb to 13/32" clearance from the top plane of the float chamber, and according to some online images, i added 2.4mm to the rear clearance, for a total of 16/32", I set the idle around 700-800 ~25mmHg on the syncrometer, the motor pulls a lot better, and less sputtering, although on right turns the engine complains a little. I think leaning out the jets might help address the dieseling issue that I'm having when turning off the motor, will further test tonight.

Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float settings: Idle ~6-750RPM @ 20mmhg on the flowmeter apparently for this carb (1970 4-screw), the instruction set that came with the carb rebuild kit states that I should be at 10.38mm on both front and rear carb, online readings indicate that the rear should be configured at ~2mm lower than the front, but the 1970 4-screws have equal length float arms, and the new floats that I got have longer floats needles in the front, while the float needles that came with the carbs are equal length front and rear. When I end up placing a new (aftermarket) float needle into the rear carb, and set it to ~10.38mm FROM THE FLAT PLATE THAT THE FLOAT NEEDLE SITS ON, i end up with a sunk float needle, which leads me to believe that the configuration is incorrect. I think adjusting the float level correctly would be the first thing to do in order to get the mixture configuration correct, does anyone have some input, or maybe some settings that work for their 4-screw? Should I switch the manufacturer for the float needles? Really want to drive it

It would be a shame to loose all that data that people have figured out. Should be archived if anything. It's like google searching a zcar.com link and getting routed to their forum index. [emoji58] frustrating when searching for solutions.

happen to have an alternator pully?

I want one of these for my Z, is that zstore link to the same BSR style lip? Shame no carbon options

I was under the assumption that Nissan was chrome plating these peices, which allow them to still last the years. I'll compare it to my buddies Mini Cooper Mk1, and AH Sprite. They should have British Manufactored SU-Carbs, and inspect.

Is there a way to retain the GB (water) texture that is on the aluminum, for long period of time? Kats those SUs look very nice. I like the cadmium coating on all the fittings.