heyitsrama

Valves were adjusted almost 1000miles ago, checked while motor was "hot", timing was set around same time, but i should probably double triple check the adjustment.

Kats, I was sitting around looking at pictures of peoples builds on Instagram for GTR / 2000GT, and was looking for similarities between them and any of the Z's (either fitted with s20, or L-series) I wanted to ask, do people race and compare the chassis with each other over in Japan? Are there advantages/disadvantages between them?

Mark ill give that a try, is there an accurate way to check if the fuel level is at 1/16" below the top? I assume eyeballing it to a reference would be "okay" How many times do these 4-screw jets turn out? I think mine does almost 3.5 turns before it bottoms out, however on some threads I hear that people are able to get more than that?

Ah someone has yet to respond to this, but I thought I might as well give an update to what has happened so far. I set the front carb to 13/32" clearance from the top plane of the float chamber, and according to some online images, i added 2.4mm to the rear clearance, for a total of 16/32", I set the idle around 700-800 ~25mmHg on the syncrometer, the motor pulls a lot better, and less sputtering, although on right turns the engine complains a little. I think leaning out the jets might help address the dieseling issue that I'm having when turning off the motor, will further test tonight.

Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float settings: Idle ~6-750RPM @ 20mmhg on the flowmeter apparently for this carb (1970 4-screw), the instruction set that came with the carb rebuild kit states that I should be at 10.38mm on both front and rear carb, online readings indicate that the rear should be configured at ~2mm lower than the front, but the 1970 4-screws have equal length float arms, and the new floats that I got have longer floats needles in the front, while the float needles that came with the carbs are equal length front and rear. When I end up placing a new (aftermarket) float needle into the rear carb, and set it to ~10.38mm FROM THE FLAT PLATE THAT THE FLOAT NEEDLE SITS ON, i end up with a sunk float needle, which leads me to believe that the configuration is incorrect. I think adjusting the float level correctly would be the first thing to do in order to get the mixture configuration correct, does anyone have some input, or maybe some settings that work for their 4-screw? Should I switch the manufacturer for the float needles? Really want to drive it

It would be a shame to loose all that data that people have figured out. Should be archived if anything. It's like google searching a zcar.com link and getting routed to their forum index. [emoji58] frustrating when searching for solutions.

happen to have an alternator pully?

I want one of these for my Z, is that zstore link to the same BSR style lip? Shame no carbon options

I was under the assumption that Nissan was chrome plating these peices, which allow them to still last the years. I'll compare it to my buddies Mini Cooper Mk1, and AH Sprite. They should have British Manufactored SU-Carbs, and inspect.

Is there a way to retain the GB (water) texture that is on the aluminum, for long period of time? Kats those SUs look very nice. I like the cadmium coating on all the fittings.

That picture looks like the setup for my l24 from 73", I can take a gander at it after work today. Funny it's also caked in oil

That's pretty sweet! I saw this car at Pixar Studios for our car show this past Friday. It's pretty sweet, did not get to hear it drive. It's in the back, behind this picture of the Cosmo ;(

When you replaced the pump was it with a high pressure unit? Or an OEM equivalent? How did you clean the floats? I had to actually disassemble the valve inside the float and clean the seat.

My Z had this issue, what I did was open the float bowl, remove the needle, take it apart and clean, and put back together. You might need a gasket if the old one is old. Try blowing air through the gas inlet, while lifting the float up to see if it's able to seal correctly. After you have this all done, turn the page to the service manual and get a base tune. Might be worthwhile to grab a carb tune. I thought mine was good, but my front was around 13 mmHg while the rear was probably around 7, I had the impression it was running good until I got my hands on the tool, and got them both on an idle around 12, now it's running like butter. Good luck, ask good questions, read and reread.

I suspect that OEM Nissan fenders come unpainted?

Howdy, One of these threads again.... I guess it's okay to have another one every couple of years, keep the information "fresh" I needed some assistance regarding what color my Z is, the tag located on the front cross-member was not stamped as is blank. I believe that it would be 304 Gold Metallic based on information that I found from, http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/ I'm not currently looking to respray the whole car, i just need to get it semi-presentable to take out on dates, which means the driver fender // hood // front valance need to be addressed. I was considering to order the paint from http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1974-Datsun-pg01.jpg But am open to taking recommendations from others if you guys have had a good experience with a particular vendor. Perhaps order a sample prior to ordering the whole can?

Wow that's really cool, are there reproductions of this available? (I assume the OEM Nissan ones would be hard to come by). It does not appear to be made out of metal? On the third image it looks more like a fiber based material..

Hey Kats do you know if there is a difference between the dump guard on 240z vs z432? I was reading online that z432 goes from the radiator to near the firewall, while the 240z dump guards go from the radiator to the crossmember. Thanks for all the photos by the way, it's nice to see well treated cars.

I like the mud flaps, was there an option for those in US? Or aftermarket item? With the stock ride height, I think I would want them on my Z, makes it look like an off-road car. 8)

Howdy, I'm looking for 280z hood vents and a 240/260z lower front valance. Let me know what you have. I don't mind primered stuff. Regards

Don't ever buy a Z they are not good cars. Take it from me Dewey, you don't want part of this. :^)

Glad to hear you're alive, hope you heal up quick! Did you have any safety equipment in the car? I was driving my buddies Morris Mini and felt like a jelly bean inside a jar, no belts, no headrest on the seat. Thought to myself a full cage might be worth it... but that car needs plenty of other stuff.

Wow that heater hose system looks great, did you make that yourself? Did you have to rethread the oil pressure threads to accept that T fitting?

I mean I'm down for all those upgrades on the car, I would consider them OEM+, but modifications start when you pull the grinders and welders out. [emoji14] So the 260z is the black sheep in regards to its electrical system.

When was the last time the head got a valve adjustment? If it's not been done in your ownership, i would start there.