heyitsrama

That picture looks like the setup for my l24 from 73", I can take a gander at it after work today. Funny it's also caked in oil

That's pretty sweet! I saw this car at Pixar Studios for our car show this past Friday. It's pretty sweet, did not get to hear it drive. It's in the back, behind this picture of the Cosmo ;(

When you replaced the pump was it with a high pressure unit? Or an OEM equivalent? How did you clean the floats? I had to actually disassemble the valve inside the float and clean the seat.

My Z had this issue, what I did was open the float bowl, remove the needle, take it apart and clean, and put back together. You might need a gasket if the old one is old. Try blowing air through the gas inlet, while lifting the float up to see if it's able to seal correctly. After you have this all done, turn the page to the service manual and get a base tune. Might be worthwhile to grab a carb tune. I thought mine was good, but my front was around 13 mmHg while the rear was probably around 7, I had the impression it was running good until I got my hands on the tool, and got them both on an idle around 12, now it's running like butter. Good luck, ask good questions, read and reread.

I suspect that OEM Nissan fenders come unpainted?

Howdy, One of these threads again.... I guess it's okay to have another one every couple of years, keep the information "fresh" I needed some assistance regarding what color my Z is, the tag located on the front cross-member was not stamped as is blank. I believe that it would be 304 Gold Metallic based on information that I found from, http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/ I'm not currently looking to respray the whole car, i just need to get it semi-presentable to take out on dates, which means the driver fender // hood // front valance need to be addressed. I was considering to order the paint from http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1974-Datsun-pg01.jpg But am open to taking recommendations from others if you guys have had a good experience with a particular vendor. Perhaps order a sample prior to ordering the whole can?

Wow that's really cool, are there reproductions of this available? (I assume the OEM Nissan ones would be hard to come by). It does not appear to be made out of metal? On the third image it looks more like a fiber based material..

Hey Kats do you know if there is a difference between the dump guard on 240z vs z432? I was reading online that z432 goes from the radiator to near the firewall, while the 240z dump guards go from the radiator to the crossmember. Thanks for all the photos by the way, it's nice to see well treated cars.

I like the mud flaps, was there an option for those in US? Or aftermarket item? With the stock ride height, I think I would want them on my Z, makes it look like an off-road car. 8)

Howdy, I'm looking for 280z hood vents and a 240/260z lower front valance. Let me know what you have. I don't mind primered stuff. Regards

Don't ever buy a Z they are not good cars. Take it from me Dewey, you don't want part of this. :^)

Glad to hear you're alive, hope you heal up quick! Did you have any safety equipment in the car? I was driving my buddies Morris Mini and felt like a jelly bean inside a jar, no belts, no headrest on the seat. Thought to myself a full cage might be worth it... but that car needs plenty of other stuff.

Wow that heater hose system looks great, did you make that yourself? Did you have to rethread the oil pressure threads to accept that T fitting?

I mean I'm down for all those upgrades on the car, I would consider them OEM+, but modifications start when you pull the grinders and welders out. [emoji14] So the 260z is the black sheep in regards to its electrical system.

When was the last time the head got a valve adjustment? If it's not been done in your ownership, i would start there.

Some members like AC Delco Friction Modified trans oil, but I'm unsure if it could also be applied to the diff. I don't see why not.

If the car is trashed then modify to your hearts desire, but don't be the one to tear into a perfectly good chassis. IMO. Seems like the were also trying to get the electronics sorted out. At least on my car I feel that way. Not sure about the 75', was the interlock unit kept on the efi cars?

Every time I see a dash cap it makes me sure that some of the restorations people do on their dash are well worth the time. Its a fairly clean Z, what image is showing the left frame rail?

Yeah your huge compression loss on one of the banks indicates issues. Do a leakdown test before you pull it off. Note the where the air is escaping. What does the oil look like? In the cylinders that are low does the top of the piston look clean?

I'm down to go I can offer mechanical help and photography...... Last year we snuck onto the track.... hehe was a great time. Could not afford the tickets to get in

Hey Stanley, not to thread hijack, but what do you mean by intermittent cranking? My Z was doing something stilly yesterday that I'm still thinking about where if I take the coil to the dizzy and connect them, the starter struggles to turn over. If I break that connection it spins fine.

They might have them? They still asking for a grip for the panel?

Not that I know of, your best bet is to find one in a junk yard and cut it out, there is a guy on hybrid Z who is parting out a 260z, should be the same. Some people go in and match the curvature of the panel, but then just relocate the battery into rear of the car.

Howdy, Was able to get the motor running yesterday. I set everything TDC and realized that the dizzy shaft was 180* off. It makes sense why the motor was "backfiring" through the carb, the timing was off and perhaps a valve was still open when the little spark cam through. So I dropped the oil pump (3rd time) and got the dizzy shaft installed correctly. I noticed however on the restart of the motor after that initial "start" the starter seemed to struggle to rotate everything. (Bat tested 12.25v) I only ran it for a couple of seconds (1-2 tops), turned it off to inspect for leaks // oil. I noticed that the rocker chamber was super dry, no oil dry. Which is strange because a couple weeks back I was able to get oil to the top end, through the external oil bar. So I removed the oil pump again(4th time), attempted to prime it like the second time, although on each time since its been open after the 2nd time, I always prime it. Testing was done with no spark plugs, motor spins right up. I digress, when I removed the oil pump yesterday I realized that the pump seems to be half filled in each chamber (fill//return) so I spun the dizzy shaft and kept putting oil into the fill, noticed a few bubbles in there. Perhaps that was the cause of the issue. But why would the fill be half empty? That would imply that the pump fill strainer is not getting the correct amount of oil? Does the fact that the car is on the driveway on 4 jacks stands make a difference for oil level? I would assume the strainer is still submerged. I had to stop working last night due to rain, but it's kinda concerning that the block has not been getting oil while I was testing ignition issues. I'm kinda stuck on which way I should approach the testing, especially because it was getting oil prior to the 3rd removal. I should also get the oil pressure gauge sorted out. Seems like a wiring thing. If you made it all the way down here thanks for reading all that, if not TLDR : I had oil pressure, now I don't.