heyitsrama

I saw the thumbnail in the iOS app, and thought "Pipe bombs are not garage tools" Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wow looks fast where does the a l28et get oil for the turbo from? Does it require an oil cooler?? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm not sure what your talking about my 260z has 35k on it only. [emoji57][emoji23]

I have not bought door skins, but I bought the firewall engine harness grommet, was really impressed. Mike does mail orders from USPS, just email him before hand. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What happens to the hose that vents from the valve cover? If you moved it to overflow can you tap into that? Or is it all atmosphere? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Is there a chance that you have an adware package installed on the computer? 3/5 times my clients had one installed when they said their computer would get "pop ups", but I was working exclusively on OSX machines. I've never really noticed a reason to stop JS on any computer that I'm using, primary is a MacBook from 2009, never seen performance degradation within Safari, chrome however tends to hog RAM down. Opera Developer edition has a free VPN I thought it was pretty cool, unlimited use too.

Could you post a picture of your ignition system if you have a chance?

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html This guide is pretty good, always gets referred out to. Should be really straight forward. Any chance you'd want to sell the old fuse link boxes? I might wanna go back to them on my 74'. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's why you wanna get good ignition system

That looks really cozy. Nice :^) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It's interesting that this l26 I picked up does not have any of the emissions temperature sensors on it, either it was removed or not included. Did the 260z have a bracket with all the electronics next to the battery? I was reading over that last night, seems like a good upgrade for increased spark. Does it require one of the newer distributors with the gear-like mechanism inside the cap?

I swear granny last night the website was down! This guy lives down the street, I really want to just go over and ask for the parts. >.> But I have to order some more 10guage wire for the headlights. For the positive battery is 2/0 commonly used?

Updates: 12/26 Happy Christmas / Holidays Everyone Ive been slowly working on the Z, my school finals are complete so I have more time to kill on this. So i snapped a exhaust stud (#1), said **** drilling it out because i was off center and messed it all up. Going to Helicoil it at some point, not now, i just put everything back together, it seems like its going to be able to hold. {^thread that has dizzy information, my manual was missing some of this } Working on the harness right now; the distributor on the engine i got was a D614-52 off an automatic 240z, but it was modified with a removed section of points, this confused the crap outta me until i pulled it apart and looked for the clean markings from where the points plate was screwed into the distributor. {^thread reference to the auto dual -> pertronix conversion} I got stuck with the transistorized ignition system thats on the 260z ( i have 2, one with the body, one with the hacked harness i bought). Im reading online that theses electronics crap out randomly (being old electronics). So i do plan to move away from this type of ignition. I was hoping to just get a Pertronix Ignition upgrade, because that seems to be the most reliable. BUT will only do it if i can keep the old tack, i dont have a ballast resistor, so i need to go 3ohm. HOWEVER i am going to leave the wiring in the engine bay for all the little electronics/sensors that the transistorized ignition needs, I just want it close to OEM spec..... It appears that some other person on this form upgraded a dualpoint auto dizzy to use the PT ignition, I think im going to attempt to install this dizzy that i have, then later get the PT Ignition. I need to figure out what to do for the front light terminal connectors, i cant find anything good online, except Vintage Connections (but they are having server issues right now) Information needed: Anyone have a old dizzy single point, that i can upgrade to a pertronix ignition, that they dont need? Is it cool to even run a Dual Point Dizzy, with the second point removed? It seems like it should be fine because the 2nd is just for emmissions... Anyone have a throttle linkage piece that goes from a 260z, to a round top carb? It seems that the old 260z one does not reach all the way... Headlight / Sidelight / Frontlight terminal connections? 4-3way plugs + 2-2wayPlugs i think Dave might have some that he's stashed away...

http://modesto.craigslist.org/cto/5903328070.html I think the black/blue/dark one is the 69, does not look like it has the side vents... some other chassis going cheap, would be cool to take them all, maybe get close to having one complete car...... i wonder what VIN is it

man i did not get to see what yall were talking about. did anyone save a screenshot?

I was thinking about it the other day when i realized that with a single one being so old, there is chance that it would be on its way out, it just seems good to at least one backup, i mean triple A only does 100 miles for "free"... I'll try some of the high heat JBweld, or maybe something else at the hardware store, I kinda wish i had a way to weld it up. But those old manifolds are cast iron? Arc welding / stick welding might do it... <1000*F? Same case for break booster? Any particular brand for these MC? I'm inclined to get beck n arnley, i did like their timing kit i got a few months ago, and try to get that insulator too, thanks for the advise

Alright: well this had not been updated for a while. Anyway it looks nice in there, it will look better when everything is up and running. I need to get the fuel system sorted out, I've been debating if I want to keep the mechanical fuel pump. The last one that was on the l24 I had was very leaky. and I do like how it cleans the engine bay. But im all about function over form, so if it helps prevent vapor lock then why not. Not sure how the wiring is in on the fuel stuff however, there are 3 tubes present that run back to the fuel tank? I thought the return would be on the other side, where the carburator is. I also have an issue with the header, i had an E30 stock header that came with the L26 motor, but the stock exhaust that I have does not meet the length, and clear the bellhousing for the trans. I also have a beat up N33 one, which fit with the exhaust and i dont think there would be any issues with it. HOWEVER, its super rusted. There is also the issue of that tube thing that is sticking out and all beat up. There was a screw thing holding it on, but i attempted to remove it, and ended up breaking it..... At this point the rust looks like it fused the metal together... damn ions. There are also these little tube things that go into the head on the exhaust ports? It looks like the E30 head had them shaved down, im not sure the purpose of them? They might be smog related, but I did not plan to run smog equipment on this car..... And the harness needs to get built still. Ive been acquiring more connectors off Z cars from junk yards, hoping to make a full relatively stock harness. Need to order a Clutch MC, the MC Slave for the trans // hose. and also need to get a new MC for the brakes. I have a 15/16" master sitting around that looks rebuilt, but the bolt pattern is horizontal not vertical. (normally you cant use this type?) BUT the booster I have looks like its made for horizontal bolts because it has an adapter plate on it, what gives? I have new plastics for the master, but am unsure if this would be usable in the setup that I have, i also have some S14+ (i think thats the casting?) 4Runner brakes that might be upgradeable.... I kinda just wanna drive the car, so getting anxious now :0 I also did a brass bushing upgrade to the non-existant trans bushing. Questions : Do the tubes that run into the head from the header matter? What about that broken bolt/tube thing near the flange? Do i seal that up with JB weld? Mechanical Fuel pump? Delete or keep? Helps prevent vapor lock? Master Cylinders? What brand do you guys replace with? I got some DEA engine mounts and they are &#036;^&#33;#, neither of them align with the posts (if anyone needs them ill send them to you just ask) Transmission Insulator brand? I see some aftermarket ones for 4-7$ but im not sure if its not going to align up like the DEA ones i got. Any recommendation?

That looks great.

dude thanks! i just sent him a message, i guess all the guys are parting the cars out over on zcar.com, ive been just on hybridz and here

Part number should be 96301-E4600 I'm still looking for a mirror, cant fork the money out for a brand new OEM one, gotta still pay tuition for this coming semester of school

from my research that I was doing when finding parts for my motor, there were bronze seats used in the e88 heads, while the e42 head that i bought had steel seat placed into them (not sure if replaced). But according to http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ only 2 states during the e42 run had steel seats (and cats), while the other 48 states had bronze. you could pull the head off and check

Wow that paint looks amazing, can i get some information regarding how the spray was done? I dont have the money to buy ANOTHER Z (or space for that matter ) but when i go to repaint my car thats what i want to look at

Currently: Lower portion of the block is assembled; i ran into issues with the e88 head that came with the motor, everything was straight forward, except the bronze seats were not sitting properly, there was also a rounding taper on the valve face... if you want to read about that I started new thread TLDR : I attempted to lap the valves, but the leakdown test i performed after assembly indicated that there was still heavy amount of air blowby from the seats. I had two options get a new head repair the old one ($375 in machining all valve seats (your machine shop might be cheaper), + $120 new valves + $80 new seats I went with the first option, and actually im kinda pissed off about it. When i was looking at the head, it looked immaculate from the resurfacing done on it, there was like a super bright shine. I saw it outside too, and attempted to give it a good over look, but ended up missing the small cracks located at the center head bolt hole. It does not seem that bad, but it appears that it should be slightly drilled out, and then filled in via tig welding.... kinda upset about it, but you know its repairable. its also my fault for not inspecting it over with a comb. I really just want to drive the damn car.... Classes start in 3 days, have to get it all sorted out by then. (o.0) What do you guys think about the crack? Repair it i assume? Ive been looking at some alluminum brazing / soldering, it seems doable...

Ah, i returned the STD ones, ZCarDepot, seems to be the only vender that has 020" in stock? https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/engine-piston-rings-std-set-l24-l26.html Nothing on Rockauto either ill double check my local store. Thanks Zed Head