heyitsrama

Yeah I think baking would be a required step for the interior paint? Would hate for a chip of paint to clog an oil passage.

I had some really good luck with VHT sp127 for aluminum color, soda blasted a CB550 motor I picked up to rebuild, and repainted it with it. For prep I did: Soda blast Water wash Acetone spray (bottle) Primer Heat (halogen lamps) Paint Heat (oven bake) There was really not much paint particles from the paint in the oven, but I did it in my moms old oven before she tossed it out for a new one. I suspect that you could do it at home in the kitchen, just make sure the wife is at work. Now what everyone wants... pictures. I even painted my fan shroud I made the other day with the same paint. It's pretty solid imo. As far as reducing "bling" I usually go for brushed aluminum. This bike has accessories done in that style. http://www.motomucci.com/2014/10/dreamone50-full-shoot-by-patrick-daly.html?m=1

Well it just that the blinky is just like a visual confirmation of the system (if it exists) but something that would interfere with the ignition would be a better deterrent. I think ultimately thats what we would want, something that is going to immobilize the car unless its the owner.

Those blinkies should work nice, but I think using some type of relay that could be removed for the ignition would be cool too Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey when working on the sections where something structural is cut out (frame rail, firewall portions, doglegs) what is done to mitigate the chassis from moving around/bending? That passenger frame rail shot looks completely nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Was there a specific RPM range that it did not like to be within? How do the spark plugs look? Fixing it is where the fun is

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5963306625.html\ I mean if you want a 280 in Cali, it's not bad at all.

I almost finished up my front brakes today, just waiting on some retaining pin hardware. The bleeding was interesting, after changing the master cylinder, and removing the calipers to change the seals, it must have took 1.5 min of pumping to get the fluid to start coming out of the bleeder. I have access to a hand bleeder, ill try removing some more tomorrow after the air has "settled" Kinda scared of the booster failing on me, what happens when it fails? does the depress of the petal get harder? Mine also has that rust between the booster and the master, but I think thats from the old master failing. perhaps I should inspect the booster tomorrow. They seem expensive, $250 to replace? No diaphragm repair?

I always wondered if they stopped at 75 because things after that were fuel injected (at least Z's, we don't care about other cars anyway [emoji57]) Yeah in 2005 they changed a bunch of laws, maybe it was the Govenator...... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

was the block decked or the head resurfaced?

I saw the thumbnail in the iOS app, and thought "Pipe bombs are not garage tools" Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wow looks fast where does the a l28et get oil for the turbo from? Does it require an oil cooler?? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm not sure what your talking about my 260z has 35k on it only. [emoji57][emoji23]

I have not bought door skins, but I bought the firewall engine harness grommet, was really impressed. Mike does mail orders from USPS, just email him before hand. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What happens to the hose that vents from the valve cover? If you moved it to overflow can you tap into that? Or is it all atmosphere? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Is there a chance that you have an adware package installed on the computer? 3/5 times my clients had one installed when they said their computer would get "pop ups", but I was working exclusively on OSX machines. I've never really noticed a reason to stop JS on any computer that I'm using, primary is a MacBook from 2009, never seen performance degradation within Safari, chrome however tends to hog RAM down. Opera Developer edition has a free VPN I thought it was pretty cool, unlimited use too.

Could you post a picture of your ignition system if you have a chance?

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html This guide is pretty good, always gets referred out to. Should be really straight forward. Any chance you'd want to sell the old fuse link boxes? I might wanna go back to them on my 74'. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's why you wanna get good ignition system

That looks really cozy. Nice :^) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It's interesting that this l26 I picked up does not have any of the emissions temperature sensors on it, either it was removed or not included. Did the 260z have a bracket with all the electronics next to the battery? I was reading over that last night, seems like a good upgrade for increased spark. Does it require one of the newer distributors with the gear-like mechanism inside the cap?

I swear granny last night the website was down! This guy lives down the street, I really want to just go over and ask for the parts. >.> But I have to order some more 10guage wire for the headlights. For the positive battery is 2/0 commonly used?

Updates: 12/26 Happy Christmas / Holidays Everyone Ive been slowly working on the Z, my school finals are complete so I have more time to kill on this. So i snapped a exhaust stud (#1), said **** drilling it out because i was off center and messed it all up. Going to Helicoil it at some point, not now, i just put everything back together, it seems like its going to be able to hold. {^thread that has dizzy information, my manual was missing some of this } Working on the harness right now; the distributor on the engine i got was a D614-52 off an automatic 240z, but it was modified with a removed section of points, this confused the crap outta me until i pulled it apart and looked for the clean markings from where the points plate was screwed into the distributor. {^thread reference to the auto dual -> pertronix conversion} I got stuck with the transistorized ignition system thats on the 260z ( i have 2, one with the body, one with the hacked harness i bought). Im reading online that theses electronics crap out randomly (being old electronics). So i do plan to move away from this type of ignition. I was hoping to just get a Pertronix Ignition upgrade, because that seems to be the most reliable. BUT will only do it if i can keep the old tack, i dont have a ballast resistor, so i need to go 3ohm. HOWEVER i am going to leave the wiring in the engine bay for all the little electronics/sensors that the transistorized ignition needs, I just want it close to OEM spec..... It appears that some other person on this form upgraded a dualpoint auto dizzy to use the PT ignition, I think im going to attempt to install this dizzy that i have, then later get the PT Ignition. I need to figure out what to do for the front light terminal connectors, i cant find anything good online, except Vintage Connections (but they are having server issues right now) Information needed: Anyone have a old dizzy single point, that i can upgrade to a pertronix ignition, that they dont need? Is it cool to even run a Dual Point Dizzy, with the second point removed? It seems like it should be fine because the 2nd is just for emmissions... Anyone have a throttle linkage piece that goes from a 260z, to a round top carb? It seems that the old 260z one does not reach all the way... Headlight / Sidelight / Frontlight terminal connections? 4-3way plugs + 2-2wayPlugs i think Dave might have some that he's stashed away...

http://modesto.craigslist.org/cto/5903328070.html I think the black/blue/dark one is the 69, does not look like it has the side vents... some other chassis going cheap, would be cool to take them all, maybe get close to having one complete car...... i wonder what VIN is it

man i did not get to see what yall were talking about. did anyone save a screenshot?