heyitsrama

Yes s Yes there are! "RA2516'020H" "BOTT 001XE" under the piston there is "2688" on onside "REPCO" on the other.... I think that the '020H' indicates that its an overbore? although, when im googling around i cant find anything so far...

Howdy, Attemping to verify the end gaps on the piston has got me confused. I attempted to put an ITM standard bore ring to measure the end gap, its around 1.70mm which is HUGE! I even went to another store, and got another set of ITM rings, and the end gap is still +1.56mm, when i put the standard top on in that came on the motor origionally its closer to 0.38mm, like a can fit maybe a strand of hair into the end gap. Is there something wrong with the brand? Or is that normal for ITM? i cant find any information regarding it online, but I assumed stock bore, ill go with stock end gap size....

You know, that would be a cool car to restore, esp, if it keeps all the scarab parts. I saw a kit converted scarab car in San Jose one time, was purple coloured, but super beat up, I like the rear fenders too.

those pictures look nice too, you shooting on a fixed 50mm?

Yeah I emailed that guy 2 days ago, i think when this thread started, no response yet, but it would be a nice head to have and work on in the intermediate time. I've been reading around, apparently its possible to find early e88 heads that have e31 chambers? However they also have larger valves which is a plus.....

Yeah, its still something that i want to consider doing to the car, I found another shop in the area I'll look into, otherwise im pretty sure i would still save money driving out 45+ miles and getting it worked on. Oregon is gorgeous you guys get some nice air quality out there. I just wanna drive this thing. School starting soon too

I took them to my local shop, he was asking $375 for getting new seats, replacing seats, and cutting them. He was saying that the exhaust valve seat is going to get distorted when the new ones are placed in, so they also need to be cut My buddy took his CRX block and head to get worked on in the southbay, however if im spending the cash on something like that, i would much rather do it to a different head... Does the price seem steep? I mean if it was 80-100 bucks it would be at the shop right now i guess...

I got out the calipers and measured the stem diameter. They seem like they are within the upperbound (not super worn out) for what is allowed per the service manual. There was very little runout throughout the multiple measurements that i took along the length of the stem, because of this i would believe that the tapering within the guide would also be at a minimum. However guessing is bad, and ill need to locate a tiny bore measuring tool... this is getting kinda fun

Yeah, been labelling everything // individually bagging stuff // as things get torn down. The majority of the parts for a rebuild are here in a box, need to get a few bolts however. It was not my intension to start refresh and replace the valve-train, only really whatever is necessary to get me by. If this head need seats to be healthy for the next couple of years, its worth the effort to do it now... I'll take a more detailed dive into all the work that would need to be done on this. It seems that I'm leaning toward getting these brass seats removed... however... I dont see this notch in my e88 yet. perhaps i need to get a better glance at things, you happen to have a larger image of that? I reverse imaged searched google and did not locate anything. guess now i should consider getting a carbide bit and match the intake and exhaust ports out

The biggest issue that I had removing the oilpan from the block was that it was so old that it became mated to the block surface. I had to take like a thin metal scraper, (like when you have to take gum off under a desk ) and wedge it to pop the old one off. I think pulling them out will be easier to service however.... unless there is limited access to tools..

the struggle is real here on a student budget... dont really want to start eating to assets that I've saved up.... Ill try to shoot over to the local machineshop tomorrow and ask them how much, was ~100$ with seats you supplied? Diseazd you in North Bay Area? You going to the carshow tomorrow morning in Danville? http://www.ferraripacific.org/content.aspx?page_id=87&club_id=26666&item_id=276231

You know, you might be able to weld up an awning to the garage area and get another spot to put the DD. At least that way you don't have to give any of them up. I like the blue and red one.

It's an E88 from a L26. I finished the exhaust valves pretty happy with the end results. Im slightly reluctant to do it with a cordless drill. I dont want to apply too much pressure to the seat, and in return enlarge the seat size. Rats really? i was hoping someone would say "lap that and stop being a lil baby" Hypothetically speaking, if i was to keep the brass seats i should lap them down? In my leak down test, i don't recall of them being an issue......... i need to find my notebook and double triple check.

Howdy Yall, Finished my summer course yesterday, got back into the garage to get some stuff sorted out with the Z. So I cleaned out the head with my soda blaster, went through washed it up several times, cleaned oil passages, and the top of the combustion chamber. I also cleaned the valve face, and above the seat up to the stem. Soda blasted the intake ones really well, for the exhaust i used a red scotchbride, with some WD40 in a drill to get the same area clean. I started lapping cylinder one, the exhaust side was fine, makes good contact now, but what i realized after i finished the intake was that it appears that the brass was slightly removed from the seating. I mean this makes sense because thats what lapping is doing, but is this going to harm the seat? Pic related, its the intake valve | the lapped valve seat | the non-lapped seat.

Alright: All parts are here for the rebuild, waiting on the valve spring compressor to come in the mail, then will clean everything off. Waiting on a radiator, started making an ABS plastic relay box, and finish off wiring. On the downside my pops decided it was time to take all the popcorn off the ceilings of the house, and to repaint everything, so thats going to eat into my time. >.> its also almost finals time for summer session at school

yeah its completely gone, hopefully its still in surface helping people out

Anyone have a driver side chrome mirror? Does not need to be super great shape, just don't want the police to bother me

Dude they charge too much for their stuff, a 91 honda wiper motor (26$) and 3 relays was 68 bucks, i nope and walked out. taking out the honda motor is a pain too, that 4th bolt on the lower side is a knuckle buster... pay a price for it to look nice i guess.

Alright, I guess I should keep this thing updated, it would be super cool to be able to read. So far whats been done is Motor torn down, washed, waiting for bearing inspection (no visible wear) Chipped Harmonic Balancer (small chip like 1/3inch), pulled replacement today from a L28 Painted mounts / Oil pan Started working on repairing harness i picked up (going to integrate relays {front and rear} / replace the fuse links) I need to : Find a radiator (eBay? 2-3 layer?) Finish measurements Order rebuild parts Finish painting block Tear down head / Clean So i went to a my dads friends local milling shop, and the spec of the cylinder bore was like 0.0004-0.0008 off maybe i was not properly using the tool, but this seems SUPER straight? Almost too good to be true.... Im beginning to think that the only issue that was present was seating of the piston rings, and probably exhaust valve seat / seal. \ What to y'all end up doing for radiator hoses on an aftermarket aluminum rad? Anyone have tips to get rid of spider bros, theres like some as big as my palm in my car I know everyone likes pics so here have some I was at the junk yard the other day looking for a honda wiper motor, i look down at a car walking by, checking out if the motor was accessible, i turn around and this fire was brewing! turned out there was a fire at the recycling plant across the road.

Electronic relay that goes to solenoid for starter / fuel pump (i hear that some people bring their own fuel pump {seems like a pain in the butt}) relay is hooked up to a arduino micro controller which has a bluetooth fob on it, requires authentication from your phone bluetooth, or a bluetooth fob keychain. Its been in the pipeline for like 3-4 years, my buddy wants one in his CRX and Miata. Maybe once i get this car sorted out ill be able work on it... (>.>)

https://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/5652302421.html Referencing these wheels http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/autos/z/1977-datsun-280z-zap-edition-yellow-original-80k-1977-000-000-000.00-texas-united-states-3968.html it looks like it could be one? Who's in Wa? someone make some $$ of this Regards, Rama

if you consider the amount of things you can learn from working on the car, i think $1.5k is reasonable price... (plus things its going to need to fix it up) was the car sitting outside? you might want to look at www.zhome.com and go to the what to look for sections, and the common rust sections. Might be able to get flexible on the price. basically go to the bank and buy it.

looks nice, reminds me of my Z

Yeah only going to be able to find out this information as the strip-down continues, a little bit hesitant to start the tear down because of the CB550 thats litterally infront of me that i have to finish off..... but i dont wanna waste time either. On the plus side, i bought (and built) tools that i needed for the honda, that should be usable with this L-series rebuild. I mean thats until i can find the pesos to get a DatsunWerks k24 head... Need to spend more time at cougar bars.. Any brand of gasket set you guys recommend? I need to start making a list of things that i need to get to refurbish this...... I need to find information regarding the front part of the wiring harness, i think the dash section is present, and i would just have to deal with the front... [ SORRY FOR THE $^!# PHOTO TOO MANY SPIDER BROS IN THERE ] EDIT*** Does anyone know if the harness from 73 and 74 are interchangeable? Based on information from http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring it seems so.... If not whats the name of those 12 and 14 pin connectors that are green//brown/black?

ill do it first thing in the morning, im glad i did not put it back on the stands, although i wont get my hopes too high?