heyitsrama

For reference, these.

Actually I think I fixed it, there are 2 standoffs on the back side of the volt meter, the looks like 2 long hex shafts. They were loose from the volt meter. I opened it up and it looks like the voltage is stable now. i shot some electronics cleaner into the potentiometer for good measure. It stopped waving at me.

I have a voltmeter that reads pretty stable if the circuit is isolated, but when the ground for the fuel level is connected it starts to be flutter around. Anyone seen something like this before? https://youtube.com/shorts/YMjUsnmcalg?feature=share

@lcord, just a heads up some members had issues with the replacement booster they got from their local parts store. I sent mine out to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose California to be rebuilt, if you go that route, have them powder coat it too, it will come back to you mint.

Borrow the OERs from him and let him borrow your nice SUs. :^)

I had a buddy come over a couple of weeks ago with his work Tacoma, he said it was struggling up hills in SF. So I started looking around and it seemed to have a misfire. We started isolating coils to see if that was related and it looked like a coil was bad… the plugs were old and corroded, so I suggested we change them out while we flip the coils around to isolate the issue further. When installing one of the new spark plugs it would not screw into the head…. I look down into the spark plug hole and there was little bits of epoxy everywhere, the spark plug hole was cross threaded, and all the threads were removed, the new spark plug just span inside the hole. apparently some dude at my buddy’s work is learning to be a mechanic and he was the last guy working on the truck! I’m not sure how he managed to **** it up so bad, but he did. Maybe he was using a impact gun to install the spark plugs…. Anyway another reason to not trust backyard mechanics….. except us 😂😂😂

Ever figure this one out? I used to have the same issue when I had load on the electronics from the fans I was running, i switched to a OEM clutch fan because it scared me. 🙈

IIRC its the unleaded fuel that required the use of a steel valve seat. But if you go to a larger valve wont you need to modify the seats anyway? Or is the intention to just cut out the old seats a little more? I think larger valve would also need the block to have a relief cut done to it..... There's a good book you should look at `how to modify your nissan/datsun OHC engine`.

> I didn’t realize my question was so ridiculous People just cautious about letting the vast amount of knowledge we have here be used in a way to hurt someone s30 community. if you don’t use those security screws it’s going to be easy to defeat the steering wheel lock. 123ignitions have a Bluetooth security setting that kills the ignition.

Congrats cliff! No stress is well worth it!

@ArcticFoxCJ When I was taking art classes in college the professor said to get medium quality tools vs the cheap stuff... Being that there is more space to grow in your ability with the medium grade stuff.... (Not to say the flux core is cheap)I think you can learn much more when you are not fighting the blow through, or worried about how much heat is in the effected zone, this will enable you to feel more comfortable at a quicker pace if that makes sense. I currently use a Lincoln 3200 HD, but I had my eyes on a Tig welder from Everlast for even finer detail stuff. Everlast might have something that fits your application. It was @grannyknot here is the thread, some nice info about welding in that thread. That copper magnet looks good to use, does it apply pressure between the panels? I use these ones too https://www.harborfreight.com/welding/welding-supplies/welding-lugs-clamps/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html

Maybe your future son-in-law has a gas welder you can use for this... I wonder if changing the thickness for the flux core wire would allow you to reduce the heat going into the metal. Another thing you can try to do is make a heat sink of out of copper, I beat a copper pipe into a flat section that i clamp to the back of the metal, this allows some of the heat to be absorbed into the copper. How much more welding do you have left? I assume the rest of the car? Might be worth while to pickup a gas-compatible welder. Checkout the panels after i ground them down, I used a finger sander from harbor freight, great for the tight spots. Also imma just say it now, **** Airgas, go to a Praxair, or even better a mom and pop shop. My local Airgas has a bunch of shady sales people, overcharging for gas. This 80 CFM tank should get you around 4 hours of trigger time, https://store.cyberweld.com/shielgascyl8.html the refill for me is ~60-70 bucks at Praxair, I bought the tank locally because I dont want praxair to go out of business and ill be stuck with airgas.... That cyberweld tank with the fill is probably the cheapest thing you'll find, but call local and see... if you do go down that route.

I don’t use a spot welder (although I’m open to buying one) rather I drill holes in the plate then use shielded mig welding to “spot” weld it into place. What kind of welder do you have? Does it support adding shielding gas? Your welds will come out cleaner. Someone on this site convinced me to switchwhen I was working on my floor pans, and I never went back to flux. I think it was Grannyknot. watch how this guy works, he has some Japanese cars he’s working on. https://youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw

If you don’t have access to a welder/brazer the next best thing is JBWeld…

Wow that paint looks very nice! Welcome to the club 🙂

Does your haltech unit have a PDM? I just found out about them when I was redoing my wiring on my car. Its a bit out of my budget (plus my car does not have an ECU) but the PDM systems seem to really simplify the wiring on the car.

I run a n42 head with some flattop pistons on my L26 felpro headgasket.... Its been a couple years but the motor still works... has not self destructed yet.... I need to do an oil analysis at somepoint, i think i ****ed up the piston ring gaps.... I was a broke college kid when i put that motor together 😞 When i got the head it seemed like it was already shaved flat. You can find some more information about it under my `Flying Z` thread. Funny story i paid ~1 bitcoin for that head!

Yarb you're in Florida right? Why would you need European companies? I'm sure you can find something within the USA....

Cash or bank wire sounds a little sketchy to me…. these guys might be able to help you out, from the looks of it they do some quality work. maybe they have a spare panel… https://m.facebook.com/dcwclassic/

I think t3 just announced that they have both inner tie rods for $100. I saw an add a couple days ago. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/inner-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Looks like those sway bar bushings need to be replaced too. I run KYB and progressive eibach springs on my 260z, i dont like how the car feels as i exit turns on the track, the rear feels ambiguous... I hear really good things about the konis, if the accountant can accommodate it, i think it would be worth it. I got my KYBs on sale on rockauto for super cheap, it was like $30 a corner IIRC. I think I need to move to a proper adjustable coilover setup in order to get my car to handle the way i want.... I think the covid lockdown is worse in Canada, maybe that's contributing to the lack of response...

I use an Milwaukee impact for removal, it makes disassembly of the car way faster. But the rule for me is that when I assemble it back up, it has to be done by hand, and torqued to spec. No bolt allowed on the car without torquing it down, I've had too many instances of "oh $^!# was it torqued?" I also don't use the electric impact to install wheels back on, I told my buddy this at the track when he wanted to borrow my tool. "Dont torque it down with the impact, I don't trust it" So he torques it down with the impact, then has to come back into the pits after a few laps because he felt the wheel was loose.

Just a note, be careful if you stick something into the top of the cowl trying clean debris from within rubber drain tube. Ive had one of those tube tear on me, last time I checked they were expensive. >.>

Yes you can do it in your driveway, you should use the search function and locate some of the old threads about this. I personally got rid of the strap and replaced it with a RT style mount, I used the original lower diff mount and the cone style bushing.

got a welder? Weld a nut on the end of it, then use a regular breaker bar.

I just did this a couple months ago. It really helps if you have another person. I left a floorjack w/ some wood on the bottom of the oilpan, then lowered the motor till my pops and I could slide the transmission right into place. Last time i did it myself and chewed into the input bushing a bit by using a bolt to pull the motor and bell-housing together. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63795-shifter-rattle/?do=findComment&comment=618934&_rid=29613