heyitsrama

You can blow out the hardlines from the front to the back, i cut a hole in a Coke bottle (cant use Pepsi, it wont work) then put one end of a rubber hose into the hole, and the other on the tank side of the hardline. From the engine bay I put some alcohol into the hardline, then blow it out with compressed air back to the soda bottle. If you pull the tank you might wanna replace all the fuel hoses. I'm surprised no one has a concrete thread of the size/length of hose to address the rear evap system. I was talking about it to another Z owner, and had to refer to them to multiple threads with partial information.... Maybe someone has the information or a link.

On bumps I usually find sway bar end links can be an issue. I’ve also found that when the giant nut that holds the strut inside the strut tube loosens itself it will make a similar sound. Usually this can be heard at higher speed over bumps.

AHHH! I see what you mean by the casting process. Yeah that would be pretty swell. I could have an extra dome light for when this one fails.... (hopefully never) Common Capt. you know you wanna take that old heavy hood off and get some carbon goodness on there 🙂 I used 3mm hardware and some eye terminals to make contact with the “plated” material. I also added the rubber washer that came with the switch and it’s pretty snug now. Tested it out in the car and it works. Just waiting on the LEDs. I went back and added some heat shrink near the terminals just for safety. Keihin carbs on this cb500 actually. It’s not too bad to work on. Dialing in the SU kinda taught me how they work, at least how to approach it. Need more stuff to tinker with, this project was supposed to take longer.

From some web-searching I just did: I guess that's not an option... Advertising networks must love working with Shaq, quite a familiar face. I've not tried `Yoo-hoos` I'll keep my eyes peeled for it, I've been drinking optimum nutrition double chocolate, i think i have at least 3 months supply left....

I was thinking the hood of a car might be a good place to start, it’s large enough that’s it’s gonna be a pain in the arse if you don’t finish ha! First you would have to make a negative mold of the current hood, then you would come in and lay new material to great the new hood inside that mold. Seems straightforward. As far as the translucency goes, don't you have to coat carbon fiber or it starts to degrade? I see "cloudy" carbon fiber, and its almost always when it's not painted over. Seems like that it would not be TOO big of a problem. Maybe the tech was just old when those parts were made and modern resins are more resilient to cloudyness. Ah the bike, I got it a little closer yesterday, I was able to get some what of an idle, but I found that the battery died while I was running it, so I started digging into the alternator circuit and found two questionable wires that I replaced. The next issue is the tachometer, which need to be fixed because it’s “zeroed” at 1900 RPM, I can’t really tune it because I can’t see where is is. Parts have been ordered, so back to the Z while we wait The replacement dome switch is here. I attempted to install it and it works well. There is an issue that I can foresee which is how loose the white plastic is inside the body, but I’m not sure how loose they are from factory. It might rattle around when driving. Also the copper wires from the switch can’t be soldered to the aluminum parts of the body. Maybe some type of glue can be used? Or a copper rivet?

I e been trying to lay off the beer after work when I’m in the garage... I started drinking chocolate milk. Just need something to take the edge off. 😂😂😂 have you tried jazz? Not all of it is great, sometimes you can find some fire. https://kcsm.org

Oil pressure sender? See comments below.

@AK260 actually this is something that I would like to do, it needs more “ooofm” when you hammer the throttle. Perhaps dropping the jet down 1/6 of a turn at a time? Or do I have to start messing with needle profiles? @240260280 I want to match that graph, what kind of setup are you running? 😬

@chaseincats not to derail the discussion y’all are having, but what kind of measurements do you get?

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/auto-all-manual-to-c-hls30-46000 Add this site to your bookmarks. Top is drivers.

Actually I have not, mold making looks like an interesting process, do you have any recommendations for reading material? I wanted to start poking around working with fiberglass after I shattered half my BRE air dam hitting a pipe on the highway. there’s a load of stuff that I need to do this year, I need to get this damn cb500 running and possibly sold, start working on the white Z that I have (might be a can of worms). So much time, these little repairs I’m doing on the Z because I can’t get the damn bike to hold idle, the carbs are being super finicky. I’ll have to add learn composite materials and molds to that list.

To be honest @Captain Obvious i have no idea how it works, some people say its the UV that is catalyzing the peroxide. https://www.quora.com/What-is-happening-in-terms-of-a-chemical-process-when-hydrogen-peroxide-is-used-to-restore-discoloured-Lego Others say its the bromine in the plastic that is being broken out of the plastic. https://hackaday.com/2017/11/03/yellowing-the-plastic-equivalent-of-a-sunburn/ I would agree that UV light is damaging for prolonged exposure (paints, truckers arms, etc.) in fact the reason why I only have one white lens is that the other one disintegrated from exposure to the elements, my car was in the California sun for ~15 years before I started working on it, the paints messed up on the drivers side from the exposure. Last night i turned off the flashlight because i did not want to over-discharge the lithium cell by leaving it on the whole night. I noticed that in the morning the plastic was a bit de-yellowed, but not like it was out in the sun. I also noticed that after leaving it in the sun, there would be loads of bubbles around the lens while it was in the peroxide. I think the UV might just be expediting the process, it looks like UV-A light can be used as a catalyst for to breakdown H2O4 -> 2[H20] + O2, and the O2 is what provides the cleaning power for us.http://newfrontchem.iqstorm.ro/upload/10-NFC-23-2_Cataldo.pdf I'm not sure how/why oxygen cleans so effectively.

You can get a connector from vintage connections, and piece together something. It's what I had to do with my 260z. You'll be spending a good amount of time looking at a wiring diagram. It looks like the harness is kinda hacked up. So you might need some 6.3mm fittings and 4mm fittings.

contact this guy https://www.instagram.com/vital_partz/ he restores them

So far it looks pretty good, I let it sit all day in the sun to use the free UV radiation. Put it back outside for the rest of the day, I’m pretty happy with the results.

@Captain Obvious thx for that I’ll order them, I prefer the dirty JDM yellow lights. I switched all the exterior lights to LED except the license plates because the cool white looks out of place. Trying to de-yellow the plastic, I cleaned it off with some purple power and a toothbrush to remove the grime. The solution is hydrogen peroxide, and the UV light is one that I used to locate AC leaks. I threw on a rechargeable lithium battery so I can leave it on for several hours. Shall see in the morning. Hopefully it’s still there.

Welcome to the forum! Is that hot glue on whatever its connected to? We really like photos on this forum. Photos that are a bit clearer will be helpful, and are ones that we prefer. We also like photos of shiny stuff. 🤤 That might be what is labeled on the wiring diagram on the factory service manual section BE-5 as a "Rheostat". See that knob in on the right? Whats that connected to? It should be to dim the interior lights.

From how you describe the car it seems like there’s not much left to do with it (as far as restoration is concerned). Is there something that makes driving it difficult? I would think the steering might be a bit heavy.. (electronic power assist might be able to help with this). I’m sure you can find new ways to enjoy the car.

My 74 has the same style IIRC. I should double check, is this also a "warm" LED? Have a part #? 😬

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-first-quality-Dome-Light-Lens-LED-Conversion-included/303820288085?hash=item46bd19b055:g:Hc4AAOSwdjdaDxnV

@Captain ObviousIt looks like the LED you went with is back in stock Thread: Similar part # but described as 38mm. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/3710-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon-38mm-car/2160/5267/ Any chance we can get those pictures that rotted off photobucket? Did you change the map light as well? figure might as well fix it all once.

Negative on the plastic lens, i had to find mine online, i bought one ( and it was broken) They tend to deteriorate in the heat, so you might be better off getting a (newer one) I want to refurbish this one, its a bit yellowed like old video game consoles. The price on these parts has been ~30 for just the plastic lens and $100 for the whole assembly... Might be able to 3d print them if i can find a white transparent ABS material.

Mine sits at about ~10.3 with the choke on to warm up, 12 on idle after warming up, 14.5-14.8 on load ~3k RPM, 14.7-14.9 @ 80-100MPH, cant get it over 100 it pops out of gear 😞 Running SM needles on a 4screw SU.

@Captain Obvious I was just looking for `push toggle switch on-off` and this came up. The problem is trying to filter out all the round style ones, or the ones that have the solder leads in the wrong spot. I ordered the ebay weather proof ones because of the cost and it was pretty close to what i was looking for. I agree with you about the weather proofing, its totally not required for this. We shall see in a couple days i suppose, otherwise back to searching... There are no stores around me that carry these kinds of electronic products, there used to be one in Berkley California but it closed recently. https://www.berkeleyside.com/2020/12/03/lashers-electronics-berkeley-business-closing-covid-19-coronavirus 😕

Some people on this forum like these exedy clutches https://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-for-1970-1975-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-2-4L-2-6L-6CYL/154267177730?fits=Model%3A240Z|Make%3ADatsun&epid=15034364931&hash=item23eb0a5302:g:UssAAOSwHExbcgTx You can locate some threads about them via the search functionality. I'm not sure if the linked kit has EVERYTHING, it looks close though. Can also use Courtesy Nissan https://www.courtesyparts.com/ to find smaller parts. I need to swap mine out too, the clutch i have in there was an unknown one that i tossed in when assembling the drivetrain, I can feel it chatter after really hard driving. The flywheel was one of those things to do "while your down there", along with all the u-joints. ohhhhh the things i should have done when i had it all apart the first time. 😞