heyitsrama

Its Wednesday, but i work from home, found this sick album

1. The fronts should be easier. 2. Spindle pins in the rear can be a gotcha, should look up some threads on that, and look into getting a removal tool to assist with it. if you use poly bushings on the tension control arm get a rubber bushing as a backing, sometimes they can be too stiff. control arm bushings are asymmetrical (there's a recent thread on this) inspect the control arms for cracking. Paint stuff while you're down there. 3. diff mounts would be nice, some use RT style mounts. I used the oem bushing, and the RT mount with a cone bushing to remove the OEM strap. 4. More vibrations from poly, although you cant find some of the OEM rubber bushings anymore..... I got the kit from Energy Suspension, you can find $20 dollar off coupons for AutoZone sometimes. 5. If your accountant lets you, i hear good things about the Koni Yellows. I use KYB struts, kinda wish i got the Koni yellows, i was a poor college student at the time. ha 6. I did not drop my subframe, i did one side at a time. I used a piece of wood to hold up the motor if i had it off the mounts. 7. My bushings looked OK, i did not remove them. I cant remember ? I really like the RT mount https://technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html I cut off 0.5" off the tip of the poly mount, i think @Diseazd recommended it but i could be wrong.

Might be off topic but, can issues/leaks with this system cause a higher idle at idle? When pull to a stop after driving around the idle is noticeably higher (1-200rpm), if i give the throttle a blip, the idle returns to normal. I've changed out the return springs thinking that was related but no change.

Do you not need to run lock washers with those copper nuts?

I’m going to guess, “z car depot”?

on a side note. holy moly that Z sounds great. Do you have more information about the motor? whats the aluminum tank inside the engine bay on the passenger side?

@panchovisa you can use VLC to open almost any media file. I've been using it for almost 15 years now, its a great open source tool. https://www.videolan.org/vlc/

+1 on the co2/argon blend, someone advised me to use that from this forum, my welds are way cleaner. I have a Lincoln 3200 HD for my mig work it performs very well, but i'm thinking of getting a Everlast 210 EXT for Tig work, plus the AC/DC will let me switch between metals and do other work. There are some Everlast units that can do MIG/TIG/Plasma cutting, they seem like a good deal if you are looking for one machine that can do a lot of work. Consider taking a class at your local community college, I was able to learn a lot, and got plenty of time under the hood (saved a lot of money on material).

You might have blockage inside the line. In the past I’ve cleaned out lines by using compressed air. I would remove the brake cylinder off the line to avoid getting debris inside the cylinder.

Anything that is under the dash should be done before the dash is installed, it can be a pain in the arse to get down there. You did not mention HVAC... Another bay area member nice to see, i think thats 2 new people in the past month. did you plan on doing body work yourself?

dave what rear end are you running on the car? 3.7?

Sounds healthy , how far did you get into the RPMs?

I created brackets that bolt into the two holes above the unit as well as a bracket in the front. check out

@jitenshakun did you change the springs on the car too?

@grannyknot its quite possible, but the shocks should have less than 1500miles on them; Although the use of a lowering spring on the KYB's are not recommended, and probably contribute to faster wear...

I’ve noticed on my Z when I go over imperfections on the road and on some bumps there’s a tendency for the rear suspension to bounce. It’s a little annoying, I was wondering how much of this was contributed from using KYB struts on eibach lowering springs. is it that the KYB strut is not able to handle the rapid compression of the progressive springs in the rear of the car? Could it be something else? Sway bar too tight?

I don't think you would experience overheating with the n42 block, however this is getting outside of my scope of knowledge, I don't have the hands on experience to talk about these topics with authority. You will find build threads on www.hybridz.org that would have way more knowledge, it might be worthwhile to search for some threads there. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=n42+turbo+site%3Awww.hybridz.org&ia=web If the turbo motor you picked up is in a healthy state, i would be inclined to either: A. run it as is, or B. perform a leakdown test, change out some seals, and run it as is.

Although his option was not requested, i would listen to @Zed Head , hes never led me astray. All jokes aside, I think you would be better off running the turbo motor as is. from https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/ `The F54 has "siamesed" cylinders meaning that instead of coolant flowing between all the cylinders as on earlier models they are connected between 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 with cast webbing for more rigidity. In addition there isn't a special "turbo block", all Datsun did to make the F54 a turbo motor was to replace the flattop pistons with dished ones to lower compression and add a turbo head. ` but you know you said you did not want a turbo motor, so its better to just send it to one of us and continue your NA build

I like the ones with the hose attachments, makes is easier to get into those tight spots. I'm not sure if there is much ROI in these, it seems that the ~20-30$ range has good products, that last a long time. for example this rockauto one What $75 dollar ones were you looking at? ?

Reposting attached HEIC as JPEG.

Count me in.

Wow so this is what they look like new huh.. very nice ?

Wow maybe I should fix my seat positioning, my knees are way too high... sometimes being tall sucks.

IIRC Close ratios have 1 tab near the output shaft. Yours appears to have 2 but its covered in first image....