heyitsrama

Howdy! I have a 260z with 4screw SU's, im using a choke cable out of a 73" 240z and i find that the cable tends to bind, I really have to yank the crap outta the cable and it does not move much. I came across this video: and this guy has such a smooth movement of the choke! Is that because the choke is a different year? Has anyone replaced the choke with a non-oem replacement? I've not been able to find information about this. Regards,

shhhhhh dont let all the secrets out, it wont be fun reading old threads then.

Looks great! is the block painted?

@leonv What would you do in this circumstance? Do your eibach springs bind under load? I'm not sure that a 3/4in (280z isolator) or (0.7in zcar/thezstore spacer) would be enough to get the ride height in the rear to where i would want it. I think i would want at least an inch of height back. All that considered, it seems like getting the correct 240z spring setup might be the best thing to do as, i would be able to get more comfort for a car that is really being built primarily for street use, with occasional track use.. Sorry for bothering you about this, but it seems that your one of the only documented sources for this information online ?

It seems that the rear strut insulator for a 260-280z is NLA everything online is used, maybe this is why the spacer exists....

@LeonV it seems that changing out the rear strut isolator to a 280z is more cost effective than replacing all the springs, I’m reading in other threads that it should account for 3/4” of increase in height. would keeping these 280z springs mean I would retain a more “sportier” feel in the suspension?

@LeonV have you made any changes to your setup? I have a 12/73 260z and I put what I believe are 280 tokico springs on the car. the car is too damn low! I can’t even get my low profile jack under it! I used to be able to just slide under without a jack! I’m not sure how to approach this. I saw that there are metal spacers that are available... https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z#&gid=1&pid=3 which should take up 0.7” of the 1” perch difference, unless there is a 1” option somewhere...

I've been using both their clutch master and brake master for the past couple of years. I've had good experiences w/ Beck-Arnley parts after being suggested to use them from other forum members.

Still need one? This one has a braided hose.

I repacked it just now, it’s much more quiet. Thanks for the advise, the strap technique made it straight forward @zKars, @grannyknot yeah I had to ask for a hand, make it a whole lot easier. now just gotta figure out why the blinkers don’t turn off after making a turn ha.

I have an early 260z and wanted to know about this upper steering bearing. I hear this annoying squeak coming from the bearing right now, but i cant seem to find any replacement options (NLA) 48910-23100 #5 on http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column it seems super dirty, if i cant replace it, is it possible to remove the inner housing and clean+ repack it? it looks like some of the balls are missing as the distance between the balls are not consistent. I found this thread by @Captain Obvious but the images are no longer available.

@bingo can you take a picture of the slot that you cut? did you ever get that issue with the pull addressed? I had that on my system it was due to an air bubble on the passenger side, i rebleed the system and it was good. I'm still on the fence about upgrading the calipers. I dont feel that the brakes are the limiting factor on my setup, id rather push till i start noticing the fade, then look at upgrades... With that being said, Ido think I could get more performance by changing out the rubber lines (not sure of their age) and upgrading the pad probably hawk. I contacted Raymond at ApexBrakes (was suggested in another thread) but I'm not sure if the price is justified compared to rubber setup, any opinions @Jeff G 78? Edit** I ordered SS lines, need to find pads.

definitely not the way to do it, but i've used a large spark plug to plug up a heater hose...

my 73 has the plainer silver disc. ?

Have you considered putting this car on bringatrailer?

If you want some braided hoses, jbugs in Southern California has a bunch all in nice metric sizes too, i think they give you a discount on the first order through them if you sign up for news letter.

Marty, are you using S12W vented calipers, or the s12+8 vented caliper? Have you upgraded the master cylinder? With your braided brake line do you bypass the S hardline fitting on the caliper? and go directly from the caliper to the steel hardline? I bring this up because i was just under the car changing out springs and ran into the issue of having to remove the s-hardline from the caliper in order to get the disk out. Kinda annoying, but the rubber lines for the car look like they need to be swapped out, just want to see if i make it more service-friendly. ? I ordered s12w calipers from autozone, (they have 20% off right now) but was debating on keeping it all OEM and using hawkpads after hearing about ITS 240z's using stock setups...... seems like its really easy to throw cash at this, and not come up with a solution that fits the use-case.

Wow I wish i had this when I was repairing the floor pan/ seats.

been working on the car all day, i replaced both the upper and lower thermostat housing, the new lower had to bypass the intake manifold because it was plugged off. plugged off the connector that goes near the fuel filter. Little to no smoke at startup, drove the car around for a couple miles, pulls pretty good, might need a carb tune... cylinders 4-5-6 were all carboned up, which sounds like there *might* be a leak in the intake..... Still need to do go to my buddies place and do a leakdown test to make sure. Cooling system holds 10psi of pressure.

I grabbed one local,the guy who sold it to me used to have a 71. Its in pretty good condition! Upper, Lower, with a 190*f nissan thermostat $25 he was telling me about this pinhole that formed in his intake manifold coolant channel that was causing white smoke in the exhaust..... was in a old datsun pickup. shall do the test tomorrow in the morning. Anyone have opinions of paper gaksets vs RTV//HondaBond?

I located a leak at the thermostat housing, I think that due to a damaged surface the radiator hose is not able to get a good seal. after repairing this I’ll continue with another pressure test. theres only one local guy on Craigslist with a thermostat outlet. thanks for your input @madkaw appreciate you. ?

It’s been raining all day I did manage to refill the radiator, and watched it burp. I’ll test out the pressure tomorrow. i would think it would run really rough, but it’s pretty smooth...

So its probably a head gasket, but i just wanted to ask around. My cars been sitting for a bout a year; ive been getting it back up and running after replacing the heater core.... I noticed yesterday when i was idling the car for about 20-30min there was a good amount of thin white smoke coming out of the exhaust; smelt more of fuel my initial thought was that there could have been condensation build up from sitting for so long, no biggie lets just warm it up, and drive it. After a certain amount of time it stopped too, which was a good sign. Today when i was draining the coolant upon removing the rad cap, i stuck my finger in it, and realized there was little to no coolant in the rad; so i removed the plugs and Cylinders 1-3 have carbon on the pistons, 4-6 have clean pistons with fouled plugs; which makes me think coolant in the cylinders.... But why 4-6? its a L26 block with a N42 head. An early e46 manifold with a 4 screw carb; I changed the oil, there was no water in the oil (ran the car for 3-4 min before changing) I realize now that i think about it the water gauge never moved, i figured there was a little corrosion on the wire, it might be that, but perhaps the coolant level was too low..... I supposed a leakdown test will give me more information. Could this be from a leak in the manifold runner?

im late to this, but my trick is that i get a good open end on the shaft, then i used a bar between the ujoint to spin the shaft an break the nut.

TLDS: ill check it out, maybe can find one for a good price.... really want to hear it before i spend the money, i guess it good to have a backup for long distance driving etc.