heyitsrama

I don't believe you have to get smog on 280's in the lone star state, earlier cars are lighter, late 260 / 280s have minor changes to structure but are heavier. The best car you can get is one that is not structurally damaged, with minimal rust - checkout "hidden rust areas" http://www.zhome.com Personally I like early 260s, you get the benefit of a "lower" weight (not as low as 69/70 240) but you get a little bit of an upgraded interior + can use any 240 part as the chassis is the same. These cars are 40+ years owning them is not expensive if you do the work yourself, but if you dont have the time, then you can always pay to play. With that being said stuff will break and need to be replaced, but there is support to get parts on any of the cars, the motors for the most part are pretty solid, I rebuilt mine as a stock rebuild, was a fun summer project. getting a 2+2 is not a problem in the USA, I'm not sure why you would want the extra seats, maybe for kids, but I prefer being limited to 1 passenger. any mods you want to do depends on how much time and money you want to spend. brake kits / hubs can go for hundreds of bucks to thousands. I dont mind 4 lugs, but just try to get a 15"-16" wheel the tire selection will be better. Look at the classified section there are a couple Zs for sale.

This car was burned down in a trailer fire. https://gasmonkeygarage.com/gas-monkeys-280z-goes-up-in-flames/ EDIT* @NVZEE beat me to it ha

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 here are all the parts on da car with the numbers. ?

While on the topic of brake boosters, I got mine rebuilt from Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, Ca. ($120), but I wanted to know how peoples brakes behave, it seems that I have to hit the brakes once to "pressurize" the line, then on the second depress I get an actual feeling as if the brakes are operating. Would this be something that is caused by the way the boosters are designed, or is there something else that I should be looking at in the brake system? I've rebuilt all the calipers/drums, but am running some no-name pads. ?️‍♂️

That’s the one! Are you okay with parting out the front fender/door one from the set? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Im volunteering at Laguna Seca on Wednesday at the registration booth in the paddocks, and ill be there on Sunday as well. Hopefully ill have my Z with me :0

Sure! Post them when you get a chance ?

Hey, I'm looking for a driver side fender trim guard / molding, its that aluminum portion I also need the black rubber part for the driver door, can be from any year. I think a passenger side would also work. Regards

Running a custom harness is not bad, when I got my car the front engine harness was snipped, I wanted to use the OEM under dash connectors so i sourced a harness that was repairable. All you really need is a voltmeter, new wiring in various lengths, crimp / pin removal tools, connectors ( www.vintageconnections.com has very nice stuff) you will also need a wiring diagram that you can trace out for the car, which should be easy to get your hands on. I lay mine out on the floor and just trace the lines I want out, I also took the liberty to modify the harness to have alternator upgrades/voltmeter/emergency switch bypass all inside the loom. 260zs truely are the bastard children. After the modifications were done I placed it back into the car, and tested it out, worked with no issues. It takes time however, I have time, but no money [emoji22]... also learned the electrical system inside and out so that was cool.

Referencing the manual indicates that there is no relay lined for it, it pulls power off the b/w line which is switched power, then runs power all the way to the pump in the rear. Placing a relay in that system would be ideal. @motorman7 I have a spare airbox for that style SU if you need one. ?

“My mind is telling me yes, but my wallet, my wallet is telling me nooooooooooo” Hahaha yeah I was looking through those online, I like the idea of adjustable flash rate.

Howdy, Was getting another revision of my wiring harness down, pulled the trigger on some LEDs for the chassis, just wanted to share results. I ordered from SuperBrightLeds.com. 4x 1057 LED (blinkers for turn signals + rear blinkers) : 1156-CW18-T: Cool White 4x 1056 LED (Tail light + Reverse) : 1157-W26-CBT: White 8x 67 LED (Body + Taillight [two spare, I like the older color for the license plates]) : 67-CW12-G: Cool White I need to get the flasher working, debating to get either https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/KAL50FB6R00/KAL50FB6R00-ND/1646199 or https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY to add load to the line. I think that it might be possible to just add the resistors under the dashboard or mounted on the driver kick panel. Should be straight forward to install. Leaning toward the amazon one, the price point seems to be good. Here they are for comparison on the car, brake off then brakes on. I do prefer the hazy yellow for the license plates ha... I just want people to be able to see me, I was thinking about something that would send a visual pulse by blinking the LEDS rapidly when the brake is depressed. Just wanna make sure kids in SUVs see me ha.

Restored a mk1 Sprite for some dude once, gave the car to him, the same week he started messing with a push button starter, he ended up mixing things up so much that the battery reversed its polarity. Don’t even want to open up that car anymore [emoji25], shame it was a great car to drive tops off. Here’s an SU manual: http://libgen.io/book/index.php?md5=650D1EFFD49B448501385D3E7FFB0444 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Going down 4 screws in order to get a start is an indication that the float level is out of adjustment. Although you have set the parallel adjustment, the middle lever should be adjusted too. From the top portion above the float (not the lip, rather the plane that makes the edge) set the distance to close at 14mm, I do this by blowing air into the float needles, and adjusting the float till I hit the point, measure, and adjust. Once you have this established you should be able to get the tune back to being around that 2.5 screws down. We’re are you located, maybe there is someone around that can give a hand. [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There are 3 mounting points, with 4 pieces. Here they are painted after a test fit Them placed into the car, I’m running a 260Z the front mount might be a little different from pictures I’ve seen. I have to test and see if the dash fits, it should, just have to double check [emoji85]

Whaddya mean it’s the worst one you’ve seen?! I spent so much time on this [emoji12] Have to strip paint off the front end, and prep for some paint, I guess I should try to find a 260Z grill, this one looks all jacked up, I think it’s a late 240Z model, but looks super tweaked.

Fixed my dash, a lot of stuff to get this car back up and running. Have to paint it next

Howdy, Anyone going to be in Monterey in Aug 22-26 for Monterey Car week // Historics at Laguna Seca? I’ll be working at Laguna on the 22, and probably will be at the track over the weekend, if anyone wanted to meet up and go for a cruise. It’s also supposed to be all about Nissan this year? :)

So what’s the status? it seems that you needed to align the jet, and then set the float level... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I’m in the processing of building out a mirror website for datsunzgarage, a lot of information on that site. I have the engine page up, https://specterbyte.com/datsunzgarage/engine.html Should be a couple days, I think I found a way to get the rest of the site up.

the mounting might be a little different from when Derek installed his, I've noticed some of the older guides have a different designed gen2 mini. I'm currently in the works of installing a newly bought gen2 mini in my 260z, I made a bracket yesterday, I still need to test the fit of it, and finish an upper bracket. I welded some 1" bars that are ~1/4" thick, I had to modify the top bracket to fit correctly, but can't run grinders this late, have to be courteous to the neighbors ha.

Okay you see all those terminal ends that are connecting with spade connectors. You should replace all the exposed ones with shielded ones. When these connectors have oxidization on them they are gonna have increased resistance and increased heat through the wire. You’re goal on anything electrical you touch is to clean it, and prevent it from getting oxidized. There is a common modification that people do to ensure that the starter is getting enough power to the stator which is to wire a relay into the system, so that there is direct power present. I’ve used ZX coils on old mini coopers for testing purposes, it was running fine, I believe Lucas coils are designed to run with no ballast resistor, it might say on the coil itself. There is no need for reverse polarity on the coil, typically for British reverse polarity cars they can be changed to standard ground on chassis. There’s a 9pin connection mod that you can do that would help reduce the load to the combo switch, I would need to find more information about this. If you need protected space connectors / round connectors, vintageconnections.com has some high quality stuff. That and super 33 tape + heat shrink should be helpful too. :) I think you might want to try that relay mod, research a bit, http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html If you do the relay mod, try to secure it somewhere. Chances are if your ignition system is changed to a points style, there’s a transistorized ignition board inside the passenger kick spaces which has been bypassed, I used this space for relays in my 260z, I made a bracket to add more relays, ended up with headlights, fuel pump, eletrical fans, all having relays down there. 260z are interesting cars, unfortunately they were also guinea pigs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I believe you will need to get a front mounted airflow measurement tool, measuring from where you are is after the balance tube. But I could be wrong, I would want someone else to double triple confirm. Was there a filter in the engine compartment? There are two additional filters at the float chamber of the SU carb, for me it was throwing off my float measurements, and causing my stalling issues, after cleaning them out, I was able to get a good tune. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Replace that fuel filter, and at the barb of where the hose from The fuel rail goes into the float bowl, there’s a filter located inside the barb, I would take those out and make sure they are clean as well if the issue persists after that filter change. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile